steveb

My thoughts regarding electronic cruise control were always that I would upgrade the bike to something else before I ever went down that road. I would happily accept sponsors for that kit though... 8-) unfortunately it just takes too big a bite out of my budget right now. Throttle lock for sure though. I've been using one that slips over the throttle grip and holds against the front brake lever, but I'll look into GO and Kaoko. Cheers. Check out the "NEP CC-2 Cruise Control/Throttle Lock ("Fits: many OLD Yamaha w/ 7/8" handlebars"). I've been using it on my FJ for the past 2+ years. It's meant for a single throttle cable (different setup than what we have) but fits very easily with just the use of a small zip-tie (or in my case a narrow strip of velcro cable tie) to keep it in position. Nice and thin so it doesn't have any trouble fitting in the gap between the throttle grip and the mounting clamp.

Whoa whoa whoa whoa. You did a 10k mile trip? We need pics and stories!Did this one about a year and a half ago. The FJ did great! https://fj-09.org/thread/4366/ride-report-9700-mile-tour

I got the EK and like it just fine! The OEM chain lasted about 11,000 miles, and the sprockets were still good. Put the EK on (I did get the version for 1000-1300cc) and promptly left on an almost 10K mile trip. Never adjusted the chain during the whole trip, and it was only a little loose when I got home (and got it adjusted for the first time). I also installed a Tutoro chain oiler just before leaving on the trip so I'm sure that contributed to the chain performance. I now have over 21,000 miles on the EK and it's still doing well.

dremel is overkill - the plastic is very soft - easier than cutting a PET pop/soda bottle I just used a sharp knife and the plastic cut quite easily. I put my travel tool kit and a tire patch kit (including the Aerostich mini-compressor http://www.aerostich.com/aerostich-mini-compressor.html) into the space. Don't think I can fit anymore there, but who knows...

Are you trying to say that the edge of the rear tire had an uneven feeling when you place your hand on 2 sections of the tread? For example, one edge seems to be a bit lower/higher than the edge beside it? That's called "cupping" when there are different "heights" or depths when the tread parts are compared with each other along the circumference of the tire. Normal tire wear for a long ride without many corners and hot pavement. Adjusting the suspension may help marginally, but I wouldn't get your hopes up that your next tire will wear dramatically differently because the rebound/comp is adjusted. Running dual compound tires (OE are dual compound, but there are better ones out there IMHO) will help, as will checking your tire pressures religiously. I've got almost 12k miles on Pilot road 3's, but have the typical straight road commute. I'm good with checking tire pressures and don't overload the bike. And my tires are still cupped as they get closer to the end of their life. Is what it is.... -Skip ------------------------ I've had cupping on other bikes and tires and this isn't it. Wear is very even and consistent. Every sipe on the shoulder of the tire is affected evenly with the leading edge smoothly worn, and the trailing edge has a thin narrow flap formed on it. Check out "Rebound too Fast" in this link: https://www.bikeminds.com/thethrottlestop/motorcycle-tire-wear-patterns-explained The tire is still feeling good and should be good for several thousand more miles.

I changed the phrasing a little bit, otherwise I entirely agree.So it looks like I guessed correctly (had a 50-50 chance :^), and turned the screw in the proper direction to lessen the "Rebound Too Fast" issue (started with just an additional half turn clockwise). I also show the same tire wear pattern that superfist found as a symptom for this problem. I hadn't noticed it previously with my (primarily) solo riding , but it showed up on my last tour after riding >5k miles fully loaded plus passenger on a new rear tire during many very hot (100+) days. On the shoulder of the tire, the leading edge of the tread/sipe pattern wore faster than the trailing edge, leaving a raised "flap" of rubber along the trailing edge. I'm not really sure I understand how this happens.

