Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/21/2019 in all areas

  1. 13 points
    You don't need any of this stuff. Seriously. Waste of money. But if you want it, I'll sell it to you. All prices are shipped to lower 48, if you want to meet me in Temecula or Riverside CA, I'll take $10 off each thing you buy. No combined shipping, sorry. Motion Pro BeadPro Forged Steel Tire Bead Breaker: $40 Used once, to devastating effect. These things are fantastic for getting your old tire off the wheel, no problem. They are also fantastic at turning your new tire into recycling material. Don't buy these. Spend 20 bucks and have a shop do it for you. But if you want them, you can have the rim protectors for free. They do protect your rims. But not your fingers. Rox 2" Pivot Risers: $50 SOLD I guess somebody might legitimately need these. But you will have to tweak your front brakeline. Maybe just removing the one clamp, maybe more, I don't know. Put them on once, didn't like them, and they've just been banging around in my toolbox. I'm 90% sure they're the 2" risers. I could be wrong. It happened once before. Stock Handguards, silver (2016): $60 If you took your handguards off and pitched them, or bought a bike without them, and after reading dozens of threads here saying you don't need them you STILL want them, fine. You've been warned. These do not protect from weather. These do not protect from wind. They limit which screen you can use. They make the bike 5 inches wider. Some of us think they make the bars wobble. And for some reason if you're still reading this and want them, I will happily take your money.
  2. 9 points
    After seven months, today I have a running motorcycle! Fixed the valve clearance, set the cam timing and synced the throttle bodies. A quick ten Mile test ride confirmed she's good to go. Super stoked!
  3. 8 points
    Well here it is, time to leave for Austin. I will leave tomorrow morning at 10:10 am and ride to Weed, CA, then to Coalinga, CA day 2, and on to Upland, CA by way of Angeles Crest Highway, plus some other outstanding roads on day 3. Will ride to Mt. Baldy and play golf on Saturday then ride to Gila Bend, AZ on Sunday and follow that by arriving in Sahuarita, AZ by way of Ajo to meet up with the rest of my buddies. A 4 day ride to Austin as we will take in some sites along the way, including Porter, AZ, up in the mountains and our first stop will be Columbus, NM. Second stop will be Fort Davis after riding around Baldy Peak and over to McDonald Observatory. Nice twisty roads. We will hit Big Bend National Park and ride to Santa Elena Canyon where you can walk over to Mexico and back without being bothered and finish the day in Sanderson, TX. Nothing there, just the right number of miles for the day. We will end up in Austin for the MotoGP races and we will stay at the Airport Motel 6. Come visit me. Ride home will be the highlight of this southern portion. We will ride I-10 to Van Horn, then wind our way up to Silver City, NM by way of misc. roads and NM-152 between I-25 and Santa Clara. Outstanding. Leaving Silver City on US 180, for a few miles then head West on NM 78 to Three Way, AZ and then head North on US 191, Historic Route 666, to Alpine and then on to Show Low on US 180 and AZ 260. This day presents the Epic ride day. After Show Low, three of us will return to PDX-Vancouver on roads not determined as of today. Total ride should be around 5,500 miles. So what did I do over the last month to prepare for this? New Michelin Road 5s, front and back. Change Oil, bled brakes front and back, installed a Cortech tank bag bracket fixing to gas cap, installed a EK 112 link gold chain. Pictures to follow as I take them.
  4. 8 points
    I came down with strep and stayed home today. I really feel bad but I can't stand having the bike just out in the garage and not being able to work on it. So I did. Made the valve adjustment, again. Wrestled with getting the cams in time, again. Double and Triple checked everything before I buttoned it up enough to run it. The second it fired I could tell it was right. Let it build some temp and gave it some revs and can absolutely tell it's fixed. It idles nice and smooth with no rev hanging and no stink. I need to test ride to be 100% sure but I'm feeling feverish so that'll have to wait. I then set about syncing the TBs. And after calibrating all my gauges I only had to make the slightest adjustment to the #1 cyl. And I really could have probably left it alone. So I'm super stoked. If I would have listened to skipperT months ago and double checked the cam timing it would have already been fixed. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions and well wishes throughout this long process. Which was mainly only this long because life got in the way a little bit and I got lazy. My theory is the original noise was the CCT starting to let go. The dealership was trying to screw me, it's started for me every single time I've hit the button before and after this issue and I never heard anything that would lead me to believe there was serious internal engine damage occurring. When I replaced the CCT the intake cam jumped at least one but possibly two teeth. I'm not sure why the valves were tight. I still need to put the bodywork back on and I might try to sneak out in it later on tonight for a test ride.
