ItsTracerTime

Rubber, maybe silicone? I bought 10 pairs from Northern Safety that took FOREVER to ship, but they're still $1.25 a pair or so. https://www.forestry-suppliers.com/p/94449/40770/tasco-tri-grip-reusable-earplugs They do start out a little stiff, even with the cord out, but they quickly soften up after wearing them on a ride. I can tell the difference in a new pair but it's not an issue at all. I get more discomfort from the bottom of my ear being pressed against my head from my cheek pad. Edit: be sure you do wash them occasionally, or you'll end up being unable to grab and pull them out of your ear unassisted. Not that I figured that out on my own. A paper napkin helps add friction while you grab if you're sweaty though, or so I've heard.

Tasco Tri-Grip. Pull the cord out of them, trim about 1/8" off the stem with a knife so it fits in the helmet better and enjoy a nice 27NRR that you can barely feel

Home Depot/Lowe's sells small pieces of heat shrink for 8/2 wire, which happens to be a snug 7/8" inner diameter but maybe too thick compared to tape. I'm still torn on OEM or Oxford, OEM would seemingly have to come from Europe and Oxford would require aftermarket terminals or wiring work to connect

For those who installed OEM... Did you have to ship them from Europe? I google the part number for the kit and all I see is a few dealers in Italy and the UK selling them with no less than $30 shipping

So thanks to another thread on this forum, I learned that my '19 non-GT apparently has factory wiring for heated grips, much like it has the wiring for a quickshifter (which is an easy and worthwhile install). Do the OEM part number grips work any better or worse than an aftermarket set? I know Yamaha wants like $200-something for theirs, and Oxford is about half - is there a solid brand where the grips themselves can be changed but keep the heating elements on the bar?

So the OEM part number (2PP829A00100) should be plug and play on the non-GT models right? The ECU will detect it, similar to the quickshifter?

I guess depending on how you mount them, these would accomplish close to a 1" square of movement. Is there a decent company for new cables? Even if I do ProTaper bars, I would need longer so I may as well start figuring them out

I am looking at putting some different form of bar setup on my '19. I have 3 options in my head: Add 2" ROX anti-vibration risers to it, to bring the bars up a bit and smooth them out a little Mount taller risers to begin with, adding ROX to them and then running a flatter bar so I can mount stuff to the bars easier. Switching to ProTaper ADV bars on stock risers and keeping the rest stock. I need to know if the stock cables (clutch, throttle, electrical) are long enough for an extra 2-3" of bar height or if I need to order longer for them as well?

Oh yeah the MV triples are incredibly gorgeous. If there's a dealer around and you want the Italian bike life, I don't think you could go wrong

I don't believe so, other than EXCESSIVELY purging the system once it's finished. That involves bleeding the system like normal, then going for a ride and making the ABS engage a little, bleed again, ride and make ABS trip again, bleed and you're done.

Either a new Tracer with cruise control and all of the tech, or an Africa Twin probably? I'd consider a Tuareg as well because they're designed to be worked on easily in the middle of nowhere

They are unfortunately too slim in the waist, much to my chagrin, as every review mentioned regarding the size chart. They do fit my Toucans, but not my twoass(cheeks) very well. However, I now have a size 50EU pair of Klim Kodiaks for sale that I need to post here... Or trade for a 52 if someone has a pair

I have a pair of Klim Kodiak on the way from eBay.. hopefully they fit over my boots

Has anyone had success with something like an REI Xerodry GTX full zip or similar hiking gear?

I have a 2019 so the mounting may be different, I run a CalSci Large screen (with the mount in the lowest position on the bike), with 1" chopped off of each side (clears my mirrors) and a deflector on the very top. It puts air right at my forehead vent, so if I stand up I get perfect air at the chest vent on my jacket and minimal buffeting unless I'm behind a vehicle making a lot of turbulence.

24k Valve check, all of them were within spec so I didn't bother making any adjustments. She's purring like a kitten again, and I swapped the dry and cracked vacuum caps (for throttle body syncs) so hopefully that fixes the random hot-weather engine dying I get on VERY rare occasions

So for everyone, myself included, who checked them pre-24k...I did mine at 16k and they were slightly out. I am now at 24k, do I need to check them again or do I base the 24k interval off of my last 16k check, and recheck at 30k?

From a performance aspect though, is it not better to leave hardlines in the bike where they are already? I've only seen kits that replace everything, never the shorter runs only

For those of you who have converted to braided lines, did you remove the ABS stuff or did you run from the adapters (manifolds?) at the front and rear down into the rotors. In theory, those bits where the hard lines and soft lines meet should be threaded for standard banjo fittings, no? Edit: I should specify NOT the ABS unit under the tank, I'm referring to the hard-line assemblies that run out of that to the front and rear where the soft lines come into play

New chain and sprockets today.. Bike was purchased a year ago with 14,xxx miles on it and it just hit 23k. I probably should have replaced them around 6k ago but I was lazy and figured I'd go until the axle was out of adjustment. Nope, the old one finally hit a point of no return on Monday and now it feels like a new bike just from hthe drivetrain

Well, after looking at a brand new one (thanks to the part number) it seems as if mine is actually doing fine. It just has some wear on the leading edge where the plates have made contact when the chain bites it, but the actual ramp that the rollers would touch looks fine. Still, for $14 I'll order a spare just to have it but also keep a better eye on my chain slack

My bike is just about at 21,000 miles, and I've noticed that the sacrificial slider on the top of the swingarm is definitely worn a bit. I want to replace it, but can not find the OEM part number on Partzilla or anywhere else. Is there a part number for it even, or is it just part of the swingarm assembly? Aftermarket options?

Mine sits between (Fahrenheit) 140-ish and 190-ish when moving depending on ambient, will definitely kick the fans on at a light when it's super warm out though.

As I'm sure you've all probably experienced when washing your bike, the seat does not fully "seal" the cavity under it - where your battery and other electrical parts are. Water can also slip in between the passenger/pillion seats, and soak any contents too. Is there a good fix for this, to at least keep hose water from splashing in there? I plan on getting a Corbin eventually, which I think would alleviate it but for now I want to keep things dry-er. I have a 3d printer, but could I make some gasket type of setup using foam weather stripping?

Finally got around to putting an anti-glare protector on the dash of my '19. Doesn't completely remove the glare, as the screen still gets washed out in direct sunlight but it definitely cuts down on the eye-piercing reflection that would always be shining at me when it was mid-day. Also got Hotwired heated gloves, makes such a difference even if they don't completely bake my hands.