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  1. 4 points
    Add the mother of all chain adjusters. Wow. That’s all I can say. Pricy, but takes “all” the guess work out of rear wheel alignment and has precise click adjustments. Selling my Gilles Tooling adjusters to anyone on the forum (US only please) for $50 plus shipping. Just PM me and we can go from there. They are mint and work great. Way way better than the stock crap Yamaha provides.
  2. 4 points
    Thank you, betoney. I understand where you are coming from with these comments, but to be entirely truthful I have no interest whatsoever in being a 'more aggressive rider', 'attacking corners', etc. I don't exactly potter along as it is - why, only last week I got into fifth gear on a long downhill run, and later saw triple digits - 250 - on the display screen: it was 2.50pm.
  3. 3 points
    The route was ambitious and the daylight was ending, so we cut it short to just 401.1 miles on the odometer (405.1 according to the gps). The pic shows the roads we were scouting. Earlier this year a Harley rider in Proctorville had told us that he'll never ride 775 again, there are just too many curves on that road. He was half right. He should stay off that road and leave it to us. Lunch at the Mothman and Urban Legends Bar and Grille (the 'e' on the end makes it classy 😉 ) was burgers and sandwiches - not fancy, but good.
  4. 3 points
    I’ve always heard great things about Rocky Mountain ATV, although I haven’t purchased from them personally. A quick check shows about $365 for a pair of PR5s delivered to my door in Houston, which seems about right. I paid $407 out the door for my last pair mounted & balanced at my favorite local shop I like to support. I think you’ll really like the Michelins, by the way. I’ve run PR4s and now PR5s on my 2015 FJ, and been very pleased with the performance & wear ratio.
  5. 3 points
    Renewing the brake fluid is a top tip and something which is often ignored. Brake fluid is hydroscopic and absorbs moisture from the air over time. Changing every 24 months is deffo worthwhile and isn't a difficult job. Changing even more frequently than that at say 12 months interval is also worthwhile as it maintains 100% braking effiency. I do this. Obtain a syringe, something like this use that to remove as much brake fluid as possible from both the front and rear master cylinder reservoirs. Then, get a very simple one-man-bleeder, something like this - top up the BF res' to the max, then use the one-man-bleeder to bleed through the topped up and keep topping it up as you bleed the old fluid until enough has passed through to replace the original brake fluid with lovely fresh DOT4. DO NOT allow the BF res' level to drop below the minimum level as you risk drawing air into the system which will only need to be bleed out again. Keep topping up. Take your time, use plenty rags to protect from any spills as brake fluid will damage painted surfaces. You MUST also wear gloves and eye protection as you really really don't want to get brake fulid in your eye(s). Clean up any spills on the bike with water. If this scares you. Get your local friendly motorcycle mechanic to do it. Never try and save money on brakes as that's a fools errand. As for brake pads. I've used both SBS and Brembo with good results. Sintered pads work better but can cause brake discs to wear faster depending on your use? Brake discs are consumables though so expect they will need replaced at higher mileages. The fact you care about your brakes is a good thing which I share and support. Happy stopping.
  6. 3 points
    @daboo and @betony : So true about bikes with less horsepower. (I was also looking at getting the GS-911 wireless when I get close to the 6k service interval). Raw horsepower is for the straights. I went on a group ride in the mountains today with a group of mixed riders. They were on a Ninja 300, 2x FZ-07's an MT-10, a Ninja 650, CBR600RR and a CBR500. The fastest rider? Yeah, it was the guy on the Ninja 300 who also happens to run a lot of track days. I've ridden with them before and I'm middle of pack on the FJ-09 and I actually expected to be quite a bit slower on the S1000RR (and I was, at the beginning of the day). I put it in Rain mode this morning on the way up to north Georgia because of wet roads, and I completely forgot about it. Rain mode only gives about 60% power at full throttle (more with the "coding plug" installed that I JUST read about... and the coding plug IS installed. It lets me select "Race" and "Slick" modes...). So THAT'S what the red capped bit plugged in under the seat is. In any case, I didn't feel that I ever needed more power. The "chilling and taking it easy today" vibe of the entire group got quietly set to the side after lunch when the roads dried and the sun was out. See exhibit below with Left and Right "Max" lean angle indicator. We had just a little bit of fun. Yes, there's a "Current lean angle" that's top middle and a "Current Braking Force" that shows up next to the bar that you can see for "Max Braking Force." These guys aren't much for heavy brakes or heavy gas, which I appreciate.
