RaYzerman

Do your own testing. I don't see that tire manufacturers recommend anything but max cold pressures, almost always 42 psi. I've had many bikes, and to be honest 36 psi front is handling like a dog, worse on heavier bikes, and the tires wear funny. Better at 39/40 front and no loss of traction. Race track will want lower because they want them real hot. Not on the street. All my rears are 42 psi, as most bike manufacturers recommend, but on a heavier bike (FJR, e.g.), add another 2 and again, no loss of traction, tires wear better and last a hair longer. On hot days, a front at 40/41 psi cold can go up to 51/52 hot. There is no 10% rule, but there is a pressure/temperature curve, I believe roughly for every 10 degrees approx. 1 psi rise. It's not linear...

Pretty normal..... weight vs. tire pressure will affect. Use 40/42 on that VFR.... or just play with it and you'll see the difference..... put your TPMS alarm higher, like 52, cuz it will go there on a scorching hot day. You only need the lower limit anyway to give you early warning you're losing air.

In my opinion, Yamaha screwed the pooch on the 2024 for North America. They only are importing the GT+ and not the GT they can get in Europe for less. I can't understand why you'd want to jump the prices up and not offer that GT....... given they had leftover '21-'22's and didn't even bring out a 2023..... headscratcher. I'd keep your older one! Just me.

That is the correct procedure for Yamahas..... also note, you are only allowed two black keys, and of course must have the master red key. If you already have two black programmed keys, then no sense going any further. You can't screw this up really.... nothing will be damaged.

It appears there is a difference in how one tests the ABS system Tracer vs. FJR. FJR has a 4-way connector where one jumpers two wires, hold the lever/pedal and turn ignition on. Tracer only has 3 wires in the diagnostic connector and service manual requires use of the Yamaha Diagnostic Tool (dealer's computer). So, you're stuck with go ride on slippy surface and apply brakes. Be safe. The idea of the test is to purge old fluid that never moves out of the ABS fluid circuit within the hydraulic unit. Normal braking bypasses this and it can stagnate and become cholesterol (on earlier FJR's), block fluid flow. This is not much of a risk on the newer systems, but it doesn't hurt to do an ABS test once a year. Also good idea to do a quick flush and bleed annually, after you did that first one to clear everything up. Prevention! I have had mixed results with vac bleeder, so final bleed is the conventional way. To ensure you don't draw in air, either use SpeedBleeders or wrap your bleeder screw threads with teflon tape (or even grease) to prevent air going in the threads. Also good to use a silicone bleed hose and loop it vertically out of the bleeder screw, and this way you'll better see bubbles if there are any. I also tie the lever to the bar afterwards, doesn't matter elastic or zip tie, the idea is to hold open the port in the m/c so air can migrate up and into the reservoir.

Yes don't get hung up on brand, and you will pay a little extra for that yellow.... the FJ is already soft on springs, so I'm maybe not understanding what you mean by soft..... however, getting proper springs to start with is a good start. Rule #1 is the springs have to hold you and the bike up, without overly preloading the existing springs. Upgrading springs is the first things to do. You may be totally happy with just that.... and be able to tweak the OEM damping to suit. Springs first, ride, tweak, and if later you want new valving, then you can spend money then.

The readings are indeed directly related to the shaft position. However, the resistance value itself is of little value... the important part is on a worn part, it will skip as you scroll up the throttle, meaning, most likely bad part.

If you check the picture I posted, it is a rheostat of sorts, but is reporting more than one resistance. The ECU has set programming and gets info from a few sources before telling the throttle bodies what to do.

TPS's are difficult to diagnose, and just taking a resistance value isn't going to tell you much, nor anything about position. They can test good and be bad, can test bad and be good..... been down this road many times on FJR's. If you've eliminated other obvious things in your diagnosis, and still having issues, then replacing it does no harm. It is a wear item with Yamahas it seems.