  5. 8 points
    "The idea of shifting with it under full gas is, in my opinion, out of question, unless you want to ruin your gearbox in short time. " That is simply not the case. Full throttle, clutchless upshifts using the quickshifter is exactly what it is designed for. If that were not the case, Yamaha would not offer it on their bikes at all, let alone with a warranty. The quickshifter cuts the ignition for an instant, unloading the shift dogs and allowing a smooth, seamless upshift with no shock to the drivetrain. They are somewhat less smooth at light throttle or when you are trying to modulate the throttle outside of what Yamaha has programmed into the quickshifter for ignition interruption and shift speed/duration. Addling a bit of clutch does help with the 1-2 shift, as the physical gearbox change is larger, skipping past neutral. Next time you are on the open road, starting in second or third gear, try holding the throttle wide open, zero variation, and as you near redline, actuate the shifter. You will be amazed at the speed and smoothness of the shifts. Rob
  6. 7 points
    After 36,000 FJ 09 miles, I made the switch. I think that the FJ is one of the best bikes I’ve owned; never one problem was experienced. However, the GT is a better bike. Thankfully, the great triple engine is unchanged. The quality of fit and finish is better. The stability with the extended wheelbase is improved. I like the TFT dash, the cruise control, and the suspension is better than on my 2015. I like that the drive mode doesn’t return to std everytime the engine is stopped. It stays in A mode which I prefer. The stock seat is much better than the FJ’s. No need to buy an aftermarket seat for me. The sum of the changes finally made me upgrade, I’m glad I did.
  7. 7 points
    New tires! Roadsmart 3s as the Road 5s were a miserable experience with cupping and ramping after 2,000 miles. Oh well, I've got a tire machine, so "Quit your bitchin!". I truly view tires as consumables and don't think badly of Michelin. I think I'll try more rebound, yet I didn't have this problem with Roadtec 01, T30 Evos or RS2 that were previously fitted. I was running 36F/42R as my girlfriend is usually rides pillion. The Tiregard TPMS is a good system. I've mounted the sensors inside the tire rim using Doran Manufacturing valve stems with the lock ring.
  8. 7 points
    I snuck out for a short ride today around the Texas Gulf Coast. I can’t be the only person that does this at a traffic circle, right? (note the GPS trace isn’t exactly accurate... I’m not as incompetent as this appears, and I did stay completely on the pavement)
  9. 7 points
  10. 6 points
    Day 6: Shorter ride to meet up with friends in Sahuarita, AZ. I took the hwy to the south out of Gila Bend so I went through Ajo, AZ. Although a ways from the border, it is a border town with a central town center with the churchs, public building and markets, all done in white and stucco. You can do a 360 degree on Google Earth. Felt like I had been there before as I did that. Some nice rock formations just North of town. My pictures didn't get the best ones, but I did get this picture of a couple cacti waving at me. I met up with my friends that I would be riding to Austin with.
  11. 6 points
  12. 6 points
  13. 6 points
    Couple of photo's from Scotland.
  14. 6 points
    I have three bikes with a QS, the Tracer GT, a BMW R1200 RS, and a KTM Super Duke R. All of them work best under full throttle and work fine but less smoothly under partial throttle. I think a QS works better than my muscles, and I think it is easier on the transmission since it will unload the cogs more timely and more consistently than I can operate the clutch. I think the QS works best when I flick the shift lever quickly and without hesitation. Don't baby this thing. Don't take it easy. Doing it slowly is not doing the software any favors, which is counting on unloading the engine just long enough for the shift lever to move the transmission to the next gear. I like it a lot and it's one of my favorite electronic gizmos on a bike. From now on, when I get a bike, I want it with a QS.
  15. 6 points
    Yesterday was too cold to ride, but warm enough for some time in the workshop. I wanted to flush the coolent since it was from 2015, check / change the air filter, sync the throttle bodies, and install an APE manual cam chain tensioner. (it has the TSB replacement tensioner but still rattles occasionally) I decided to check the valves since it was apart, and I'm glad I did. Bike has 12k on it and all exhaust were tight, and two intake were on the low side. Luckily I had a 7.48mm OD shim kit on hand. I set exhaust all on the high side (.30mm), and intake in the middle at .15mm.
