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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/16/2021 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    500 Euros = $603.85 dollars........buy two new tires for $250.00, buy 80 gallons of premium gas for $250.00, and use the last $100.00 for rides to lunch.
  2. 2 points
    If I could offer one small piece of advice then that would be to put the resistors that are required 'in-line' with the wiring down at the McCruise module end rather than squeezing it all into the switchgear space like I did. You may have already considered doing it that way but thought I'd mention it just in case. Also, remember that you will need the use of the backlight wire to effectively split the SET/RES resistors if doing it that way - as per this post. Good luck and keep us informed on how you go.
  3. 2 points
    Need more facts. How much do you weigh and how bad is the seat to you? If you can't go 1 hour in the seat, the seat is first.
  4. 2 points
    I will check this tomorrow, thanks for the tip! I did! It took me a while to gather all the stuff I needed for this job but I mostly followed the advice I found here. I used a regular cheap non-scotchbrite pad and did notice some scratches on the rotors. I figured they will wear off from braking? Hopefully I didn't mess up here. I used pure isopropyl alcohol from the pharmacy. Scrubbed the calipers with a toothbrush, warm water and detergent (worked great) and used a product called plastilube, especially designed for brake caliper lubrication on the pad pins and backing plates. I used a torque wrench and copper grease on the bolts.. I only learned later that this is controversial and maybe a more old-school method? The manual says silicone grease and I found out that the copper is abrasive so not to use it on moving parts. I also went to the garage to get a new lock for my topcase so I can use one key for everything (that install also went great) and took the opportunity to talk to the mechanic who said that he still uses copper grease, even on the sliding pins so that's a relief in a way; if I had taken it to the dealer there would be a lot more copper grease on there. 🙂 Laughably awful is exactly how I would describe my rear brakes before today. Really weird how these brakes seem to differ from bike to bike. So I did the test drive and did a lot of braking but not really the brake in procedure yet because EBC advices to ride normally for the first 300 miles. https://ebcbrakes.com/articles/motorcycle-bed-in/ I'm very happy to say that both the EBC HH in the front and the EBC organic in the back are immediately so much better than before, even without bedding them in. I feel safe again! Thank you all. I will also bleed the brakes next week and that plus bedding in will make them even better while I'm already very satisfied with the way they perform now. Happy days!
  5. 2 points
    I guess it depends on your opinion of the stock items. Do you hate them or are either adequate for your needs? Ultimately, you could do both over time but agree with @kilo3 - seat first so at least you are comfortable while you ride. Neither are cheap upgrades but riding is my passion and anything that makes it more enjoyable/comfortable is money well spent to me.
  6. 2 points
    Lads, I feel like a phuckin dope.... I bought the bike (finally) last night and then I find out the bike has factory installed heated grips 😳
  7. 1 point
    This was my experience with this combination of brake pads too. FWIW I found that I needed a couple (few?) bleeds to really get all the air out of the lines which left me with a nice hard lever/pedal feel.
  8. 1 point
    Seat A sore butt on a long ride can take the fun out of riding this great bike . And the seat that comes with it,, is crap . Unless your doing Off Road ,then do your suspension . For general riding ,just fiddle with the front and rear shock adjusters . I got my suspension just fine and have now made myself a nice comfy seat . Don't get the OEM comfort seat .look at Bagster or a good (very good) upholsterer . Get rid of the seat foam and get some high quality memory foam shaped and fitted . I use the foam from a near new Super Tenere seat I had . A bit of shaping , fixing ,hot air gun and I got the original seat cover back on (pneumatic stapler ) Good luck
  9. 1 point
    Thanks for pointing that out! I think I will build a new harness to plug in down at the module so I don't have to hack up the MCC controller wiring. I'll make sure to include a wire to carry the current back to the SET/RES button if I do my own harness. I have some time to plan it out. Our garage is just getting finished up, and I have all the stuff to move in and get organized before I can tackle this project.
