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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/11/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Well, I've rebuilt over 15 car engines in my life, both top and bottom ends. Two stroke dirtbike engines, Four stroke dirtbike engines, and a few streetbike engines. MedRX is no better than the Chevron Techron, the Lucas Oil fuel additives, and most of the 10 other top shelf fuel additives. They all contain the same active ingredient, PEA and anyone who says that their "other" ingredients are superior are basically doing the old snake oil sales techniques. Ill explain below. Yamalube does not manufacture MedRX or Ringfree. Like Honda, they purchase and repackage/white label their oils and additives from petroleum/chemical firms. The active ingredient in most fuel additives that do the "cleaning" per say is Polyether-amine, or P.E.A. as it is better known. It's a nitrogen based detergent that cleans the top end of engines and fuel injectors and deals with the total crap that is in our gas here in the USA now days. Including Ethanol. There are only like 8 companies who actually manufacture fuel additives and oils, and then companies like gumout, royal purple, redline, Honda, Yamaha, Napa etc, etc purchase in bulk and package them under their names. Most all are about the same, with PEA Nitrogen as the active ingredient and some with other additives added in for marketing or fuel stabilization. Chevron even patented "Techron" for marketing purposes, but it too is just PEA with their stabilizer added. This allows them to market the superior technology and all that bull. PEA is what is used in all fuel additives, sometimes they call it something different but its basically a strong nitrogen formula. It is the strongest detergent additive available, this is why all fuel additives use it as the main ingredient. Any top shelf fuel additive with PEA in it works fine. I premix my dirt, street and snowmobile fuels with non ethanol 93 octane fuel and Royal Purple 10722 additive in five gallon race jugs. I use top end oil for the two strokes. I like the Royal purple because it has a strong fuel stabilizer so it can sit over the winter and the fuel won't go bad. But really , to determine the best addiive, dont worry so much about the brand, and just read the labels and pick the one that has the highest % of PEA for the lowest cost. EVerything else is just BS marketing. It also costs a whole hell of a lot less than anything sold at a USA bike dealership. A lot of the guys I race hare scrambles with use it as well, including the service manager at my local Yamaha Dealership. 😉
  2. 2 points
    Here are my impressions of the Roadsmart 3 after 3000 miles. I am 58 years old, 177 pounds in street clothes, am a fairly aggressive rider and the majority of my mileage is on twisty roads with a bit of cruising thrown in occasionally. Using 32 front and 37 rear psi cold. I never carry a passenger. The profile on this tire makes for nice, neutral steering but a bit quicker than the OEM tires. Turn in is steady right down to the edge of the tire with no surprises. They feel very well planted at deep lean angles, a bit similar feeling to the Dunlop Q3.....which is a good thing. They inspire a good bit of confidence mid corner and rear drive grip is excellent for the sport touring class. They seem to do well in the wet, but the time or two I have ridden in the rain or on wet roads I was being pretty cautious. The real treat with these is the dry grip which is excellent for the ST class. I have pushed these pretty hard on a couple of my favorite roads and they do very well in spirited riding. Based on the wear rate I expect the rear tire will last approximately 5500 miles before getting down to the wear bars at the sides of the tire. That may not seem like much mileage to some but the Bridgestone and Michelin I used before only made it to around 4500 to 5000. Dunlop claims this tire maintains it shape as it wears and so far that has been the case. The tires seem to be wearing fairly evenly and the steering and turn in still feel almost the same as day one. Dunlop usually offers rebates on their tires once or twice a year. I am pretty sold on these. Very sport oriented for a ST tire. I am surprised more riders don't choose these.
  3. 2 points
    Was thinking of a injector cleaner machine which can hold up to 8 injectors so you could in theory test 8 different cleaners. But anyways I agree with the "from day one". And even using it now/little later/here and there you could in theory keep it from building up to an amount that might effect something.
  4. 2 points
    Found a better cheaper option, $13 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8YZ0GU/ref=twister_B01L8YZ0G0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 So, you get a DLR that matches the Tracer LED strips and an amber signal light up high.
