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Thanks for pointing out the error I made with that link. You are of course correct in that the tool is in fact the EBC CT020 (not the 21) . Just for the record I've fixed the link in the original post. The one I have....

Get something that supports charging/maintaining of lead-acid (OE battery) and lithium batteries.

Friend took pity on my and volunteered to run down with me to pick it up today versus waiting until Saturday when my daughter was available. 100-ish mile drive back went off without a hitch. Noticed a couple of little niggles like a shimmy at 56-58MPH and the rear window in the convertible top is pretty cloudy. Other than that, ran like a watch and the dash reported a hair over 20MPG average which is WAY better than I expected. I'll have my mechanic check the balance on the tires and I need to put some new wiper blades on it, but other than that it's gas it up (Owwww....I put $70 worth of mid-grade in it...) and drive it!

Comedy gold 😁. Congrats on your new bike!!

Congrats on the Corvette. This gen can be had for reasonable money, and the thrill is still there. Enjoy!

There was no thread-locker on the nut when I removed it. The bike had the shifter shaft recall done by the dealer before I took possession. Dealer monkeys couldn't be bothered doing it right I guess. I also used blue.

Thanks for your thoughts

Hopefully the weather if favorable for your first ride of the year.

Yes little things. Like being able to get out of bed in the morning without too much pain, and be able to stand long enough in front of the sink to brush your teeth...

Thanks I'm going to try to ride Saturday (for the first time since last November!) and will then try to evaluate for Gronk AND what, based on my bleary recollection, is abnormally load and unusual clutch activation noise when idling. However, being in my shop albeit with the 5.5 foot side door and 3 foot service door open, as well as 3 fans, it could be this possibly louder operational noise is accentuated indoors. Some Wet Cutches may be relatively noisy, but Dry Clutches can be expectations so with more of ringing noise as the metal drive plates dance between the hub and basket grooves and slots. Some riders, particularly Ducatista, love the sound of their tinkling dry clutches, which tend to get grabby when hot.

Without trying to sound too corny, as I get older I find that its the simple things that put a smile on my face. A morning ride in the sunshine with the wind in my face and I am good to go.

You can check codes in its current state, but realize that anything not connected currently OR not connected when the key was last turned on could set a code, especially if the engine is cranked over. Some sensors require engine revolution before the ECM checks to see if they are connected - others will trip a MIL when key is turned on. you’ll probably see a code 30,’which is for the bike going over, and/or one for engine stall (19 maybe?). They could have been what tripped your MIL originally This really isn’t a good time to troubleshoot your running issue via a code reader. It IS important to CLEAR the codes when everything is back together and before the bike is started. Then if something sets you’ll have a clear path toward troubleshooting the issue. (Meaning, starting from a base line with no codes stored). Or do it just after getting it running if you forget Don’t ever give it gas when starting. Hands off the throttle. Hold the start button in for a longer crank time until it catches. The only exception to this rule is if it’s flooded. Make sure you replace the spark plugs and the battery voltage is 12.7 or greater during this repair session. Your battery could be on the edge as well, if not taken care of - just replace it and buy a Yuasa not some eBay/amazon junk. as Betoney mentioned - replace the clutch cable and pivot. Get it back together with the valves in spec and then see how it goes. You’ve got too many things going on currently and you need to get back to baseline -Skip

Ah, I somehow missed the fact that you're on the other end of the planet from me! And many thanks for the clue for obtaining the EBC tool. I had no idea such a thing existed. Yes, I know you can make your own... but I really like that tool a lot better. The Aussie Amazon link is to the EBC CT021 tool, which seems to fit a buncha Hondas, but what is in the application guide for our machines, and in the photo, is the EBC CT020 tool. I've ordered one (under $30 USD), even though I don't really have plans to monkey with the clutch for a good long time. I've always felt that special tools like this should be considered part of the bike. To reiterate the answers to an earlier question, the GRONK! happens in motion under light load and at low speed, and is an unpleasant noise/vibration caused by worn rubber cushions in the clutch basket. The GRONK! is an COMPLETELY separate issue from clutch rattle/noise. If you're not in motion, you're not GRONK!-ing. All wet clutch motorcycles have some degree of clutch rattle at idle that improves when you pull the clutch lever (and don't overlook noise from the clutch lever itself rattling; this can be significant, but a finger on the clutch lever will soon settle the question). Fortunately, both conditions appear to be entirely harmless and can be ignored if you like. The GRONK! can be eliminated with fresh cushions, either through arts and crafts or via an entire new clutch basket. Clutch rattle can be improved with new parts, but does not really ever go away entirely. It's in the nature of wet clutches.