  16. 6 points
    I had wanted to do Pattonme's Intermediate offering. Seemed to be just the right level for real world street riding. Unfortunately, got no response to PM's and emails. Apparently, I missed the post about calling. So I emailed Nick at Stoltec and he responded immediately. Went with the upgraded stock cartridge and springs for my weight. Did the install last weekend and managed a short ride earlier this week. Made a couple of minor errors on the install, which Nick provided direction on what it was. He has consistently been very responsive. I am very pleased with my experience with Stoltec and heartily recommend him.
  17. 5 points
    After a quick air pressure check to prepare for tomorrow morning’s ride, I broke out the family scrapbook and told my FJ09 the story of some of his ancestors... Is it really possible that the original FJ is now 35 years old? I have fond memories of my old FJ1100, and feel like the 09 has been a worthy modern successor...
  18. 5 points
    Figured this would be a cool spot to post pictures of where you go that are motorcycle specific. Mine is of TWoS (Two Wheels of Suches) today.
  19. 5 points
    It’s really hard to show the original handlebar vs the Rizoma. Every time I try I realize it does not provide a true representation of how different the two are. Hopefully these pictures will help. Way better for me and my riding style. Add to that, not unexplained shakes over 90 since I dropped the bar ends, bar, and mirrors. All really good things to wreak havoc at high speeds.
  20. 5 points
    lol We tell noobs to start on 600 supersports all the time instead of 1000s, and those 600s have more power than the Tracer does. It's no fire-breathing monster, c'mon. It won't bite. Bikes don't magically sense that their riders are inexperienced and launch them to the moon. It's all about control. A hamfisted rider will get into trouble on a 300, but a careful rider can be fine on an H2R. Like I said, if we were talking about 200+hp superbikes, then sure. But in the grand scheme of motorcycling, the Tracer is easy to ride and very user friendly.
  21. 5 points
    Hey folks, looking for ideas on 360 Motorcycle videos. since purchasing a Rylo 360 on ebay. I attached the Rylo 360 to the left handlebar end and filmed a short ride nearby. This 360 video can be panned by dragging the mouse anytime to see the rest of the scene. I purchased an in-expensive pair of VR Glasses from Fry's electronics [Naxa] and play the original 360 video using my smart phone...and this is like an entirely new playing field on filming since you see a Real panoramic view. I use a VR app. on my Samsung and some Youtube 360 videos also have a VR goggle icon. With the VR goggles on you can spin around in your chair to follow the Motorcycle ride...hard to explain how far out this 360 tech. really is. Also I see that editing a 360 video is different because you do not have a fixed shot. Since this is more unlimited than expected, what are some ideas on editing, panning etc?...anyone? Seems like a thick forest would look good or some natural landmarks? btw: I did upgrade the RAM mount to 1.5" higher so I don't include the rear view mirror on my 2015 FJ in the shot.
  22. 5 points
    Uncrated Friday. Unfortunately, the side bags did not come with the bike, still waiting on this. I am giving the dealer until this Friday. But, I love the bike, previous bike was the XSR900, (19K miles in 2 years). I wanted something better suited for longer rides. Still not sure about the seat. But, I did a few multi-day rides on the XSR, and this seat is obviously way better. So far, I love it. Ready for the good weather!
  23. 5 points
    Well here I am sitting in my motel room waiting for the rain to stop on Day 11, and haven't post a single thing. Too much to do while riding, drinking, eating and sleeping. Day 1: Checked weather and it looked like no rain, so I didn't put on the rain gear. Rode through Portland in the rain, Eugene in the rain and one more shower, but never really got wet. Dried quickly and just kept riding. After 110 miles I stopped to put on my rain gear to get warm. Ending in Weed, CA with no events on I-5. Nothing to report and no picture. 366m, 8h8m. Day 2: Checked weather and put on rain gear to stay warm and defend against a few drops that fell from Weed to Redding, CA. After Willows, I took off the rain gear and pretty much had dry to the Motel 6 near Coalinga, CA. There was some smell from the cattle, but the wind helped push another way. No pics today. 416m, 8h44m. Day 3: No rain. Rode down to CA-138 then over to CR-N2. This was a surprise as it wasn't anything I expected, I will give you a picture to entertain you. I got 10-14m into the road before turning around as it would take too long and wasn't worth it, I think, maybe if I had a dual sport. From 138 to CA-14 and just past Palmdale I turned off on Angeles Forst Road. Best road so far and well worth including in any ride. Angeles Crest Hwy was closed at CA-38, but I rode up to a Observatory and then backtracked on ACHwy to LA. Got on the 210 and made it to Upland. 298m, 6h22m. CR-N2: Old road never repaved. Orig. is concrete with garbage asphalt easing the tight corners. You can see the orig. conc. with the asphalt on the right easing the corner. Lots of pot holes etc. Great views. View from where I turned around. Would have been fun if I had time and the right bike.