  5. 2 points
    Someone needs to set up a injector cleaning machine and point them at a dirty carbonned up valve with different cleaners and see which valve starts to clean up first. That would be interesting. I Picked up 4 of them for like $8. They are convenient because the size of them mixes with 5 gallons. So just carry one when I go to fill up and throw it away but I am sure if you got some chemical breakdown of them it would be similar . I will probably start investigating better fuel anyways.
  6. 2 points
    The side plates are now fully finished off with a coat of Hammerite and the pics show the pair as they would be mounted on the bike with the function of the cross rod obvious. The reason for making the side plates to carry 30litre soft panniers, a recent short trip.
  7. 2 points
    I sent mine back without ever taking it for a ride. For the price the fit was so unacceptable that I put it right back in the box for return shipping. As I said before, the Sargent seats for my VFR and Ninja 1000 were quality products that provided all day comfort with OEM quality fit. For the price, the seat should fit as well, or nearly as well as the OEM. I think where they went so wrong with this one is from trying to fabricate a Tracer seat from their own FJ-09 pan. I have done a few multi day trips on the stock seat and although it offers room for improvement, it is not horrible. Will continue to look for other options in the meantime. May even talk to Sargent about sending them my seat over the winter to be rebuilt to my own specifications.
  8. 2 points
    Not true. And unless you’ve pulled apart multiple engines that have used ( Medrx) / Ringfree (which I have) versus no fuel additive, I don’t believe you have enough data to back that up. @FJ29ER - formerly known as Ringfree, and also ringfree plus, medrx is a fuel treatment combined with fuel stabilizer that removes carbon buildup. It does what it says it does, although if you can find Ringfree plus, it’s the old formula (renamed). Was originally developed by Yamaha for treating carbon buildup on outboard engines, (along with combustion chamber cleaner) it works on any internal combustion engine. You can use it in 2 different doses, shock treating or constant treating. You do need to replace spark plugs and change the engine oil after a shock treatment (not constant treat) because the carbon breaks down and can affect the heat range and condition of the spark plug, and it can dump heavy carbon deposits in the engine oil (after a shock treat) IME crossplane engine valve lash get tight. I’ve seen it on many cp3’s, and several super 10’s. Yet to do a cp2 fz07, so jury is still out on that one. imho Carbon buildup causes valve lash to get LOOSE, not tight, because it gets between the valve seat and the valve which in turn causes the valve to be further down in the cylinder head (not tighter again IME) as opposed to sucking further INTO the cylinder head when closed, which would cause tighter valve lash. where the service writer lead you astray, was by stating that if you use medrx, your valve lash will be good, which IMO Is a bogus statement. There’s no guarantees for that, all engines wear differently. medrx will however decrease and prevent carbon buildup on piston crowns, rings, valve stems and seats, and inside the throttle bodies and intake tract. however, there’s also no substitute for running good quality, 91 or better name brand gas as Cruizin mentioned. It burns cleaner and leaves fewer deposits behind. Ethanol free fuel is generally thought to be better, but harder to find in some areas. -Skip
  9. 2 points
    Yamaha goes even a step further. In the manual they state that there are (only) 2 positions for the handlebar and that you should have your dealer adjust it if desired. About the dot marking and the original position: I think it is good that they have a reference point for the original position. I’m pretty sure there are more parts on the bike that have a “factory setting” reference. Some might be useful and or necessary, some might be neglected. But I think Yamaha wants to prevent a situation where a 100 bikes have a 100 different settings at the moment the bike are delivered to the customers. They have designed a bike with certain settings so that it suits its general purpose and safety. Designing a well balanced bike is quit a scientific process and Yamaha probably wants to make sure that all dealers deliver the bike as Yamaha intended. And I’m also pretty sure that Yamaha has a legal department that has a big say in this... That being said, of course there is plenty of room to fiddle around with some of the settings to get the best set-up for a specific driver. And the bars are a very good example. And as far as the shift points recommendation: I think that has to do with getting specific environmental certifications. The recommendation for the shift points are the points they used to get the lowest emissions rate during the official test (in Europe we have the Euro rating). So from a certification and regulation perspective they have to state those shift points, otherwise the bike is officially not compliant with the certification (no discussion about the usefulness of tests needed here....) Of course nobody will actually use these recommendations unless you want to drive like a 90 year old grandma and get your engine clogged with exhaust emissions.
