traceroz

It was raining when I picked mine up too! Then it rained for the first 1500km of riding. Even rained for the first service. It was a good opportunity to try out the "B" mode. LOL.

Mine are also showing some light rust, but only inside the hex (weird?). I cleaned them out and painted the inside with clear nail polish.

I fitted the SW Motech bars to my ride. I have always been a fan of their gear, it is well made, and fits the bike perfectly.

Agreed. It's a lot of effort to go to, and not change them.

OK, I'll also step off my podium. I may have taken your BS comment in a manner that you didn't intend. I talk to quite a few people who have been scared into re-mapping the ECU on various bikes/cars after changing exhausts, only to be extremely unhappy with the end result. A loss of overall driveability and economy is often the result of fairly ordinary tunes done by fairly ordinary shops. Sure, there are people who are able to produce very good tunes, but there are a lot of cowboys out there. A track-day tune has no place in a commuter bike. Yamaha responded to this with their joint effort with Akrapovic. Will a good aftermarket tune deliver more power, and an optimised map? Definitely. Is it necessary for this particular pipe? IMHO, not for 90% of people. I think we are both on the same page with the CO adjustment. Put [*u] before, and [*/u] after text to underline but without the * (without the * it will underline the text and not show the code).

You may well call BS, but you are barking up the wrong tree. I already mentioned that this adjustment only affects the first 2 - 3% of throttle opening, and serves as an off-idle progression adjustment, similar to progression ports in carburettors. This slightly reduces the snatchy nature of the throttle by reducing the lean misfire/hesitation off idle with a better flowing pipe. It also helps reduce popping on over-run. It makes no other difference. This discussion is only about CO adjustment, not a performance improvement. Akrapovic designed the full system with Yamaha to work with the STD configuration (with the baffle inserted). Yamaha and Akrapovic clearly state that the STD bike will run well without re-map with this pipe. It delivers on this promise, and I don't feel any fuelling issues. After 25+ years working with modified gear, I am of the opinion that the average rider, who doesn't wish to re-map their bike will be quite satisfied with this pipe. In the context that you are alluding to; would it benefit from a full remap? Sure, but in the context of this particular discussion, that's not what we are talking about. You may as well call BS on suspension setting changes, when the bike would clearly benefit from aftermarket suspension. The vast majority of people who buy this bike will not re-map the ECU. Ergo, the Akrapovic Ti system is a well matched, bolt on component for these owners who want a slight improvement to the tone of the exhaust, and a mild performance increase. May I suggest that you read previous posts and understand the context of a discussion, prior to calling BS on anything. Riders come here for polite discussion, not to engage in frivolous nit picking with people who fail to understand the topic.

Sure is. I used the settings for my Akro system.

I found a YouTube upload that will run you through it. The MT-09 dash is different, but the buttons are the same, and the actual process is the same as the Tracer.

I use 95 RON. I have had nothing but problems with 98 RON on previous bikes, and the ECU mapping on the tracer is optimised for 95 RON.

Basically the CO setting adjusts the fuelling in approx the first 3% of throttle opening. CO (Carbon Monoxide) percentages go up with a richer mixture. A slightly richer mixture helps avoid lean misfire just off idle, and improves the transition from idle to acceleration. This function used to be performed by progression ports and jets on carburettors, and can be quite a sensitive adjustment. The CO adjustment can also help slightly reduce the popping in the exhaust on overrun.

Also check throttle freeplay, and the chain tension. The chain loosens up a fair bit over the first 5000km, and the slack amplifies the snatchy nature of the throttle. The Yamaha spec is 15mm of play in the chain (on the centre stand) which seems a bit tight, but really it's not. Some blokes are running the chain at 25mm, which is far too loose for this bike.

Yes, CO is adjusted the same way as the MT-09. Use the same buttons and procedure, it just looks a little different on the Tracer instrument cluster.

Good news! If it's any help, this is the parts diagram and part number for the Super Tenere controls, which have the cruise control fitted where the Tracer has blanks. http://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/yam/548f2f92f870020854ef8ac4/handle-switch-lever Switch, Handle 7 2BS-83954-00-00 I can't wait to see the result.

My grips finally arrived! I fitted them yesterday, and have a couple more tips to add: - I found it easier to do the cable looping and fitting of the plastic guide on the bench. The screw for the guide is tiny, and can be easily dropped if trying to hold everything on the bike. - Get some extra cable ties, there are only 3 supplied with the kit, and I feel that the cables need to be secured in more points than that. - The new throttle tube is dry, so don't forget to apply a thin film of lithium grease to the handlebar to keep it twisting smooth. Also grease the areas where the cable barrels insert. - The kit has a new bar-end mount supplied for the throttle side. Don't forget to fit it!

Unfortunately, I live in Wollongong, otherwise you could have mine to use. Please keep us informed, as there are quite a few people interested in cruise control. Have you thought of utilising the existing controls from the Super Tenere? There are switch positions available on the Tracer, as they use the same controls on both bikes.

I fitted these ones: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-Mirrors-Riser-Extender-Adapter-MT-09-MT-07-Fazer-FZ-09-V-max-1700-/181450174271?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item2a3f45ef3f The finish was surprisingly good, and it is a simple matter to set them up so that they don't interfere with the controls. I used Loctite, and they haven't budged. None of the vibration issues that some have commented on, and the rear/side vision is now spot-on.

You can leave the centrestand on when you take off the exhaust. Leave the RHS muffler bolt loosely attached, and 1 exhaust flange bolt loosely attached. Put bike on sidestand, remove last bolts, remove exhaust. Drops straight off.

I picked mine up from SCM at Kogarah last month for $15,500, ride away, plus 10% discount on parts. Ted from sales was very professional, and looked after me. Steve from the after sales area sorted me out with insurance from QBE $41 per month, unlimited km (I do a lot of k's). They have more than lived up to the deal on parts, with prices well below the 10% discount (Ask for Andy). I have since bought the OEM rad guard, Akrapovic, and heated grips (still on back order).

6th gear is straight cut, hence the whine. I like it, twist the go handle and it sounds like a supercharger!