  24. 5 points
    Installed Leo Vince stainless exhaust. Sound with the DB killer in is quite good. Maybe will take the db killer out just for fun.
  25. 5 points
    Yesterday we did 400+ miles all in the mountains and on back roads. It was glorious.
  26. 5 points
    Maybe it's an age thing... indeed. I'm planning my summer trip now. Two weeks, ~5k, three other riders. One is 75, another is 82. The 82 year old rides a CB1000RR. I'm the whipper snapper at 57.
  27. 5 points
    No, I like the challenge as you have it, and look forward to what everyone else comes up with. It's spring, so get out and ride! And while you're out, get: A picture of your FJ/Tracer with spring wildflowers or other blooming landscape.
  28. 5 points
    100000 miles. Going strong!
  29. 5 points
    UPDATE: I just spend the weekend on my Terry Adcox seat and can report I am extremely happy. I have never been this comfortable on any motorcycle in the past, ever. I highly recommend anybody with an FJ-09 or Tracer to send your seat to Terry!
  30. 5 points
    Very interesting findings today. It appears the intake cam slipped a tooth during the install of the cam chain tensioner. When I originally checked the cam timing after getting it back from the shop it was spot on. However I did not double check it after I installed the tensioner. I lined everything back up spun the engine by hand a couple times and rechecked it. I then double checked the valves to make sure my numbers were still good for ordering new shims. Now I'm extremely hopeful that when it goes back together this time it's going to be right.
  31. 5 points
    Gave the bike a quick wash today but headers just aren't coming clean so I had to pull out 'my lil friend' to get the job done. I've been using Bar Keepers on my KTM headers since we ride a lot of adobe clay which is by far the hardest to remove after its baked on. Made quick work of these headers, heres a before/after...
  32. 5 points
    See, that's good because miles are like kilometers but bigger. All kidding aside, I have 53K miles on mine and i'm about to do two cross country (USA) trips without any hesitation.
  33. 5 points
    Ok, did a bit more work this weekend with the prototype on the bike, blind rivet nuts for the cross bar and a better finish. Wired the GPS cradle into one of the spare power sources under the instrument cluster. Ready for actual testing on the road to check vibrations, ease of windshield adjustment, etc. Should be able to ride again when it stops snowing mid-week. Here are a few pix: Installed on bike, no GPS or windshield With GPS mount and cradle installed on cross bar With GPS attached Windshield reinstalled. From the cockpit Still easy to adjust the windshield height. Nice line-of-sight view of the GPS. Happy so far. Will let you all know how it is when riding. Stay tuned. Rob
  34. 5 points
    I’ve read of multiple methods to clean headers and most sound labor intensive with relatively toxic materials. A suggestion I found online is to use Kaboom bathroom cleanser and a scotchbrite pad. It sounded too simple, but it works great. Spray on the headers, wait a couple of minutes and then scrub with the pad. About five minutes of scrubbing followed by wiping clean with a microfiber towel was all it took to remove the last 22,000 miles of accumulted stains.