  10. 2 points
    I ride in A all the time. The other day I switched to B on a stretch of steep gravel road. I thought I had broken my bike until I realized I had forgot'n to switch back when I hit the asphalt.
  11. 2 points
    I've got a set of them on my '15, about ~1000 miles so far. Great tyres. Excellent grip, wet or dry, cold or hot. No complaints here. Admittedly I am and have been a bit of a Michelin fan for many years, but maybe that's just because they make great motorbike tyres?
  12. 2 points
    Check out Chevron Techron Concentrate Plus available almost anywhere
  13. 2 points
    Damn, I feel like I accidentally started another oil or tire pressure thread... I was just trying to offer a quick answer to the ‘is there a way to get back to original position’ question. But original and correct aren’t the same thing, and I’m 100% in favor of adjusting the ergonomics to suit your individual preferences. There’s a lot of inherent adjustability in the FJ platform, so it only makes sense to take advantage of the options. Those shift points, though... 😲
  14. 1 point
    Hello all. I'm Chris. Been doing some interweb research on a bike purchase sometime after December. Coming from an FZR600, with about a 12 year break. Way too old to fold myself up on a sport bike, but really enjoyed the "connected" quick response of that old fizzer and hope to capture a measure of that with my next purchase and also facilitate comfortable riding with my spouse. I've narrowed by choices to either an FJ09 or an FJR. Maybe a Connie or Versys, but probably not. I had the fortunate luck to run into an FJR that the owner let me take a quick ride on. Wonderful bike, but feels quite a bit heavier. I wonder if there is anyone out there in central Indy who might be willing to oblige me a brief ride on their FJ09? I hope to find the FJ09 much lighter feeling. Cheers everyone!
  15. 1 point
    No worries, Dude. If it turns out you do need it, the offer stands.
  16. 1 point
    My dash readout isn't very accurate, so I measure mine actual miles divided by gals. On B mode I get close to 55, whereas in STD or A mode I'm in the upper 40's. My home and office are both 3 blocks from the on/off ramp, so on my situation it's a good read on the difference - ie there isn't much by way of start/stop on either side of the commute to create a variable that needs controlling (the lane splitting is pretty much the same every day). I roll onto the fwy, set the cruise control at 68, and sit back and listen to music/books. I do almost two tanks per week, so I've had a lot of opportunities to test this out.
  17. 1 point
    Good question, and I don’t know either offhand. The only thing that comes to mind is O2 feedback, which most flashes ignore. If the tuner has the AFR tables on the leaner side, then fuel type would help combustion, richer side and you would probably notice a lack of power and fuel mileage decrease. IIRC some engines can make more power either on the rich or the lean side, and this is also rpm dependent, forced induction or NA, compression ratios, temps, etc. lots of variables! Because most motorcycles don‘t have knock sensors, there’s really no way to tell during normal riding conditions. As you mentioned, it would probably be “wrist and rider dependent”. Atmospheric pressure is measured by the ECM and the maps would be adjusted accordingly. -Skip
  18. 1 point
    Also, I want to add that no cleaner is going to remove the sludge and carbon build up on old clogged up valves in one application. Such test are worthless because when some carbon is removed, it is because the tester was trying 3-4 different brands, and each one of those were actually starting to soften the carbon. When the final test comes and some carbon comes off after adding "brand x" , it isnt because brand x was any better than brand A before it, it was because Brand A, Brand B, Brand m all did their job and softened the carbon and the final test of "brand X' was just when the carbon broke off. It takes multiple applications to remove carbon deposits. And, what do you think happens to that carbon when it comes off the valves? It goes into the engine, scars up the cylinder walls and rings and everything else. Carbon doesn't just dissipate. So keep that in mind if you have a high mileage engine. There are also instances where carbon is actually doing an old engine a favor by filling in worn out gaps and keeping compression high on a worn out engine. The best course of action is to use any brand of fuel additive from day one on new engines so that carbon never does build up in the first place. Any brand of PEA nitrogen fuel additive works fine.