  7. 3 points
    I don't agree that it's a sales gimmick. It's not there to save you time. I drive a car with a DSG gearbox (Direkt-Schalt-Getriebe) and a racing car with Geartronics pneumatic operated paddle shift, both of which allow similar open and/or full throttle clutchless up and down gear shifts in a few milliseconds. One of the advantages is you keep both hands on the steering wheel. I find that the quickshifter allows more control over the bike because you don't move your hands to upshift, just your left foot a little. If you're accelerating hard, maybe overtaking, crossing the central white line and catseyes maybe, whatever, you have less to do, have better contact with the bars and therefore more control. I like the QS, wish it downshifted too sometimes, but actually when you are downshifting, your weight is more on the heel/palms of your hands anyway and your fingers are un-weighted and free to waggle the lever and twist the throttle, whereas while upshifting and accelerating, your fingers are busy stopping you falling off the back of the bike. Of course we all hang on with our knees too!
  8. 3 points
    Finally gonna get my front end sorted out. Local independent shop ordered Ktech piston kit and springs today. Can't wait. They'll get it done before we leave for Idaho the 5th. Went back and forth for months on several options. Springs only Andreani Cartridges Ktech Cartridges Stoltech Moto drop in cartridge Pattonme Racetech gold valves
  9. 3 points
    Just about to see what I can achieve on my brand new Tracer GT using the factory adjusters. Looking on my computer records, I found the following saved information. I can't remember where it came from so my apologies and thanks to the original author who has done a great job clarifying the dark art of suspension set-up. I have also included recommended sag figures in which you will see there is little absolute agreement despite them coming from various credible sources. They do offer a guide though and are all in the same general area. Hope it is some help. SUSPENSION SETTINGS Static Sag Recommendations from various sources OHLINS SOURCE 1 Without rider With rider Rear 5-10mm 35-40mm Front 25-30mm 35-48mm OHLINS SOURCE 2 Without rider With rider Rear 10-20mm 25-40mm Front 15-30mm 35-50mm SBK SCHOOL ROAD Without rider With rider Rear 15-20mm 30-40mm Front 30-40mm 35-55mm SBK SCHOOL RACE Without rider With rider Rear 5-10mm 20-25mm Front 12-25mm 25-35mm AUS SBK SCHOOL Without rider With rider Rear 0-10mm 25-35mm Front 20-30mm 25-35mm • Preload (Spring tension, based on your weight) • Damping (speed the spring squashes and returns to normal ) o Compression (advanced damping control, speed the spring squashes) o Rebound (advanced damping control, speed the spring returns to normal after been squashed) Note that compression and rebound are part of damping. After I had established what I can adjust on my bike and how to adjust it, I got a pen and paper and wrote down my bikes current settings so that I can return the bike to it if I make a mess of things. On my bike, this meant counting “clicks” as I turned the screws for the compression and rebound clockwise or anti-clockwise. Preload is easier to note and record as you can see what “notch” the rear spring is on and what “ring” the front is on. The manufacturer has spent a lot of time and money on research and development and they have a financial incentive to ensure that my bike handles well, therefore the manufacturers recommended suspension settings for your bike will not be that bad. Compare what your current settings are for your bike against the manufacturers setting. If they are different, and you think your bike could handle better, have a go at setting your bike to manufacturers recommended settings. You should be able to fiddle with your suspension and bring it back to the settings recommended by the manufacturer or your original setting before you go any further. Do not read any further unless you are competent with the above and acknowledge that this whole article is purely for information only. Please do not fiddle with your bike, then injure yourself and then blame me. ________________________________________ DAY 2 - SET UP BIKE TO YOUR WEIGHT (PRELOAD) To set up your bike you will require the proper tools as recommended in your bikes handbook, usually a long screw driver, spanner for the front and a funny looking tool for the rear preload and tape measure!!. You will need patience and time. It is best to set the bike up where you are most likely to use it i.e. on the roads or race track.. Ensure your bike is in good working condition, including replacing dodgy fork seals, lubricating linkage, and changing fork or shock oil and you have correct tyre pressure. Twiddling with setting randomly will not get you far. You suspension can be broken down to the following • Front wheel o Preload o Damping Compression o Damping Rebound • Rear Wheel o Preload o Damping Compression o Damping Rebound If your bike does not have some of these setting then you will have to compromise on the setting of your bike or buy aftermarket suspension if necessary. You really should set up your bike in the right order. It is best to start with the preloads, front and rear as this is based on your weight and relatively easy to set up, then work your way down. Rear Preload Whatever your weight, when you sit on the bike, you want the bike to squat just a little bit (about 30mm) but not too much. You want to ensure that the bulk of your rear suspension travel is available for when you actually ride the bike as opposed to supporting your heavy frame. At the same time you should have a little bit of sag left. If the bike drops too much then increase preload and if you are very light and the bike barely moves under your weight, then soften the preload. Below is a more detailed explanation. This is easy to set up but can be a bit confusing so just follow the steps one at a time. Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Step 1: First find the fully UNLOADED length of your rear suspension. Put your bike on its centre stand. If you do not have a centre stand find a means of lifting the rear wheel up under the engine so that there is no weight (including the weight of the bike) on the rear axle and wheel. Measure the distance between the rear axle and a fixed point directly above like a bolt or mark. Note this measure measurement. Do not use a rear wheel bike stand as there is still the weight of the bike on the swing arm. Step 2: Find the NORMAL length of you rear suspension. This is amount the suspension drops under the weigh of the bike alone without the rider. Put the bike on level ground and bounce it up and down to free any stickiness. Measure between the same two points as above, i.e. the rear axle and the fixed point directly above. Step 3: Find the fully LOADED length of your rear suspension. This is the length of the suspension with the rear wheel on level ground and the rider seated on it in his normal riding position in full biking garb. First bounce up and down on the seat to loosen the suspension then get into your normal riding position with all weight on the bike and both feet on the bike. To prevent yourself from falling of (if you have not already) lean the bike against a wall and get your mate to measure between the same two points as above i.e. rear axle and the fixed point directly above. Next thing is to understand a couple of buzz words. “Static sag” and “Rider sag”. RIDER SAG is the difference steps 1 and 3. This is the amount the bike drops when your heavy arse sits on the bike. STATIC SAG is the difference between step 1 and step 2. It is how much the bikes weight acts on the rear suspension or how much you can lift the bike rear without the rider on it before it tops out. A top racing suspension company suggest that rear wheel rider sag should be around 30-40mm and static sag should be around 5-10mm. However this many vary depending on your bike and manufacturer. The more rider sag you have, the softer the bike suspension will be. I personally use 35mm for road and a few track days use. Therefore if your rider sag is less than 30 mm then your preload is too hard, if it is more than 40 mm, then it is a bit soft. Once you have set your rider sag as close as possible to 30-40 mm, next check your static sag. If you have more than 10mm then you may need stiffer springs. If however, if your static sag is less than 5mm or you have no static sag then your springs may be too hard for your weight. If you have to compromise then try to have at least a bit of Static sag in order to stop the bike from topping out. Note that books, videos, media and pub acquaintances will all have different opinions on the naming and figures quoted above (and below). I find that I get fewer complaints with the current labelling system than I would with other labelling systems. Avoid being obsessed with numbers and naming systems. I will try to explain the underlying principles of setting up your own bike. There are too many scenarios and permutations surrounding the effects of tweaking each setting that it would take me forever to cover them all. Therefore I will only touch on a few of the more common effects. Front Preload some people set the front suspension based on rider sag and static sag. This is especially useful in determining if you need softer or stiffer springs. Use the same system as above to determine Rider sag (35-48mm) and Static sag (25-30mm). However I prefer the below method to optimise my current original front forks. You want your bike to use as much front suspension "travel" as possible without "bottoming out" (no more travel) even in extreme conditions. So lets establish how much suspension travel you are currently using. Wrap cable ties around the smooth part (stanchion) of front forks near the rubber seal to the forks. Ensure that it does not scratch the stanchion and it is not too tight as to damage the rubber seals. With the cable ties in place ride your bike as normal using as many riding conditions (corners, braking, accelerating, wheelies and stopples) that you are likely to meet. Then increase or decrease your preload until the cable tie stops about 10 mm before “bottoming out”. Reducing preload should give you more travel. If the forks bottoms out, reset the cable ties and increase preload until the cable tie stops around 10mm above the limit. You should always leave about 10mm travel for emergencies like slamming into uncharted potholes. Done ________________________________________ DAY 3 - FRONT DAMPING The damping, both rebound and compression are best adjusted after riding your bike and feeling how it handles to you. You cannot use your mate’s settings. The reason why there is so much debate and controversy regarding suspension set up is because it is a personal experience and depends on how and where you ride your motorcycle. Some people, media and websites will charge or tell you what they think is best for you whilst amongst top racers it is a closely guarded secret. You have to find your own settings that you are comfortable with and take notes as you experiment with different settings. tyre profiles Setting the right amount of damping depends on the type of bike, how you ride the bike of bike, and shape and pressure of tyres you use. Also it depends on your riding style and how much suspension travel you want