  35. 5 points
  36. 5 points
    Took it into the wild... suburban edition. First outing of 2019... had a bunch of things done over the winter, so rode it conservatively. I was anxious about the suspension bits, but happy to report that it, and other mods worked very, very nicely: Suspension (Nitron NTR R1 shock and Race Tech Gold Valve fork piston kit) - I am speechless... and relieved. So smoooooth. Front Brakes (320mm 2015 R1 rotors and ECB sintered pads) - Too early to tell... will need bedding in. Screen (Madstad 22") - Perfect size for me (5'-9"). The Kappa with X-creen Tour worked well, but the light weight of the Madstad should save me from having to replace my dash/windscreeen stay again. I suspect that the crappy suspension contributed to the failure. Exhaust (Scorpion Serket slip-on) - louder than expected, but not obnoxious... tone of the CP3 motor is intoxicating. Needless to say, the baffle is staying in. Levers (People's Republic brand of some kind) - Replaced shorty levers with regular length levers... felt good. There were other mods... but these five will be most impactful on my riding experience. Money very well spent. It is going to be a great riding season. 😀
  37. 5 points
    Spotted a small rust patch on OEM exhaust when cleaning yesterday. Decided this is a sign that it will fail imminently. Applied man logic. …ordered Ti version 😎
  38. 4 points
    Control the wrist, control the bike. Between the tracer (850cc) and a 650 IMO there isn't THAT much of a difference in power to warrant a massive concern. I can't imagine most would think going with a non-ABS 650 over an ABS 850 is the right compromise, I think the opposite personally. I'd be way more concerned about an inexperienced rider locking up their brakes in a panic situation. The inexperienced getting into accidents because the bike is too fast are not from lack of experience but from lack of respect for how quickly they'll be killed on a bike. Step 1 should be to find a motorcycle safety foundation program and ride the course. Yes, you have a scooter already but even riding for years I'll occasionally retake the class or an advanced class be we inevitably build bad habits and it can help to greatly reduce those habits or at least be aware of them. Step 2 get a bike that's comfortable and has some form of traction control as a new rider, I've venture to guess more riders (who are older and aren't playing Joe rocket with the throttle) are hurt by panic stops or slick stops over goosing the throttle in a curve. I'd say go with whatever has more safety features and has a reduced power mode to work with for a while, that and remember, with great power comes great responsibility.
  39. 4 points
    It was such a great feeling after a long days work to walk around the corner and see this waiting to carry me home instead of waiting out by the road for my wife!
  40. 4 points
    I'm going to be passing through the Napa/Calistoga area around Memorial Day. After seeing this post, I think I will detour through 128 as well. It looks like a fantastic road.
  41. 4 points
    Guy came by the shop today wearing these on his bike, he let me try em and holy crap, I went back to my desk and ordered a pair. REV'IT! Sand 3 Gloves WWW.REVZILLA.COM Externally-stitched for extreme comfort, durable and breathable for extreme riding conditions. The Sand 3 Gloves are summer warriors, on or off road. I'll report back when mine arrive, but can already tell after trying them, these are my favorite for spring/summer/fall.
  42. 4 points
    For the first time in ages I had a decent ride out today, putting in a little over 400km of mixed roads in balmy bright sunny weather with no humidity and temps between a start of 21°C (70°F) and finish of 26°C (79°F). Couldn’t be nicer. I was running-in my new DRI-RIDER jacket, winter weight but with the quilted lining removed. This jacket matches my other DRI-RIDER jacket, that one being the full mesh summer jacket. The appearance, style, and light grey colours are the same on both, essential IMHO to reflect sun in this semi-tropic part of the globe. All-black simply wouldn’t cut it. The newly-positioned NavMan sat-nav doesn’t suit in its new position atop my DIY anti-glare hood over the instruments. It vibrated too much – not so much that I couldn’t read it but it was an annoyance and a distraction. I’ll now relocate it into its original position between the handlebar mounts – that location requires a glance downwards, whereas in its current position it does not, but I can deal with that. At least, I think I can - and if not I'll bin it! I am cautious about being distracted while riding, which is why I’ve never used sat-nav before, despite it being OE on my last two BMW boxer twins, an R1200R and R1200GS, nor do I listen to music while riding. The point was emphasised on the way home today when the lhs mirror came loose – obviously not tightened sufficiently by me when installing the mirror extenders – and that proved a real distraction. At one point I momentarily fiddled with it, and looked up to find myself heading for a ditch! Aaarrrggghhh! Back home I tightened it up and put the appropriate Allen-head key into the bike’s tool kit, just in case. Now planning a trip in mid-May to Melbourne and back to visit my #1 son at his pleasant farmlet at Littler River, about 45km W of Melbourne’s CBD. About 1800 to 2200km each way, depending on my chosen routes, but should be pleasant riding in this mid-Autumn, even though Summer has only just relinquished its grip!
