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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/17/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Stayed close to home. Headed west, maybe southwest from Kuna towards Wilson Peak, ran out of road. Kept going a mile or two then turned around. Went down towards Silver Spring, same thing. On an appropriate bike I could have kept going. Not sure where I would have ended up, but... Tomorrow I'll stay on the pavement. Looks like out of Caldwell there could be a few good roads. Maybe head to Horseshoe Bend then head home. I think any decent riding requires some elevation. Still a little chilly.
  2. 2 points
    I used to attend an annual "Ride to Eat" event in Horseshoe Bend called the Chiliburger Run. There's a riverside restaurant there that made a pretty awesome chili burger. Looking at Google it appears the place is now called "Locking Horns Riverside Restaurant," I don't recall if that was the name when I went there, so maybe it's changed ownership. This pic is from the 2003 event. That's my TT600 in the foreground.
  3. 2 points
    U.S. models do not have an immobilizer. #9 is not mentioned in our manual.
  4. 2 points
    For the 90 degree valve stems, the rear can just stick straight out to the side, but the front stem will be a little easier to use if it's installed at a slight angle. Mine angles up slightly when the wheel is rotated so the stem is at the front of the wheel; this makes it easier to reach with a gauge or hose. Yes, I know my wheel is filthy.
  5. 2 points
    I stole this photo from @BBB - I drilled mine the same but a slightly larger drill bit.
  6. 2 points
    As far as I can tell, the foam is for noise abatement as you do get more induction noise, but the change is minimal. If you look at the airbox, the air intake is at the top of the box, i.e. not directly in the direction of any rain that may get under the tank. The intake is then via a “snorkel” that is vertical, so any rain will go straight down. The snorkel ends at the bottom of the air filter and there is a drain hole in the base for any water that may have made it that far. It’s quite a contorted air path. I modified mine some time ago, remove that strip of foam and chopped the snorkel down in length. I also get caught in UK rain pretty regularly, but not tropical storms and have not had any issues. I think it’s extremely unlikely that you’ll experience hydraulic lock. I only mentioned it as it was recommended when ECU flashing. If you’re worried at all then leave it in place for peace of mind.
  7. 2 points
    Tuesday Ride before we cant go out in groups.
  8. 2 points
    I have the carbon version and yes it’s deeper, not louder that’s what I liked about this exhaust. Looks like I will be drilling out my baffle as well and see what I notice.
  9. 2 points
    I received my parts for the fuel cell rack. I decided to make the rack using T-slot aluminum tubing from 80/20. We use this stuff a lot at work, and it has an excellent strength-to-weight ratio. I can also make a complex structure without any welding. Here is the rack mocked up. I'm using the mount points for the OEM grab handles.
  10. 2 points
    @2wheeldynoworksis who began advising owners that the removal of the foam was beneficial... they have the bikes on the dyno and I doubt he would make it up for $#!+$ and giggles. Regardless I actually like the increase in induction noise.
  11. 1 point
    Today I have fitted the Serket Taper stainless slip-on from Scorpion to my Tracer: https://www.scorpion-exhausts.com/yamaha-mt-09-tracer-2015-2016-serket-taper-slip-on-serket-taper-stainless-steel I plumped for the Scorpion because they are one of the few exhaust manufacturers that develop and dyno all their exhausts for bike specific application. Also, the slip-on is homologated here in the EU which means it will pass an MOT (Besiktning here in Sweden). I'm afraid I haven't taken any pictures of the fitting process but Scorpion offer comprehensive instructions via the website above. I just followed the instructions to the letter and everything went as described. The can and other components are extremely well made and I understand why Scorpion can offer a lifetime guarantee. Fitting the can requires cutting the original exhaust system, which involves getting it off the bike. Having read reports elsewhere I initially tried to do this with the centre stand still in place. However they must have had the skills of Houdini because I just couldn't fathom how to get the thing out with the stand in place. So as per the instructions I took the stand out (no mean feat given the strength of the spring ). Once the stand was out of the way the original exhaust could be removed with ease. The original exhaust needs to be cut immediately in front of the silencer box. There is a weld seam at this point and I just cut along the middle of that. This leaves about 15mm of pipe behind the O2 sensor where the