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Hi, yes I originally saw your post which got me looking into this here and youtube. 1. I just did this so I cannot say; but perhaps others could. During my search, I came across "vitton" as another option. Also some were fabricating their own...not for me. 2. Confirmed CU216. All 8 included, nothing else. 3. Again, I can't comment for now, will check in a 1000km, once weather improves. I agree with the comfort concern; hence, why I tried different fasteners. I would suggest 3D helicoils for full length into lugs along with the 16mm tapered fasteners and counter sink the plate. I recently saw an update on a youtube video (Mel's Motors below) in the comments where he stated the bike he repaired was holding up 2 years later.... 4. On the inside of the basket, the rivets sit in small wells, on the outside, the mushroomed rivet (the side we drill) holds on to the backing plate. 5. Note sure...as above, i came across the vitton and home made variety. I can confirm, while in 6th gear, moving my back wheel showed the gear moving ~1/16 to 1/8" relative to the basket, so under the bikes weight and power, i imagine it was much more and this is shown in the pic above on the reverse side of the plate. The Hinsons fit very snug and needed a bit of oil to push them in. You'll see they only go in one way. The old ones were pretty hard and were easily removed from the gear ring. If like you down the road, mine starts the noise again, I'll likely buy a new basket due to the wear on the backing plate on mine now, and I'd want to replace the 2D helicoils with 3D. I also think mine may have been opened up previously...no red Loctite on bolt and I believe my friction disks were not in the proper order as I reassembled (following manual), I had to shuffle some, but when I disassembled, I kept them in the order they came out.

Update. I finally got around to digging into this fix. There was no red loctite present when i removed the clutch boss bolt. It came off fairly well thanks to the EBC clutch tool. The heads of original screws (M6 x 1; 12 mm) I ordered were too thin (~1.3 mm) and after torquing them, it looked like they were starting to dish (pulled down). I then ordered some others (M6 x 1; 12 mm) that had slightly thicker heads (~2.2 mm), which were closer to the thickness of the rivet heads drilled out. But these had a black oxide coating which I figured might be an issue with the loctite/heat cycles/oil...so I went as per Piotrek and ordered new screws (M6 x 1; 16 mm) and a 1/2" 90° countersink bit. Much better! You can see from the backing plate, it was moving a lot. If i did it again, I'd get longer Helicoils (3D), I'll check it after about 1000 km...looking forward to hearing the difference once it's back together....

Hi...I have the same year and a similar thing happened AFTER a coolant fluid change. In the weeks/months (i do not do high mileage) after the change, it began to overheat and occasionally spit coolant out the overflow. Would check radiator when cold and it was low and did not return to level...overflow reservoir would remain full. Via feedback here I: Changed rad cap (56$ CAN) - no change; Checked pump, all good; Bought new thermostat (95$ CAN) and tested current one - original worked fine - it would open/close under boiling/cold water. Bought a head gasket leak detector (chemical) and tested 3 times....all good, no issues. Was getting ready to take it in and prepare to pay out big time, but... With the system empty as I checked the thermostat, I put back together, refilled and this time, I leaned the bike over as far as i could on both sides. Voila! All air out topped it up and no problems since. Others here recommended a vacuum system for coolant flush/refill...may have saved me some time... and maybe a few $. On the first attempt, I followed the procedure in the manual, and I have done this before on other bikes with no issues. Recalling another member's suggestion on here, I gave the tilt method a last hopeful try. Glad I did. I hope this can help you...

Thank you sir. Indeed those are the ones I picked up. Ok...no rush with the snow about to fly here. I'll source the proper bits and dig in soon. Cheers!

Can you provide source of fasteners? I sourced some low profile ones from Amz, but I'm doubtful of the quality. They're flat but have a small taper where head meets threaded portion. I was concerned for clearance. Great job and thanks for sharing.

wow, they don't give the stuff away....my missing chrome emblem 51$!....

My local dealership said no longer available, but found the full kit on Ebay; someone ordered it and never picked up. I lucked out.

Cool. I had a CB900C for a brief period...decided customs were not for me. Neat having 10 gears though.

Hi, My 2015 also has this issue and have gone over many videos on this and am planning to do it as well. Yes, you can replace the basket/driven gear assembly which was upgraded sometime after our year...maybe an improved part? But here in CAN, the new part is 600$ +tx. This fix should be <200$ for me. If my basket is worn badly or any cracks, I'll have to replace. Xmas list i guess. *mine has 30k km.

Thank you!

Thank you Skip. I'm pretty sure it is closed, but will double check. I believe you cannot install the cap securing bracket and 8 mm screw if the cap is not fully closed. But I will check again. I bought it with 27k km and as usual when i buy a used bike, i change the fluids to start fresh, and the brake fluid really needed it. But coolant was pretty clear when i dumped it. I followed the manual instructions and after a ride or two checked the level with bike upright and it was fine, so continued to ride normally. Put about 2k km from purchase and only noticed the overflow dripping after a couple of the latest rides at end of season....but maybe i just did not take note previously. I'm thinking and hoping it's just an air pocket and i simply did not burp it properly the first time. I'll check the items you've listed and attempt to re-burp. Getting cold here for any rides though...winter tire law about to take effect. Also, no codes or overheating, and no aftermarket rad cover, but was thinking of it as i noticed some rock impacts; so restricting air flow should be avoided; got it.

Update: Topped up rad and installed new cap. While idling, it started to spit coolant out at 60C and continued to do so intermittently (presumably due to pressure building up). It would also spit out when blipping the throttle. I let it run for a while in driveway and got up to 100C. All hoses were hot, I assume it is flowing. I dropped the oil and it was dark (~2000 km) but still transparent, not milky. Ideals? I'll try to rent a pressure tester to rule out a combustion chamber leak.

Great news. I recently had similar issues. Ordered a cap and should be in this week, fingers crossed. Mine's a 2015...so I'm hoping outcome will be same. Edit: my dealership quoted 56$ CDN...yikes in deed.

Acetone melts/dissolves plastics. Used it before on an older bike muffler (not header). Not sure about after it has burned on...might be worth a try.

Thank you all! Indeed at cold start up, I hear a few ticks but it goes away thereafter. Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll monitor accordingly. Now to look into the fuel gauge ....LOL. I was impressed how after a few local rides, the fuel was still at full. On my way to work this AM, suddenly "half tank"!!! holy crap. Not sure if trip meter was at zero when i picked it up, but it's under 200 km now. I've seen one video on youtube regarding this for a FZ09...so I'm guessing this could be the norm. Shall continue to read up though.

Thanks a lot Skip. It has 27k km. I’m not detecting any obvious noise. Still getting used to it. Chain was very tight. I know the specs say 5-15mm but it sounds off to me. I readjusted very slightly and will check it out.

Hi, new member here. Great community. Lots to learn. After reading through some posts on potential issues, i checked with the local dealership who confirmed 2/3 recalls have been done on my new-to-me 2015 FJ09. Handlebar mount to be done. The CCT has been replaced. Mine appears to have a white dot/mark on top. I saw on-line in a TSB on CCT replacement including two models of replacement CCTs which had either one red dot or two black dots on top. so i'm wondering if mine with the white dot is indeed up-to-date? Perhaps a difference between US/CAN? I suspect to put my mind at rest, MCCT is the in the future. [edit] just re-looked at TSB, my vin not included. includes EU and CA, perhaps covered under a different TSB. Thanks!