at any particular moment. This article will try to explain what to look out for and how to tweak it. If you can adjust the damping but cannot adjust the rebound and compression separately, then you will have to find a compromise between the two for your bike. If you run out of adjustment, then depending on if the damping, either rebound or compression, is too slow or too fast then you may need to change the damping oil to thinner or thicker suspension oil relatively. Note that your suspension will handle differently under different conditions i.e. high or low speed, wet or dry conditions, therefore experiment with setting up your bike under the conditions you would like to use them. To start with, set your bike damping rebound and compression to your manufacturers or your preferred setting. I do not know the exact terminology used in your manufacturers owners manual but note that Soft damping = little damping = decreased damping Hard damping = excessive damping = increased damping Nose Up Nose down Front Compression You need your front compression under braking and when riding over uneven humps. You want your front suspension to compress slowly and controlled when you break. As your bike “nose dives” under braking, it transfers more weight over the front wheel. This helps slow the bike quicker. If the front suspension compresses too quickly (too soft) you risk the suspension bottoming out and then your bike will feel vague and since it nose dives too quickly the back wheel may loose contact with the road and move sideways. On the other hand when compression damping is too high the suspension can't react quickly enough to compress over bumps and will skip and chatter. You will have an uncomfortable ride and your braking is compromised, especially in the wet. Another important aspect of front compression is when you brake just before a turn. As you brake before the corner, the bike will naturally “nose dive”, this will shorten the wheel base and alter the geometry of the bike making the bike turn quicker into the corner. It is important that your bike compresses predictably and safely in a corner/turn. SOFT: If your compression is too soft, your bike will nose dive too quickly, then as you turn into the corner, the bike will collapse into it and you end up having to compensate. HARD: On the other hand if you have too much front compression damping, do not get enough nose dive and the bike will be reluctant to turn and may drift wide on entry to the corner. Go for a ride on your bike and try braking and turning into corners at different speeds. This will cause a bit of nose dive so try different setting. If your bike bottoms out, increase the front preload. See preload notes above. Keep notes. Front Rebound Front rebound damping is to control the rate the bike “sits up” after the front suspension has been compressed i.e. from nose down position. If it is too soft, the front end will pop up too quickly after any situation causing the front suspension to compress e.g. braking or cornering causing the bike to "see-saw". This may result in lack of traction If rebound damping is too high you may have lack of “feedback” and in extreme cases where the suspension can't react quickly enough to extend again it will pump down until it bottoms out which is simply dangerous, An alternative to manufacturers setting for front rebound is to place your bike on level ground and have your mate or rear wheel stand support the back of the bike. Press hard on the top of the yoke without pressing the brakes and let go. The suspension should rebound to its original position within a second. If it takes more than a second then you need softer rebound but if it takes less than a second or it rebounds past its original position then you should make your rebound harder. This method may work but really it is too simplistic for real world riding. One critical area where you want your front rebound to work well is through them corners and turns. As you fly down the road and brake before or into the corner, the front suspension compresses, then as you let go of the brakes, the front wheel will rebound fully. You do not want your front end to sit up too quickly especially mid corner. It does not matter whether you brake before the turn but this is more critical if you brake into the turn. SOFT: If it rebounds too quickly in the corner your bike will sit up very quickly creating a longer wheel base. The front wheel “shooting” out also causes the bike to drift wide or a feeling of the front end “washing out” If this happens, increase (harden) your rebound to slow the rate the front wheel rebounds. HARD: On the other hand if the rebound is too hard, when you let go of the brakes and on to the throttle in a corner, because the wheel is compressed for longer you will have a shorter wheel base for longer. This may cause the bike to feel wooden in the corner and turn too quickly. Soften her up. To set up your front rebound damping you are going to have to go through a few corners a few times and it is best that you have sorted out the preload and front compression first. Basically you want to be able to 1. brake hard either before the turn or up to the apex of the turn, (whichever suits you) 2. let go of the brakes 3. get on to the throttle without the bike “see-sawing” i.e. sit up or dive by adjusting only the rebound damping only (remember that we have sorted the compression so don’t mess it up.) NOTES No advanced damping control if you cannot adjust the rebound and compression separately but you can adjust the damping, then you will have to go for a compromise. Since most accidents happen in a turn, then I will suggest that you set it up for cornering. Try to