That's a great article. Dave Moss is a knowledgeable resource and over all a great guy. Rebound damping allows the shock to rebound at a fixed speed regardless of pre-load. The first thing to do while fiddling with suspension is set your sag. This is suspension jargon for adjust the preload, front and rear, for you. This requires two people. This video by Dave Moss goes through the process. So on a very simple & practical note, to adjust the rebound and solve the "Rebound too fast" problem, do I turn the adjustment screw clockwise or counter-clockwise?

As promised here's a picture of the XL Nelson-Rigg UV-2000 Half Cover on my FJ Cover stuffed into included pouch (Fanny pack style)

Just bought the Nelson-Rigg UV-2000 Half Cover for traveling. My FJ has the Madstad 22" windshield, 2" mirror extenders, FJR saddlebags, and a topbox (I own both the Givi 52L and the Givi 33L). XL size is what works for this configuration. Fits perfectly! Large would have been too small. Just thought I'd pass that along. I'll post a pic later in the week. Cover material is lightweight, waterproof, and seems tough enough so I think it's going to work out just fine.

"Stealth grey" you say... (rofl) So you're immune to radar? :^)

+1 on the review! I'm in the middle of a 6K+ trip and bought a new Neotec just before leaving. Love the helmet! Schubert didn't fit me (I'm between large and x-large). A+ on comfort, convenience, and versatility.

I just had my CCT replaced! I'd called my dealer, confirmed that my VIN was included, and asked to have the work done. At first the answer was "bring it in and we'll listen for the noise". I told them it was intermittent (which it was when I first called them), and that I was planning a long trip soon. They then said "no problem, we'll change it out". They ordered the part, I brought the bike in and it's done. One additional note - I spoke with the mechanic, and he mentioned that as part of the TSB he had also replaced the right side rear head bolt. He wasn't sure why it was required but the new bolt came with the new CCT parts (I needed the Type 1 kit). So now I have one silver looking head bolt. I hadn't heard anyone else mention the bolt replacement so thought I would pass this on. My CCT noise, which had increased to the point that I stopped riding the bike until I could have it replaced, is gone. Everything seems to be working well. It was only about one week between my phone call and the actual CCT replacement.

I have the KTM handguards and did use the original FJ bar ends. No muss no fuss. The KTM handguards do come with their own bar ends but I found it much simpler to use the FJ bar ends. The inner bar mount attaches near the bend in the handlebar about a half inch or so away from the reservoir. I have not experienced any issues and, for me, the KTMs also provide increased wind protection for my hands. I also have the Madstad 22" windshield and have experienced no issues with the KTMs interfering with it.

Nope. Those traffic light triggers are not magnetic and magnets do nothing to trip them. They are inductive loops, like large metal detectors. The magnet doesn't change how much of the loop is effected in any way because the loop detects conductive material, not magnetic material. In other words, you'd have better luck tripping the light with a big hunk of copper attached to the bottom of your bike than a magnet. The way to trip a traffic light is to stop right over top the rubber seal in the cutout on the pavement. The wire for the loop is under there. Stopping in the center of the cutout will mean your bike will not be detected by the loop. "An induction or inductive loop is an electromagnetic communication or detection system which uses a moving magnet to induce an electric current in a nearby wire. Induction loops are used for transmission and reception of communication signals, or for detection of metal objects in metal detectors or vehicle presence indicators." It is a magnetic field triggered system. The vehicles metal moving through the field triggers the detection. Car works fine, motorcycle not so much. A strong magnet can help you interact more strongly with the detector field. Another recommendation I found is installing a narrow copper hoop within the rim of the front wheel. It also helps induce a change in current triggering the detector. Might try that after seeing what a strong magnet does. Won't affect other types of traffic light detectors, but there are many of the magnetic ones around sooo... If it doesn't help, I haven't lost more than the cost of the magnet (and besides it will trap all of those metal shavings .

Another use for a really strong magnet on the underside of your bike, is to help with you being recognized by the magnetically tripped traffic light detectors (the ones that look like a "Q" was cut into the road). Not fun to miss traffic light changes because the detector didn't detect you. Strong Neodymium magnets have been recommended for this. Looking to give it a try.