new Scorpion connecting pipe attaches. I used an angle grinder to make the cut taking care to try and keep the cut-line as square as possible. Once the cut was made I deburred all the edges and got everything nice and smooth. The Scorpion connecting pipe is cleverly constructed with an inner and outer wall and fits very snugly over the Tracer's existing pipe. With the original downpipes off the bike I made the mistake of cleaning a small area and ended up sanding and polishing the whole lot! Once they were looking all bling again it was time to fit everything to the bike. Working from front to back I first fitted the downpipes, reusing the gaskets as they were in good nick and at this stage just loosely fastening the header bolts. Next I refitted the O2 sensor adding the hook ring washer supplied by Scorpion to which one of the supplied exhaust springs attaches. Next I fitted the supplied bracket that holds the can in place. This makes use of the holes and bolts used to hold the original silencer box in place. After that I slid the supplied connecting pipe into the silencer and offered the whole thing up to the bike to get an idea of how to angle and rotate the can and connecting pipe so that everything would line up. After that it was a bit of jiggery pokery to get everything into final position, but once in place everything sat firmly and securely and square. That done I tightened all the bolts from front to back starting with the header bolts. Torque settings for the various bolts as follows: - Header bolts[span] =[span] 20Nm - Exhaust bracket[span] = [span] 20Nm - Centre stand[span] =[span] 48Nm With that done I attached the three supplied exhaust springs, one from the connecting pipe forward to the O2 sensor and two backwards from the connecting pipe to the silencer. Then on with the centre stand and refitting of the centre stand spring which was a real git but eventually after much grunting and groaning ended up in place. Resisting the temptation to fire up the bike immediately I got some warm soapy water and washed the pipes and slip-on down to avoid burning in any greasy finger marks. The can sounds fantastic with a really nice deep burble without being ridiculously loud. There is a dB killer which can be removed, I've yet to try that. Not managed a ride yet either as the weather has been appalling. Hopefully I will be able to rectify that tomorrow. I've included a few pictures below to give an idea of what it looks like on the bike and how things go together. [/span][/span][/span][/span][/span][/span] Newly polished downpipes. Took a while but it was worth it. New connecting pipe slips on just behind O2 sensor. Can slides onto connecting pipe. Bracket holding the can in place. A few shots showing the can from different angles to give a feel for how it fits in with the bike: CS
  12. 1 point
    I eat there all the time, Its 30 minutes from my home if the road is clear. An awesome spot! Maybe next year, I'll organize a western ride event here . This summer, we will be locked in our homes, waiting for the military supply drops.
  13. 1 point
    Same here, 3/16 is 5mm which is what I used IIRC. In that region will be fine, it was a pure guess though, trying to balance gas flow and not remove the sound deadening benefit of the baffle. My only other thought is that it’s going to be easier to drill a bunch of small holes, test ride and then drill more or enlarge them, rather than start big and have to weld the holes up.
  14. 1 point
    Nothing massive but it is noticeable.
  15. 1 point
    I wonder why? Especially when it’s obviously in Yamaha’s capability to fit it and there’s an obvious consumer benefit to be had. They even spelled it in an American style!
  16. 1 point
    Hi @Pricey, welcome to the forum.
  17. 1 point
    Tiny increase in induction howl apparently. I think @norcal616 has noticed it. For me it is more than drowned out by my exhaust and I have a K&N air filter so I don’t have a comparable baseline. It’s certainly not a noise issue.
  18. 1 point
    I put 4 larger holes in the side above the rest of them. It seems to have allowed better breathing in a top gear acceleration .
  19. 1 point
    my 15 has the red key,here in Australia.
  20. 1 point
    That's a good ride. Rode it back in November. Got me a welcome to Idaho ticket. 70 in a 50 heading out of Lowman in the canyon. A little sketchy, but fun near Lowman. Low 40's snow and ice.
  21. 1 point
    I've talked with Yamaha, and the '17 is a one off doe only that year. I've also spoken with 2WDW and because the older models aren't compatible with the '17, the flash still wouldn't be able to be configured for the '17.
  22. 1 point
    Yes, it has anti-slosh foam. RCI (maker of the fuel cell) claims the foam is E10-compatible, but they also recommend replacing it yearly. I'm putting a good fuel filter on the line coming from the cell, and after it's a year old I'll take the foam out and see if it's really needed.