get the bike to enter and exit a corner with minimal rocking or seesawing to the front end. These setting should be ok for bumpy tarmac. Keep a record Keep a note of the settings you are using as well as the make and pressure of your tyres. Different tyres shapes, sizes and pressure can affect your readings and therefore you may want to keep a record of all your setting especially if you are a track addict or racer. Also keep a note of the weather and cooler temperature will thicken the oil in your forks while on a hotter day, your fork oil may thin a bit. You do not want to go through all this again Counting Clicks If your bike uses clicks to adjust damping, and you want to adjust your damping settings, do not simply turn it a few clicks till you think you have the right new settings. Fully count the clicks in to ensure you were on the right old settings then count it out to the right new settings. Example you think your front compression is on 5 clicks out and you want to try 7 clicks out. Do not simply turn it 2 clicks out. Count the 5 click in, and then count the 7 clicks out. Set Up Do not adjust more than one setting at a time unless it is to a previously recorded set up as you will not know which setting cause the most effect. I commute to work and I used to make one small (a click) adjustment a day. Sometimes I would leave it for a week because the conditions where not right to feel the new settings in action. On the track, I would suggest one setting change per session, minimum. Altering Bike Geometry You can alter your bikes geometry by sliding your front forks up through your front yoke.. i.e. your forks will stick up through the yoke a bit more than standard thereby causing your bike to have a more nose down bias. This makes the bike turn in faster, it doesn't increase the corner speed and you will loose ground clearance I will not recommend moving your front forks more than 5 mm ________________________________________ DAY 4 - REAR DAMPING Kick Up Squatting Once you are done with the preload and front wheel damping let move onto the rear wheel. You can set it based on comfort and uneven road using the same methods as you would with the front wheel. Also you could try to do what’s called: Suspension Balance Take the bike off its stand onto level ground and stand next to it. While holding your motorcycle upright, put one foot on the foot peg next to you and press hard on it. The front and rear of the bike should squash down and raise at the same rate. If not adjust rear damping compression and rebound to compensate Now you have a comfortable bike with adequate suspension balance. Now let’s fine tune it a bit. Again there are no tricks to setting up your rear wheel suspension, you have to understand what causes your rear suspension to work. Since rebound occurs after compression we will deal with compression first. Rear Compression Like with the front wheel; if your rear compression is too hard you will have an uncomfortable ride because the rear wheel simply bounces off bumps and ripples in the road also giving a vague “feel”. Conversely, if it is too soft, you may get excessive “squatting” under heavy acceleration causing the bike to feel lethargic or even “bottoming out” on those rough roads. When you accelerate, you need a bit of rear end squatting to give the tyres a chance to get some traction and absorb excessive power to the back wheel. However, it is that squatting action under heavy acceleration that can cause problems when coming out of corners. SOFT: Let’s imagine that you are exiting a corner on your motorcycle, and the bike is leant over and you start to accelerate smartly. If the compression damping is too soft, you will get too much rear end “squatting” causing a “nose up” situation. This will cause your bike to drift wide on exit of the corner. This is not the same as a too much of front compression damping which causes the bike to drift wide on entry to the corner. HARD: On the other hand if your rear compression damping is too hard, you will not get enough “squatting” and therefore may not get enough traction. This will cause a bit of rear wheel spin, or the rear wheel suddenly “kicking up”. You can imagine what can happen in extreme circumstances. To set your rear compression damping up properly, it is best to have the front end sorted out first. That way you know you that your entry into the corner is as smooth as possible. Then you want to be able to put on the gas as you exit the corner and your bike should hold its line and inspire confidence. Rear Rebound Nearly the end of this setting up drivel. You have exited the corner and the bike is now flying forward in a straight line. At this point you want the rear rebound damping to keep the rear wheel in contact with the road, thereby giving you maximum traction SOFT: However if it is a long corner then your rear rebound will come into play mid-corner. If your rear wheel kicks up too quickly, it will unsettle the chassis of the bike making it “wallow” and “lurch” mid corner. A lot of people wrongly try to cure mid comer “wallowing” by increasing rear preload. This may "stiffen" the rear end but you may loose a bit of suspension travel. The cure is to increase (harden) rear rebound. HARD: However if your rear suspension is too hard, your back wheel will not sit up quick enough. This will cause you the have the back end squatting causing a “nose up “situation for longer. This may cause you to drift wide similar to the effects of soft compression. Also since the rear shock does not extend quick enough, you may get a feeling of vagueness or loss of traction If you have reached this point and found out that your original set up was the best then oops