I have a Russell sport seat on my '99 VFR800. A little flatter or "less pocket" than the original. Not a lot narrower, but maybe a bit. I've had a couple of Russell's, and next one would be a sport version.......... with a proper seat, your fatigue level will go way down after an all day ride or several days in a row. Worth it!

Let's clarify a couple of things.... the only way technically to set the TPS angle is with the Yamaha diagnostic tool, and the range is 11-21. FJR similar. This is done with the engine off. Tracer GT manual says you're doing that with the throttle bodies removed and diagnostic tool hooked up, which is quite fine. Bottom line, engine off, no influences. You can roll the throttle and watch it scroll up to higher readings, and there is even a high end check one can do, but is ignored on throttle by wire. Such check is noted for the APS. I only mention the OBD reader as about the only thing you have as a shade-tree mechanic, and it does not display the real number, just a percentage. So, assuming the original TPS was set correctly at the factory, one can get in that 11-21 range by checking what the OBD says, then set the new TPS the same. You'll be in range, no worries. Once you start the engine, TPS and APS positions are fed to the ECU which then determines the idle speed. This can fluctuate or "hunt" depending on some other parameters, but bottom line, the throttle moves. So engine must be off to do the initial TPS setting, again as the service manual implies.. Let's say the initial TPS setting is at a typical 14 for demonstration purposes. The problem is, say you notice unusual behaviours after some mileage, there is wear occurring inside the TPS at zero (the 14 setting) to low throttle openings. Again due to the contact fingers wearing into the resistor board. TPS's and APS's are very hard to diagnose, but with a good ohmmeter or the Yamaha diagnostic tool, slowly turning the throttle, you might be able to see it skip... e.g., 14, 15, 16...20 instead of a smooth scrolling up. This skipping is what causes faulty signals to the ECU and it simply reacts to what it sees, and you feel it until you get above the worn area. The worn area is because the vast majority of your throttle position is in that lower range, even when cruising. The only cure is replace the part. It's a wear item. Only you can decide if you're letting the dealer do it with the Yamaha diagnostic tool or you'll do it with your OBD. Why two MAP sensors, I'm not sure, but they only sense vacuum. The Tracer's are interconnected, so one is a backup? Some bikes use one, some use two, and the second one has no hose, is vented to atmosphere. The ECU is comparing actual atmospheric pressure to intake manifold pressure in that case, or in the Tracer case to each other it seems. Lots of bikes don't have a cylinder identification sensor, and it would seem a little odd they would try to do that with a MAP sensor. More likely that cylinder identification is done some other way electronically or not at all if not needed.

Skipper's points are valid for throttle by wire, and while running, there is also the APS (accelerator position sensor), similar in design to the TPS. That in conjunction with the TPS lets the ECU know where things are so it can set the idle speed, etc. However, the TPS is replaced when the engine is not running, i.e., throttle position is at zero. Whether you're using OBD or the Yamaha dealer's computer, this is where you set the TPS position/reading/throttle percentage. No worries! The APS can also be set, but I'm not sure an OBD reader can even see it. In that case, need dealer computer. Just another point, don't know if this is a problem (it was on Gen1/2 FJR's), but there are two MAP sensors (intake air pressure). Both have vacuum hoses and an electrical connector. The vacuum hoses must be clear and no waxy crud build-up on the vacuum nipples of the sensors. That can cause idling issues and some performance off idle.. just saying, while you're in there, check they are clear.

FJR's prior to 2016 had a diagnostics screen you could view and set the TPS value... let's call that analog. Newer ones and I assume new Tracers use OBD. If you have an OBD reader with an app such as TorquePro, you can view the throttle opening percentage.... not quite the same but all we have, unless you let a dealer set it. However, don't you have to have the throttle bodies removed to get at the TPS to install and adjust? Hard to ride to a dealer if you do, lol. I don't have your service manual, but they said to remove the TB's on the FJR too. Not true, we could get at the screws with a homemade tool.... but read up your service manual and look at the bike. Check you have an OBD app that shows you the throttle percentage...... Yes, it is rotational position, so before you replace it, look at the throttle position percentage and make note. When you install the new one, set it at that or close as you can to it. A percent either way won't matter much, since there was a range given in the old 'analog' specs.