  19. 1 point
    At the risk of sounding like a cracked record (nobody under 50 will know what I'm talking about!) and/ or someone in their pay, let me suggest and recommend the BAGSTER seats from France. I await my just-ordered GT seats from them, and this will be my third or fourth such purchase for a Tracer. True - they are not 'custom' in the sense that one can visit the factory/ workshop and be measured and assessed and fitted on-the-spot by the seat-builder, which is what I believe some after-market seat-makers offer. Clearly, this might be the ultimate made-to-measure offer. But BAGSTER seats are beautifully and flawlessy made, and can be fully customisable in terms of your preference for any of a wide range of elements, including the all-important seat foams, as well as the covering materials in over 70 colours and types of finish; colour and type of stitching; decorative embroidery; height; gel and heated options, etc. They are not cheap - landed here in Oz, about AUD$450 to $550 depending. But worth every cent IMHO.
  20. 1 point
    The Lucas fuel additive has amoung the highest amount of PEA.
  21. 1 point
    I have used those same strips, but red, as my rear flashing/ pulsing brake lights, with the addition of a few-dollars cost GS 1000A Modulator to create the Skene-like modulation. I installed two strips, stacked one on top of the other for maximum visibility.
  22. 1 point
    Well this has been very informative, thanks Skip and Cruizin.
  23. 1 point
    I would have done the same. An aftermarket seat should fit as well, if not better than stock. To me it’s not something that you should have to modify to fit. Sargent took a long time to get the seat for the GT to market and this is the best they could do? Someone should make them aware of this thread as word of mouth on these forums is a very powerful thing. It would at least give them the chance to make it right. Just my $.02 Rob
  24. 1 point
    With the one I order, i had to remove to the front small phillips screws and replace them with the supplied screws. No drilling. Just finished right before I typed this.
  25. 1 point
    And avoid ethanol gas if you can. Gas station by my house has non ethanol 93 octane and it burns clean.
  26. 1 point
    Well, as far as I’m concerned I’m very happy with your answer to my original question. It really helped my out!
  27. 1 point
    I was seriously looking at one of these shortly after I bought my motorcycle. After I bought a pick up truck, my wife permanently nixed the idea and told me to just take both in the truck. Haven't done it yet, but I keep threatening.... My biggest concern was storing all the riding gear - special shoes, helmet, water bottles, etc. in addition to the regular moto gear. I don't think you could just pull in a rest stop and leave the moto and gear and go ride. You'd need a hotel room to lock everything up. At least with the truck I can completely lock the 2nd set of gear. I think it would be awesome to ride the bicycle for 2 or 3 hours, stop for a snack, then ride the motorcycle for 4 or 5 hours. Or ride the streets then grab the mountain bike to go explore trails.
  28. 1 point
    Thanks. Planning something different for next season, and will be looking for a tire that can do a bit of dirt/gravel and not be too bad on pavement. Interested in how it does over some distance for you. You're in Florida... so we should know just in time for spring. 🙂
  29. 1 point
    I saw a modulating headlight in action just recently on an older model Wing... heading toward me in opposite direction. It really caught my attention from quite a distance away. The only previous time I saw one of these I dismissed it as a broken headlight. 😕 LED high beams on the FJ are brutally bright though... would be unkind to have these strobe in traffic. A cap over the sensor would put a stop to that I guess. It would be way cleaner to have the feature integrated into a switch cluster somehow. No?.... anyone? 🤣
  30. 1 point
    Deffo. It's not as if the seat is a cheap Chinese knock-off...