And it is the Fastest Red! How do you handle the in and out? Do the rag tops have over-door grab handles? My experience is once you're in there's adequate room. Like being in a cockpit, which is intentional. Leather seats though are slippery during had charging.

BIG congrats on the Vette, you got a great deal on a pristine like classic. I too am starting to enjoy the fruits of my hard labor and sacrifices in life.......bring on the toys!!!!

Congrats, I am also a former Strom 650 owner and 2 previous 1000's.......the Tracer is so much faster and more fun to ride. ENJOY!!!

I love riding in that area, so many good roads and then a quick bridge crossing over into WV.

ANZAC day here today followed by a run in the country while blessed with some glorious weather. Throw in some induction roaring and it doesn't get any better. 😁 Really appreciating the difference my recent de-gronking of the clutch makes to the feel of the bike.

Ok then this bit of information opens up a whole different line of troubleshooting. The gas tank or spark plugs don't need to be installed to power up the bike (not sure if fuel pump disconnected will throw a code?). As long as the battery is connected and ECU is plugged in you should be able to use the code reader. I suppose you could always connect the fuel tank connections and lay the tank on a towel. Resident tech guru @skipperT might offer more suggestions or correct my assumptions.

Just picked up my new 2024 tracer today, shaped from a vstrom 650. Man does this bike have a lot of features to learn

Yes the check engine light came on a day after the latest crash. I've bought a Yamaha code reader, but since the bike is still apart I haven't been able to test it. Does the bike need to be fully assembled to view the codes? Is there any danger if I hookup the battery with the gas tank / spark plugs out and just check the electronics?

Hear, hear! Couldn't have said it better myself.

If the bolt is missing from the clutch lever I can understand why it might not shift correctly as the clutch engagement would obviously be affected. If it were me, I would replace the lever bolt and get the clutch working correctly before making any other troubleshooting guesses or paying a mechanic to run a diagnosis. Did the stalling issues happen to coincide with the missing lever bolt? Is there a check engine light or any error codes on the display? When I have brought my bike to the shop in the past I have removed all panels to save them time and potential damage (I load it in my truck) but I always leave the tank and seat installed in case they need to ride it around the parking lot to check operation.

Yep, typical. It’s normal for the exhaust valves to get tight, sometimes VERY tight. If you don’t have confidence in adjusting them, call your local shop/person and see if they would be willing to work on it to finish the job. I’d recommend putting the valve cover back on and spark plugs installed loosely to keep out moisture, debris etc. Most shops probably get 2-4 hours for a valve adjustment. I’m not including fluids or anything else in that estimate. -Skip

Hello everyone, I've recently attempted my first valve clearance check on my 2019 Tracer 900, but I'm concerned about the results. Despite being new to such detailed mechanical tasks, I ensured to double-check my measurements, and they consistently indicate that the exhaust valve clearance is approximately 0.11mm, which is considerably below the specified range of 0.26-0.30mm. Is it common for the exhaust valves to be this far out of spec? Here's some background on the bike: Purchased in 2021, currently around 32,000 miles. Regular maintenance (oil+filter, chain+sprockets, new air filter) has been kept up. The bike has been dropped twice at low speeds with protective crash cages. Recently, the engine began stalling in the morning unless I kept revving it, and sometimes stalled even when the clutch was engaged or throttle applied. After replacing the front tire, and changing nothing else, these issues seemed to worsen, limiting the bike's speed to about 40mph. The gear shifts appear normal on the display but don't seem to engage properly. Additionally, I noticed the plastic housing at the end of the clutch cable is worn, and the bolt securing the clutch lever is missing. Considering these issues, I'm contemplating whether to have a professional mechanic finish the valve adjustment and check other potential problems. Can I bring the bike to a shop without reinstalling the fairings, gas tank, and air filter to potentially reduce the cost? What are typical charges for such services? Thank you for your insights!