  10. 1 point
    Depends on the style of riding you do. I used to have a '04 BMW R1150R which I loved. Light, quick enough, and easy to maneuver. But my riding habits in recent years started going more and more long distance touring style. I was seriously considering a BMW K1600GTL, Honda Goldwing DCT, Ducati Multistrada 950S, or a BMW 900XR, before I stumbled upon the Niken GT by accident. The Niken GT's comfy seats, more upright seating position, cruise control, solid engineering, and relatively lower running costs (in comparison to the German/Italian fare) made it a great GT bike for me. Haven't put enough miles on yet to determine how quick it'll go through tires. But I am planning on getting a NoMar tire changer in the near future since I do plan on swapping tires out myself to save some money e.g. local shop charges about $30-50 per tire to replace/mount/balance new tires on my ride. After about 4 tire changes the machine will have paid for itself and I can use it to swap out my summer car tires with winters and swap back again.
  11. 1 point
    I agree, the Givi is a lot shorter than the Vstream that I had on my Versys though and I was not able to get the same results with the X-creen today. But I will keep trying other combinations. If it's just too short I will have to look at another screen because I know for sure that the x-creen works very well from experience.
  12. 1 point
    Seat, you can always drive within the limitations of the suspension, the inverse is a lot more painful.
  13. 1 point
    I just bought a used Super Tenere left-hand switch pod and all the resistors/LED parts I'll need to copy Daz's amazing mod. Hopefully I don't let out the magic smoke 😄
  14. 1 point
    Have patience, there are many height and angle combinations possible, it can take a fair bit of trial and error with pulling off the road and making small adjustments, once you find the right combination though, they work really well. 👍
  15. 1 point
    I have this manual; but since it uses Adobe Flash...it may not work for long. Took a snapshot of the VM for the time being until I can either convert it to some other format, or buy a paper manual. Sigh; back to paper. Paper's batteries don't die, it doesn't track my actions, send me endless alerts or get hacked, doesn't expire or become outdated. I can still read it in the sunlight, and scan a page to enlarge it if I need to...
  16. 1 point
    I can't speak to tire life as I only put 325 miles on mine before winter set in. It's not a light bike but I don't have any problems moving it around. One of the reasons I traded my Triumph Tiger 1200 for the Niken was that it was so top heavy. The Tiger weighs about the same but it's much taller and could get leverage on you. If you got the slightest bit off center it felt like it wanted to fall away from you. Nearly dropped that bike several times and I haven't dropped a bike in years. I have not experienced that so far with the Niken. Just pushing the bike around the garage it reminds me more of my K1300s. Not light but low enough that it's not a problem.
  17. 1 point
    I had the same experience after riding one during Yamaha "demo days" last summer. Its over 100lbs heavier than the equivalent Tracer GT so it might be a burden pushing it around in the garage but the extra weight was not very noticeable once underway. For its size, I was really impressed with the comfort, easy of steering and flicking side to side.
  18. 1 point
    It is significantly heavier than a tracer or Mt09 - so as you surmise you do have to park it carefully and think about how you will get it out. On the road the weight is less noticeable as the front end is so clever - a steep rake, small/light wheels and a hybrid of leaning and ackerman operation means all manouvers are the same as regular. I find on the road, the only time it has caught me out is pulling off dodgy overtakes, as it can take more effort to haul back if the overtake is short. Tyre choice is limited. Personally i hated the OEM tyres - A41s. I find they slide far too easy and are too hard - the rear spinning up all the time. I've put Pirelli Diablo Rossos on, which i havent had enough time to try lockdown/wet etc, but think they will be better as they are less stiff and are a superior compound. Considering the stunning engineering, as usual Yamaha (suzuki and kawa do the same) fit utter rubbish. It's difficult to know if tyre life is better or worse as everyone rides differently (even road surfaces affect wear) but it shredded the rear A41 in 3000 miles. It's worth noting that the extra tyre means more cost to change - also if one of the fronts gets a puncture and is wrecked then both need replacement. Factor that as a cost. I have my own tyre changer (well a share in one) and so dont have to worry about this. The Pirellis cost £240 for the set (about $330us), tyres are slightly cheaper here in the UK i think.