I wouldn't get your hopes up there will be a recall, these things are a wear item, and unfortunately, Yamaha doesn't seem to do recalls on their TPS's. To help explain why it becomes an issue, one should do some forensic analysis. Not for the CP3, but for the FJR I dissected one. They are a sealed unit, so the only "cleaning" you can do is at the connector, which is waterproof anyway. I did some forensics, taking one apart destroys it. The real issue is wearing of the contact fingers into the ceramic resistor board. The most wear takes place at zero and low throttle openings, which is where you'll have most of your issues. This wear is rather microscopic, but here are some pics to explain that...... One thing you can try is to rotate the TPS slightly to a higher throttle opening where there is less wear. This might alleviate some symptoms, but bottom line, you need a new TPS.

Don't overthink it. Leave the axle torqued up, that is a sandwich holding the wheel perfectly aligned with the lower fork tubes. The upper tubes are held firmly in the lower triple clamp, leave that alone too. What is twisted is the upper triple clamp to the lower..... the upper and lower fork tubes can move rotationally to each other, but that's what allows you to realign things. All you have to do is loosen the upper triple clamp pinch bolts, realign the bars straight relative to the lower triple, perhaps you can gunsight that. Jounce the forks if you like, might help. Once realigned, just snug up the upper pinch bolts. Simple as can be. No a fork a smidge higher than the other also means nothing. 15mm difference maybe, just means the other one has to catch up when jouncing about, might affect handling in tight twisties.. Anyway, any where close to the same is plenty good.

To fix plastic scratches, use Novus #2 Plastic Polish. Follow up with Novus #1 as a cleaner/polish only.

If it helps, you don't need all 5 tumblers, just use 4. That will give you another couple to play with. If you don't have one exactly right, you can file it flush to the barrel and good to go.

I'll go the other way..... save yer money. I've had mixed results with vac bleeders and have no problems bleeding the old fashioned way, just pump the lever. Cheap and easy! Well, add speedbleeders........

It's as jdub says, the return cable is there for safety purposes. Best leave it installed.

I've never had any spacer material in a RaceTech kit...... you can use 1" PVC pipe if you don't have steel or aluminum tubing.

I'll just say most other Japanese motorcycles using the same size/thread and crush washers have torque specs for the drain bolt anywhere from ~15-20 ft. lbs. With all due respect Skipper, I think you should buy a lottery ticket. Hamilton, you can look up on YouTube a couple of ways to calibrate your torque wrench or at least verify what it is at various torque readings. It should be most accurate in the middle of its range.

There may be some judder, but if you pull the clutch plates, you'll find at least half of them dry as there is no oil path to get them all lubricated. Very simple, coat them all liberally with engine oil and reassemble.

For all you rookies to Yamaha, they have had the wrong torque spec for the oil drain bolt for years, FJR = 31 ft. lbs, MT-09/Tracer 32 ft. lbs. Everybody has had that extremely tight problem on the first oil change. It is suspected that is for a dry torque on virgin threads. As soon as you remove it, it is lubricated so now one needs to drop that torque 30-40%...... make note if you use crush washers, they start to crush at ~14-15 ft. lbs. Most of us learned to use the torque on the identical bolt and crush washer used in the rear drives of FJR's which is 17 ft. lbs. I say if you crush a crush washer beyond that, it's just a flat washer, so why? I use the Honda aluminum washers, same 17 ft.lbs., no more than 20 and one washer will last you a lifetime. Bottom line, do not follow the factory torque spec and strip out your drain plug........

You are not the first........ or the second or the third..... same issue on the FJR site. Yammy didn't put the piece with the top box, or if you bought used, the previous guy kept it with the lock..... I seem to remember somebody made a drawing of the part...... maybe somebody with one can also do that??

Best keep chains on the max or loose side, seems to me they last longer that way.... doesn't matter which bike.