sorry. At least you have a few more buzz words to drop in the pub with other bike mates. ________________________________________ SUMMARY First get your owner manual out and familiarise and compare your current suspension settings with the recommended settings in the manufactures hand book. Still not satisfied? Then set-up your preload, front and rear, so that you can use as much suspension travel as possible when riding your bike. This is based on your weight, so if your weight fluctuates then keep an eye on it. Next adjust your damping so that your suspension does not compress or rebound too fast or too slow to upset the bike and be uncomfortable. I believe that if you can get your bike suspension set up for cornering then it should be OK on a straight line. 1 - Front compression This is when you want your front compression to control the "nose down" effects of braking so it turns in to corner properly 2 - Front rebound You have let go of brakes, adjust front rebound so that the front forks extend at a controlled rate allowing you to keep your line. 3 - Rear Compression You want the rear end to squat a bit as you apply the power. Make sure that the rear rebound setting keeps the rear wheel in contact with the road. Note: this image is only for illustration only. Your braking, turning and exit points and lines may vary, especially in the wet. CONCLUSION The point of this article is to educate you on how your suspension works so you can attempt to sort it out yourself. You should be able to feel the bike through the handle bars and the bike seat and be brave enough to note down the current settings and have a go at altering it to suit yourself. I found that it is difficult to set up the bike for all condition. I recently changed my front brake pads and they were biting harder which made the bike nose down quicker. As summer approaches, I like to ride a bit faster. My weight is fluctuating. All these scenarios have caused me to change my setup. Top racers alter their setup at every track. However if you are not competent with DIY, remember that if it isn't broke, don't fix it
  10. 3 points
    I was able to fire it up last night. There weren't any scary crunching noises and it ran okay, so I synced the throttle bodies. Alas, my idea to reuse the right side crankcase cover gasket was a bad one, because now it leaks like an old Harley. I'm trying to decide if I want to drive up to the Yamaha dealer for a new one, or just use some gasket maker.
  11. 2 points
    The factory heated grips and Heat Demons produce enough heat to use with Grip Puppies. I haven't tested them per Great White North but have used them down to high 30s ( ~4 C).
  12. 2 points
    Nice @betoney! I have a full set of Galfer lines that have been sitting quietly on the shelf for over a year... maybe this will motivate me to finally get my hands dirty and install them. I’ve heard stories of it being a complex job, but actually looking at the bike it doesn’t seem like it should be that big of a deal. I guess we’ll both find out soon enough.
  13. 2 points
    Not true. And unless you’ve pulled apart multiple engines that have used ( Medrx) / Ringfree (which I have) versus no fuel additive, I don’t believe you have enough data to back that up. @FJ29ER - formerly known as Ringfree, and also ringfree plus, medrx is a fuel treatment combined with fuel stabilizer that removes carbon buildup. It does what it says it does, although if you can find Ringfree plus, it’s the old formula (renamed). Was originally developed by Yamaha for treating carbon buildup on outboard engines, (along with combustion chamber cleaner) it works on any internal combustion engine. You can use it in 2 different doses, shock treating or constant treating. You do need to replace spark plugs and change the engine oil after a shock treatment (not constant treat) because the carbon breaks down and can affect the heat range and condition of the spark plug, and it can dump heavy carbon deposits in the engine oil (after a shock treat) IME crossplane engine valve lash get tight. I’ve seen it on many cp3’s, and several super 10’s. Yet to do a cp2 fz07, so jury is still out on that one. imho Carbon buildup causes valve lash to get LOOSE, not tight, because it gets between the valve seat and the valve which in turn causes the valve to be further down in the cylinder head (not tighter again IME) as opposed to sucking further INTO the cylinder head when closed, which would cause tighter valve lash. where the service writer lead you astray, was by stating that if you use medrx, your valve lash will be good, which IMO Is a bogus statement. There’s no guarantees for that, all engines wear differently. medrx will however decrease and prevent carbon buildup on piston crowns, rings, valve stems and seats, and inside the throttle bodies and intake tract. however, there’s also no substitute for running good quality, 91 or better name brand gas as Cruizin mentioned. It burns cleaner and leaves fewer deposits behind. Ethanol free fuel is generally thought to be better, but harder to find in some areas. -Skip
  14. 2 points
    Bleed, Vesrah pads, that's it IMO.
  15. 2 points
    ‘Need’ is such a vague term, isn’t it? But I 100% concur: Any aftermarket shock upgrade will help significantly, especially if you’re outside of the weight range that the stock spring rate would support.
  16. 2 points
    Sounds like you may need to adjust the pins. "If your Pinlock® lens does not seal all the way around the inside of your visor, the adjustment of your pins might help you solve this...." When do I need to adjust the Pinlock® pins? | Pinlock ← Back to FAQ If your Pinlock® lens does not seal all the way around the...