  43. 4 points
    First let me say that I personally am not a fan of the "stinger" tail that is so commonly used now days. Fine for an all-out sport bike, but not for many others. I'll also say that I know many of you won't like how I've styled this. That's OK, it's not YOUR bike! But for me, this has worked out well and I thought I would share some of the process, along with the final results. For a Sport/Touring bike, the FJ09 is sorely lacking in onboard storage. Guess I'm spoiled by my ST-1100, with its fairing pockets, large under-seat cubby and factory saddle bags. My FJ (bought slightly used) came with the Yamaha bags, and I've added the Yamaha top box. I have both sizes of the top box, will swap depending upon need. Even so, I've felt that the area under the fender could be better utilized. And I needn't say anything about the fugly "Great Pumpkin" turn signals.... So, my original idea was to craft a container of some shape from aluminum sheet, with a door, to allow some tool storage under the tail. But as I was shopping around, I came across a plastic ammo box at Harbor Freight. I think it was about $6.00. I brought it home and, after pulling the stinger off, hung it under the fender with some tape and a bungie. The size and shape was about all I could ask for, so I decided to use it. A piece of 3/4 in aluminum angle, about 4 in long, is used to attach the front of the box to the two rear stinger mount holes. I had to stack a few washer on the bolts to build up for the gap in the recess of the fender. I used some 1/2 in aluminum strap and fabricated 2 hangers, R and L, that would loop over the top box frame and support the rear of the box. To make the hangers, I first cut about 16 in of the strap, then using my vise and a hammer, bent a 90 about 1 1/2 in from the end. I mounted a socket of the approximate diameter of the top box mount pipe in the vise, used a vise grip to clamp the strap to the socket, then bent the strap around the socket. I opted to use a piece of 1/2 in black HDPE for the rear fender. I wanted something styled some-what fitting for the bike, which would hold the license plate, incorporate new LED turn signal lights, and maybe add the MT logo, just for looks. I wanted the fender to be incorporated into the lid, so the design had to allow for the lid to open and latch. I covered the surface of the HDPE with painter's tape and transferred dimensions from the lid. I used router bits with my dremel tool (there is a router base that you can get for your dremel if you don't have one) and routed out an area that would lock the lid to the fender. One purpose of this step was to get an idea of how to work the material. Routing HDPE is much like routing soft wood. Then I flipped over the HDPE, laid out my desired design, and started routing out the basic shape. I cut 2 different widths of scrap wood to make guide spacers; one for the "near" side side of the router bit, one for the far side. Then used the spacers to set up my router guide (I used a level) which allowed me to route out one line, or edge, at a time. Once the edges were all routed out, I put the router bit in my drill press, set the depth, then routed out the excess material between the lines. My fender was nearly complete. I sanded some of the irregular spots, then used my sand blaster with coal slag media to blast the entire surface to give it a rough textured surface. I mounted the ammo box lid with a few counter-sink screws. I also purchased some "LED Bolts" to use to iluminate the license plate. Old computer LED wiring connectors (for power, hard drive, etc) will just thread through the 1/4-20 nuts that the LED bolts use. This will allow the removal of the license plate without having to cut any wires. The turn signals are amber"Emergency beacons" purchased from Amazon. Damn bright! They can blink various patterns, but I set them as constant on so the upgraded LED blinker relay would give them a proper blink rate. The wiring is all fed in to a wire loom, then routed up in to the same hole where the original wiring went in. Black silicone was used to fill the hole to keep water out. Connectors from Custom LED were used to allow everything to be plug and play. As a final touch, I embossed the MT logo with some red vinyl that is pretty close to the original color. I also slid heat-shrink tubing over the aluminum banding to give it a nice black color. So, there you go; custom rear fender with integrated tool box! I probably have at least 20 hours in this project (routing was tedious!) but I am pleased with the results!! All work performed was done with hand and power tools most should already have in their shop. Only additional tools I purchased for this were router bits for my dremel tool. Shopping list: Harbor Freight: Ammo box https://shop.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/6/1/61451_W3.jpg Amazon: 1/2 in Black HDPE (approx 12x12 in) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JPHTPCI/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Amber LED "Emergency Beacons" https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074V7VD4Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 LED Bolt lights https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CXNPRNW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  44. 4 points
    Here’s my father in law with my FJ. He’s a Korean veteran. Great guy and one of the founding members of my motorcycle gang. The cornbread mafia. There are 2 of us. Your challenge, since spring has sprung. A pic of your FJ with some spring wild flowers at least 100 miles from your home.
