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About estell

  • Birthday 10/19/1965

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  • Location
    Issaquah, WA
  • Bike
    2015 red FJ-09

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  1. Replacing sprockets is best if they show wear. A worn sprocket will wear the chain more quickly. Many riders replace both sprockets every time they replace the chain. I have replaced the front sprocket with each chain (3 so far). The rear sprocket was a little worn when I replaced the chain for the third time, so I replaced it then.
  2. What gear? 1st or 2nd gear should be smooth at 30 mph. 5th gear is probably jerky because the revs are too low. Keep the engine speed above 2500 and it should be smooth when the throttle is open and you are varying its position.
  3. Tire plug kit, small air compressor, small first aid kit, Yamaha tool kit. All stuffed under the seats with a few ROK straps for luggage tiedown. I don't plan to remove wheels or tighten the chain when I'm away from home.
  4. This is what I have done. Then I stack some 2x4 blocks of wood under the exhaust pipes to keep the front end up, but very little weight is actually resting on the pipes.
  5. I used a Motion Pro 08-0008 clutch holder tool for my slipper clutch installation. It did not work very well for me. The jaws are larger than the slots of the clutch boss, so it did not fit securely. It kept slipping off when I applied pressure to the breaker bar and it marred the edge of the "teeth" on the boss each time. I wish that I had purchased the tool shown above instead. The poor function of the Motion Pro tool is the main reason that I abandoned the breaker bar technique and went to the air impact gun. The impact gun took the boss nut off within about ten seconds
  6. I waited until now to install the slipper clutch upgrade on my 2015 FJ-09. One thing that I'll add to this thread is that the pre-2017 clutch has two friction discs with thinner tabs than the rest. They are the third and fourth from the inside and labeled '7" in the service manual. Those discs are not used with the slipper clutch. So when you replace three discs from your 2015 clutch pack with the three new discs from the upgrade kit, you can take out the two with thinner tabs and replace them with the two outer friction discs that you replace with new discs from the kit. You also replace the inner-most friction disc with a new disc from the kit. By the way, after 36K miles my clutch pack still measured the full thickness. I didn't need to use the 2.3mm clutch plate that I purchased in case I needed to make up for wear in the 6 re-used friction discs.
  7. Thanks. I don't abuse my clutch. Instead of purchasing replacement friction plates and clutch plates, I'll get the 2.3mm clutch plate just in case I need the extra thickness to make up for wear. @skipperT wrote about that here.
  8. Replaced front brake pads with EBC HH FA252HH. Then flushed the brake fluid on both ends and went for a ride. These pads do provide more stopping power than the OEM pads.
  9. My first rear sprocket replacement was yesterday at 36K miles. It was the third replacement for the chain and front sprocket. As the photo shows, the teeth are noticeably worn at 36K but not badly.
  10. I am curious to know how much slack your chain has. Can you measure it and report back? Also, I remember a post from a few years ago with a photo just like yours including a hole in the crankcase.
  11. I just replaced my original battery after 4 yrs 7 months and 35,400 miles. I do not connect my battery to a charger and yet it lasted long enough. I chose an inexpensive replacement from Battery Sharks that cost only $26. That price was hard to pass up as long as it lasts at least a few years. I found it interesting that the battery box contains a spacer that is about 5/8 inch thick, so a larger battery could be installed to provide more charge capacity.
  12. What is the advantage of developing good low-speed control? I am impressed with the motorcycle cops in the parade who can coordinate complex group formations at low speed, but I don't ride in groups like that. The only low-speed maneuvers that I need to do are creeping along in heavy traffic at 3 mph. That requires feathering the clutch. However, I have the full width of the lane so precise positioning is not necessary. I can weave a little and it doesn't matter.
  13. I agree that the screen is the largest influence on your problem. My large CalSci screen does not allow water to blow up onto my visor like you reported. Regarding dripping from the mirrors: you can rotate the stalks forward.
  14. My pinlock does not stay in contact with the visor all the way around the perimeter. Instead it lifts off the surface of the visor and then I get fog between the visor and the pinlock. How do you keep the pinlock in contact with the visor so that it maintains a seal?