  17. 2 points
    @duhg - I HATE reading stories of deer strikes. I am forever wary after hitting one 3 years ago and totaling my bike. I was fortunate to be able to walk away. Glad you are ok.
  18. 2 points
    I think you mean to say that one man's seat is another man's poison...😎
  19. 2 points
    Thanks wordsmith! It's nothing too clever - I'm from Oklahoma, USA. Our state song is "Oklahoma" and there's a line in the song - "The waving wheat, it sure smells sweet". Waving the wheat is also a celebratory action when my alma mater scores a touchdown (Oklahoma State University) that the fans do at the game. Has nothing to do with motorcycles!
  20. 2 points
    Since my favorite helmet was discontinued (EXO-500 in 3X) recently decided to take a fling on a modular, the Scorpion AT-950. Scorpion's been dropping 3X from some models but still offer it in this model, has the inner sun visor I can't live without, liked the idea of the over-sized viewport, and... since I've had varying degrees of success with the Everclear shields also wanted to try pinlock. Have tried many different substances on shields and none ever worked long with my heavy breathing. Usually just end up opening the shield then dealing with water on both sides Got my chance to test in some heavy rain with the pinlock this past weekend and it worked well. A downside is that even the clear pinlock definitely limits light. It does come with warnings saying such and that they shouldn't be used at night. That probably won't stop me since it can be removed if necessary. I'm happy with the purchase.
  21. 2 points
    @alquimista - My FJ picked up a pretty strong vibration in the front starting around 90 mph (which equates almost exactly to your 145 kph) as my previous set of Michelin PR4 tires were nearing replacement time. My assumption was a balance problem, thinking that it had most likely thrown a wheel weight off somehow. Since I was planning to replace the tires anyway, I didn't put much effort into searching out the root cause... Fresh tires (mounted and balanced) cleared up the problem completely, and I've been fine for the 3,500 miles or so I have on this set of PR5s. What you're describing absolutely sounds like a wheel balance problem, and if it started when you mounted the fresh tire, that just further suggests it needed to be balanced.
  22. 2 points
    I did this one as well, best $20-30 upgrade you can make!
  23. 1 point
    Great. Ktech piston kit and springs.
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    The T31's I just changed out gave me 4500 miles which equaled the best mileage I have ever gotten from a rear. The only tire that has lasted that long for me in the past was a Road Smart 2. I just installed a set of S22,s and am looking forward to testing their longevity. You can't argue with the dollar to mile value with the Bridgestone tires when you are able to use the rebate and get both ends for less than $200.
  26. 1 point
    And avoid ethanol gas if you can. Gas station by my house has non ethanol 93 octane and it burns clean.
  27. 1 point
    The new tyre looks like the Michelin Road 5 - is it, and if so any comments please?
  28. 1 point
    I commute in B mode. I have found that it gives me noticeably better gas mileage than other modes. I have 50 miles of dead straight highway, so there's very little need for quicker acceleration, or more responsive throttle.
  29. 1 point
    I did not add verbal replies to the "formal" survey when I created it. I doubt Cruizin did either.
  30. 1 point
    Or if you're not a DIY-er and are happy to spend the cash AU$105 (US~$71) you could just get one of these German made devices........! Maybe this is what the shop guy was using and not just a pencil beam!?... I don't know. Looks like there's a couple of different versions with slightly different characteristics depending on what you need/want. Profi Laser Chain Alignment tool Adjustment / max. Deviation: <0.05% The description says... "Laser motorcycle chain & rear wheel alignment tool. Check chain and belt alignment with laser precision in seconds! Simply hold the Profi Laser C.A.T. against the rear sprocket and aim the laser along the drive chain. Helps minimise wear to chain and sprockets. Ideal tool for the end user and professionals alike"
  31. 1 point
    dazz - to answer your PM question, the following settings are on the job notes given to me: Rear shock upgrade: compression - 16 clicks out rebound - 8 clicks out rider sag 51mm. These may well change when Joe at Ride Dynamics does his final fettling and fine-tuning next week, but might be a useful starting-point for you as we are of near-identical weight. I'll let you know. But beware the added weight of those GT stripes...
  32. 1 point
    I do the same. I could not believe how much air I took out after my first ride on the bike when I got it. I thought I needed stainless steel lines right from the beginning but the bleeding made a big difference along with the HH pads.