  45. 4 points
    Not a walk-through but just some general information for anyone doing research on the product, now that I can offer an opinion. It is a nice upgrade to the stock front suspension on the one-legged FJ-09. The kit replaces the two OE valves (compression and rebound) in the active leg. Compression damping remains non-adjustable. If one is considering options.... this mod won’t break the bank and it works very well. One could also just have the kit installed by a suspension shop. The process is very close what is shown in this YT video describing installation of a similar kit. I also recommend watching Race Tech videos (here). These are oldies but goodies. THE KIT The kit (FMGV S2050C) is meant for several different bikes. It contains everything you will need for the FJ, and several things that you won’t. Fork springs/spacers (if needed) and oil need to be purchased separately. I already had the springs that I purchased from Stoltec (re-used OE spacers). Instructions (here) aren’t the best… so it's helpful to read up on how the stacks are constructed and how they work. Some light bedtime reading is recommended. The promise of the Gold Valve is a more composed ride due to improved oil flow through the re-designed valves with custom-built shim stacks. OE and Race Tech valve bodies compared below. DIGITAL VALVING SEARCH (DVS) A Digital Valving Search (DVS) code is contained on the instructions sheet that comes in the kit. This code entitles the owner to a one-time custom setup. This involves going to an online DVS portal and completing a questionnaire, but... the portal wasn’t recognizing my DVS code, so I emailed Race Tech and got a Technician assigned to help me out. The Tech asked a few questions (type of bike, rider weight w/o gear, riding style etc.), and then sent me a setup sheet. The setup sheet contains shim stack setup, recommended replacement springs and the suspension oil. Initial preload and rebound damping settings are also noted. INSTALLATION Heat is required to access the compression and rebound valves as the threads are treated with red thread-locker. This is where a solid setup of the cartridge in the vise (aluminum or plastic jaws) becomes important. You do not want to be fighting with the cartridge spinning or moving out of position when doing this. Freed OE valve assemblies shown below. The kit replaces many of the pieces shown skewered on the zip ties below, including shims, valve bodies, the compression valve O-ring and the rebound piston band. There are several packets of shims in the box, but they’re NOT sorted or labeled with anything meaningful… so you basically have to sift through the pile to find the ones listed on the setup sheet. A digital Vernier caliper will make the task easy enough. Shims sorted in required order... The Race Tech setup sheet also required drilling a 1.3mm bleed hole in the compression valve body… which wasn’t very difficult. Some kits will come with the hole per-drilled. The OE rebound stack included a mid-valve, which the new configuration removes, leaving just the check plate in place. The space vacated by the mid-valve shims needed to be taken up with a spacer during re-assembly. The O-ring (compression) and the piston band (rebound) aren’t in the image. They went on just in time for installation into the cartridge. SUSPENSION OIL The DVS sheet specifies oil type and levels for each fork leg. The specified Race Tech oil is super expensive, so I used it only in the re-valved active leg. Filled the dead leg with inexpensive oil as it is only there to create an air spring, and for general lubrication. The setup called for 110mm in one leg, and 130mm in the other, measured from the top of a fully collapsed outer tube. The inner tubes (stanchions) on our bikes happen to have not one, but two equalizing holes toward the top of the tube, with the lower of the two being at ~130mm. This meant that the leg with the oil level specified at 110mm couldn’t simply be filled to that level as the oil would also fill the space between the tubes, leaving next to no air left in there. Race Tech was unaware... huh? I filled to 130mm and then added the equivalent to the 20mm required (~22cc). RACE TECH SUPPORT Getting assistance from Race Tech was an exercise in patience. It took a couple of days to receive response to queries… and there were a few. The work was done in the off-season, so thankfully this didn’t cost me riding time. RESULTS The feel is much improved and more precise, with great road feedback. The DVS sheet specified 6 clicks out from full hard, and that was a pretty good place to start… I ended backing it off one more click. Might have to change that back a click when summer rolls around and oil thins out a bit. Haven’t done any aggressive riding yet as the roads are still filthy, but I am very pleased thus far.
  46. 4 points
    There is a member here who has 142,000 miles on his. @olddawg
  47. 4 points
    Its not really downloadable, but it is handy. Tracer 900 & 900 GT Manual
  48. 4 points
    Running in new set of tires...
  49. 4 points
    Evotech rad guard installed. Aaaaaaand first ride of 2019. Opportunity to try out the new Puig Sport screen I had previously installed. So much better!!!
  50. 4 points
    Quick pic from yesterday's test ride up to the top of Mt. Umunhum overlooking the bay area.