  31. 1 point
    Just got back from taking the Sargent out for a shakedown ride. Within the first 100 yards of street and before I cleared my neighborhood, I knew I was going to keep it. After the first few miles, I definitely knew it was gonna stay. The nutcracking crown in the seat is gone. The lack of that upswept nose on the OEM seat and removing the crown all the way back to the back edge did the trick. The slightly wider pan at the rear is also a big plus, as is the rounded and narrower front edges; even though the seat is in the High setting, I'm almost flat-footing it on level asphalt (I have a 30" inseam and wear standard-soled Sidi boots). There is no longer a hotspot where the crown used to be; now my hips are resting on a wider and more level surface with no crunching involved. That alone is extremely gratifying. Hard braking affected only the bike and didn't rock me forward into that upswept OEM nose. What a relief! This is a very comfortable seat now; nice and stable with no sliding involved. After thinking on this some more, I'm now wondering if the design intent all along was to make this seat fit the High position only. As I understand things, the Corbin 1-piece seat is also installed in the GT's High position, which could imply that maybe Corbin never intended to make the seat height-adjustable. If that was Sargent's intent, I would think they should advertise the seat as such, since this seat's fitment in the Low position is less than what most riders would reasonably accept. I doubt we'll ever know the why's and wherefore's . . . Anyway, this Sargent seat, at least on my GT, is an easy 9 out of 10. The only negative I can think of is that a rider with a 29" or 28" inseam might find it challenging if they're used to flat-footing a bike. However, if they're used to standing on the balls of their feet when at a complete stop, they might well be quite comfortable with the height of the seat in the High position. Don't know if my seat-of-the-pants review will help anyone out, but if it does, then that's a good thing, I guess. These are just my simple, uneducated perceptions, so please keep that in mind. Now that I've ridden on it, I'm happy with my Sargent. Stay safe out there.
  32. 1 point
    True. But, there is a small dot cast into the stock handlebar on the left riser side, @Michiel900GT. The original handlebar orientation is with that dot aligned to the mating surface of the handlebar clamps. Note: This applies to the original FJ models, so I assume (but cannot verify) it also is correct for the GT.
  33. 1 point
    First commute Shinko 705 tire review. I'm not a tire expert so take this for what it's worth. I commute 90 miles one way. The first mile and a half is on sand and gravel road. Drove across some wet grass in my driveway first. Not so great traction, but it's grass. Tires feel great on the sand and gravel. Sand is hard packed since it rained yesterday. This is why I bought them and they work as advertised. I have no plans to offroad the FJ. The rest of my commute was 2 to 4 lane roads and about 10 miles of freeway. The tires are fine on asphalt. Hit speeds over 70 with no issues. Slight hum from the treads but nothing annoying. The few curves I had were no issues grip wise. The bike actually wants to turn in easier probably because the back is a 170, not 180. Just a guess. Feels more flickable. Hard breaking feels normal. You can feel the front treads when you are slowing to a stop but no other time. There feels like a little more vibration in the handle bars but it seemed to get better during the ride. Used the word feels a lot, lol. I feel like I got more than my money's worth. Great tires. I'll update if there are any issues.
  34. 1 point
    Just get a flashing blue light and mount it on your helmet. Cures most traffic issues.
  35. 1 point
    Your friend is welcome to join our supporting vendor program and I'll help him sell a ton of these via this forum, email marketing, our social media programs. This can include a group buy as well. Either way, I need to be involved in this as I have seen group buys go south and the Forum admin always gets blamed when they do.
  36. 1 point
    SIDE-STAND FOOT ENLARGER PLATE I installed this item today, from <mini-motor 3025>, costing AUD$21, USD$12, and delivered a mere eight (8) days after ordering. It is one of the best-engineered pieces of kit I have seen (and I've seen plenty!), and it's a pity in a way that it is to be located out-of-sight 'down there'. The base is a chunky 10mm in thickness, which means that the bike will stand a fraction more upright when on the side-stand - that will suit me. Functionally, it is very well done. I have seen similar items held onto the side-stand foot by the heads of three screws, highly dodgy I'd think. This version has two u-shaped plates that are fastened by no less than eight (8) hex-head screws, which I secured with some blue Loctite. A measure of the quality is the fact that the item was packed in a moulded acetate case with some protective foam inside: many other bits I have bought costing far more than this have obviously been thrown into the mailing box or envelope by an ill-trained gorilla. Very highly recommended.