  33. 1 point
    Sorry to hear the TPMS didn't work out, and your sheckles were returned. I too had issues configuring the settings on the Cyclops units I installed, but finally have them sorted. I prefer the bike-powered units so I don't have to mess with charging them. The "T" valves I installed also simplify use as you don't have to remove the sensor to add or release air. I think these are an outstanding addition to any bike, well worth the $$ and setup confusion to have such important info readily accessable. Could be lifesaving! And the "distraction" of having the display there will wear off after a while, until a flashing red led notifies you of a pressure drop!
  34. 1 point
    The fogging was bad enough yesterday that I cracked the shield open even though it was raining hard. My thought was that water running down the inside of the shield would wash off the fog. It didn't work.
  35. 1 point
    I had my T9 in for 600 mile service last week, dealer told me not to run engine in gear when lubing chain or it will flash a fault on dash. I told him I already had and all good, wheels turning at different speeds. They didn't know, I told him. I might try and change my habits tho.
  36. 1 point
    There is definitely not as many epic roads as Nor Cal, I mean how do you compete with that? But you will be right on the Oregon border and riding in Oregon is AWESOME!!!
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    Do it!! If I remember I'll give you a good heads up.
  39. 1 point
    Congrats on the new bike, @superfist... That's an outstanding choice. Oh, and happy birthday! (I'm only stalking just a little bit... )
  40. 1 point
    True, Yamaha already has the R1 for pure sport and the FJR for touring. A do-it-all "hybrid" type bike will always be a compromise for some riders. We are fortunate to have this model that is as versatile and crosses over to both sport and touring as well as it does. You can tear it up in mountain and canyon twisties and then load on the side bags and head out on a week-long road trip with the comfort of heated grips and cruise control (and STILL tear it up in mountain and canyon twisties). 😎
  41. 1 point
    Awesome and welcome! Fly'n'Buys are fun.
  42. 1 point
    With the 2WDW flash, mine defaults to A. It only sees B for heavy rain or snow. STD is pretty much useless now.
  43. 1 point
    I went with the Super Tenere pegs (and blinkers) and couldn't be happier. I'll probably add a cheaper option for the passenger pegs which don't get used as often.
  44. 1 point
    I have 2,000 miles on my Michelin Road 5's , cannot say enough how good they are! Tread wear, grip is outstanding! You can't go wrong with a Michelin. There are a lot of good tires these day's , but I don't skimp, went my life depends on it!
  45. 1 point
    Planning to replace them with the Michelin road pilot fives which is what I had on my last bike . It is a little bizarre that Yamaha only recommends one specific tire for the bike. It makes you wonder if all the other must do 's in the manual say are equally ludicrous . I have to say though as OEM tires that come on a bike they're much better than any others I've had on new bikes .
  46. 1 point
    My buddy has a Haynes manual also and it tells him to do some silly steps for simple maintenance. Use the Haynes for fire starter and get an official Yamaha manual. When I replaced mine, I taped the end of the new cable to the old one and pulled the entire thing through the frame down to the engine end. If you work it through slowly it shouldn't bind up or catch on anything.
  47. 1 point
    push the shift lever up, turn ignition key on, wait 10sec, release the shift lever - QS will be disabled/enabled. no need to unplug something.
  48. 1 point
    No diss, chris - but I think it's hideous!
  49. 1 point
    I emailed FEHLING in Germany and got this reply “this article is not compatible with your 2018 Yamaha Tracer 900gt. Unfortunately at the moment we do not have crash bars for your bike model.” I think it must have something to do with the body panels. If somebody has fitted these bars I would love to hear from them.
  50. 1 point
    Got these stands off Amazon. The pins do fit the headset. Pretty stable. I did put spools on the swingarm too. Perfect setup for doing tire changes. The other front stand that Venom makes (cradle type) does not work on the front forks due to ABS sensor. Front Stand: https://www.amazon.com/Venom-Motorcycle-Triple-Headlift-Yamaha/dp/B01N0GSV96/ref=pd_sbs_263_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01N0GSV96&pd_rd_r=DEFAMQFP478GVV3TSQEM&pd_rd_w=W0Qds&pd_rd_wg=nOcLi&psc=1&refRID=DEFAMQFP478GVV3TSQEM Rear Stand: https://www.amazon.com/Venom-Motorcycle-Swingarm-Paddock-Kawasaki/dp/B0036QX4EY/ref=pd_sbs_263_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0036QX4EY&pd_rd_r=DEFAMQFP478GVV3TSQEM&pd_rd_w=W0Qds&pd_rd_wg=nOcLi&psc=1&refRID=DEFAMQFP478GVV3TSQEM

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