I think you'll agree that we're not talking about the same kind of "limited" here. :^) After my ECU flash my bike immediately increased its top speed limitation to match the European standard "limited" top speed. Do I frequently run it at 120+mph? Nope, but it's been there without any wobble issues. Like you I'll usually run at triple digits only when conditions are just right. Normal highway cruising in my area is usually in the 80mph area. Again, no wobble issues with or without FJR saddlebags and/or Givi topbox, nor with either the stock windshield or my current 22" Madstad. I have stock suspension (usually 5th position in rear, one line showing in front). I weigh about 210 lbs plus gear.

I'm 6'6 and I'm going with madstadI'm 6'2" (so you're a bit taller than me) and went with the 22" Madstad. Working very well for me! Much smoother airflow. I still get some airflow to the body (no pressure) which I really appreciate in warmer temperatures (live in SoCal) while still feeling protected. You would probably need the 24" version as the 22" is just tall enough for me. Good Luck!

Sounds like they didn't even wait for the bike to cool down!

The FJR bags on the FJ are 1" narrower than on the FJR. I have both and measured last year. The width is less than 36", more like 31" AIR. FJ handlebars are 38" wide with handguards. You may want to remove them. You also may want to get some vinyl protectors to put on them as you my miss judge the center of that opening. I don't think you can find the unpainted sidecases anymore, and that is too bad as they would be excellent on the FJ. I have the stock handlebars and the FJR bags (I got lucky and must have bought one of the last unpainted sets available as they were being discontinued). The width of the handlebars, and that of the bags are identical at just under 38". So, if your gate is truly 36" wide, you should be able to angle the handlebars through but the bags are a different story.

Actually I was looking at the perpendicular (not the black) bolt. So I gather the perpendicular bolt does not protrude beyond the slider puck itself (as the picture suggests). That certainly makes more sense.

I looked at the link you provided and have a question. From the pictures (FZ-09 Frame Slider) I see a counter-sunk bolt going through the slider. One picture shows it going all the way through the slider and protruding out the other side (even though it's not even screwed all of the way in). In the pictures of it installed on the bike, they never show the side where the bolt would protrude on the other side. So does it really do that? What's the purpose of that bolt?

I'm reading alot about the affect of the Givi screen re the helmet (less buffeting etc), but I'm not hearing anything about wind protection for the rider's body. Can anyone comment about how the Givi compares to the stock screen in this regard? Thanks!

No, the air hits my helmet about eye level. As you can see from that one picture, the Givi is about the same height at stock. I wasn't looking for a "still bubble", just less turbulence and noise. Much of that has to do with your height and helmet. Looking seriously at this windscreen. Given its extra width, do you notice a significant reduction in how much wind is reaching your chest and shoulders relative to the stock windshield? I'm looking for something that works better than the stock windshield in cooler weather without being huge. I don't mind wind smoothly hitting my helmet. I would like a bit less hitting the body. I'm 6'2", 34" inseam.

I'm confident they fit both. I don't believe they've taken the time to re-label the webpage yet. If you look at the Shogun and the Graves slider websites they have re-labeled as fitting both. They use the same mounting points. http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/graves-frame-sliders-yamaha-fz-09-fj-09 http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/shogun-frame-sliders-yamaha-fz-09-fj-09 What I'm not positive about (though I believe it's most likely true) is whether the OES fork sliders and swingarm sliders fit the same on the FJ as the FZ-09. Can anyone confirm this?

Snug, or you will never get it off again. Official torque is 12 lb ft (17Nm), and good luck with that. When I called my service dept. to verify the torque requirements, the tech I talked to basically said to just snug it down hand tight (and not by using the full length leverage of the wrench). I grip close to the socket and just make sure it's snugged well without trying to muscle it. I do the same for the drain bolt. The tech also mentioned that the drain bolt crush washer is good for 2-3 uses max before it must be replaced. I'll replace it every other oil change to be safe.