  23. 1 point
    I want to use the space in front of the fuel cell for a water jug and other storage, hence I positioned the frame further aft. The frame (~5 lbs), tank (7 lbs), and four gallons of fuel (24 lbs) only adds 36 lbs (16kg) total to the rear of the bike. That's way less than any human passenger. It should have no more effect on handling than, say, a loaded top box. Probably less, actually, since top boxes are usually mounted even higher and further aft. Edit: I looked up top cases. A 46L Givi trunk (which many people seem to use) weighs 10 lbs, and has a rated capacity of 22 lbs. The mounting rack probably weighs at least four lbs, so this common luggage setup weighs at least as much as my fuel cell but is carried higher and further back. And of course we know nobody ever exceeds the weight rating of their trunk, right? 😀
  24. 1 point
    I got one fitted to the rear last change, and came back to the bike with a large chrome cruiser one fitted. Pays to see them before fitment.
  25. 1 point
    There's no RFID chip in my key, so I don't see how the key would be linked to the ECU. However, the ECU *might* be linked to a gauge cluster, or Yamaha has some other clever tricks up their sleeve. Dunno, hopefully someone who had to replace an ECU will chime in soon.
  26. 1 point
    That T-slot aluminium tubing looks excellent for framing. It must have a really good strength:weight ratio. What total mass are you adding when the fuel cell is full? Is there a way to bring the mass forward, so that it is more over the rear seat or are you using that area already? I was thinking that a more mid point for the centre of gravity would aid stability.
  27. 1 point
    I guess I have not yet done electrical tests 3~6!? I've got to read more! I'm going to start over using the video and recheck all the instructions!
  28. 1 point
    Great coverage, will download! LOL
  29. 1 point
    I do the lowman loop often in summer/fall . It's an awesome ride.
  30. 1 point
    My favorite road in that area is 21 going to Lowman and Stanley.
  31. 1 point
    yes, those should work just fine.
  32. 1 point
    Agreed, they must have changed the procedure. I have not seen that video before and don't remember doing anything similar but my unit is over 3 years old now.
  33. 1 point
    The goal is 300 miles before I need to think about it. Under normal conditions I should be able to go 350 miles, which is usually the max interval for IBA rides and most LD rallies. In a pinch I should be able to go 400 miles, or even a little more if I run it to fumes.
  34. 1 point
    Harsh! Ok, first point is that the term Nomads when used in this context refers to (generally) those that are retired and travel about carefree. It is the shortened form of Grey (spelled correctly) Nomads. Point two is that we prefer to consider that we drive on the "correct" side of the road (spelled correctly). Point three is that you're correct about the lances and it's because we have to stay prepared for jousts like this. 😄
  35. 1 point
    Huh, please explain Nomads to us Continentals. Hair color (spelled correctly) and we also literally drive on the "right" side of the road; and I know why you still do but it's been a while since riders carried lances...
  36. 1 point
    Warmer fuel due to removing that tiny bit of foam over the smallest section of the tank? I’m not sure there will be a significant change in the insulation effect from the engine. The stoichiometric mix of air/fuel is around 14:1 so any tiny changes in density of the fuel are outweighed by the air volume. And by the way, octane density only drops 8% from 20 celcius to 80 C, so that’s a 0.5% change when mixed with air at that ratio.
  37. 1 point
    No, nothing that I noticed. Even before drilling the holes, I didn't find the Scorpion necessarily 'louder' but it is definitely a deeper sound, like turning up the subwoofer on your stereo. If you were to completely remove the baffle then it is indeed louder.
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    Fitted the Heed Engine/ Crash Bars today, very impressed, quick delivery, very well protected/ packaged and a doddle to fit. Cheers Steve
  40. 1 point
    The next project will be auxillary lights. I got a pair of these nearly-new PIAA LP530s off Craigslist for $50 ($300+ new). They're pretty large and I'm not sure yet where I will mount them. Lily is skeptical.
  41. 1 point
    I've already done a few things to make my FJ into a better touring bike, including: * Hepco-Becker hard saddlebags * National Cycle V-Stream touring windscreen * Warm-n-Safe Heattroller for a heated jacket * Yamaha OEM heated grips * Mr Ed's Moto custom saddle To do list: * Cruise control * Auxillary lights * GPS * Auxillary fuel * Hydration system

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