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stringman

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Everything posted by stringman

  1. How tall are you and what were your issues with the original. How does the sport compete with the puig
  2. A little bit of back story first. I own a 19 900GT, prior to that I have owned a 15 Tracer and a 17 Tracer. Never really gelled with the 1st tracer but didnt really own it long enough to iron out the niggles. Bought the 17 and it came with a Puig touring screen- looked pretty ugly but was really functional. visor open at 90 with no problem ( in fact the wind shut the visor before I had to!) That bike sadly got written off and I ended up with a 19 reg 900GT. This came with a Puig Touring screen with visor (but wasnt fitted) and the stock screen, also with a visor. This was fitted to the bike and the journey home was a 200mile nightmare. This became a whole series of experiments and tweaks to try and get the bike as good as the older model! I tried the Puig with the visor- it was good but so tall I couldnt see over it (especially with the visor, and as it was smoked that made filtered more difficult. I then tried the stock screen with every permutation of height and visor position- all crap. Remember my main criteria was no helmet buffering and visor open as long as possible. I tried re drilling the old stock screen- still crap. I researched and researched and bought a MRA variable. again tried every permutation of height and visor. Better but still not as good as the old bike. I then started putting spacers between the screen and mount to change the angle. To be honest I gave up and started doing other things to the bike. These included the lower (35mm) Rizomer bars tilted forward by 1 marking and the anti slope mod. The suspension was changed to Ohlins rear shock, and Andreani cartridges. The bike felt much sportier and my position changed to a slightly more forward stance. Then for some unknown reason I fitted the puig touring screen without the visor. Bloody hell- that was it visor open until 90 with no crying. no buffeting and, although there is wind noise is clean rushing not roaring. The smoked screen still annoys me on my commute so I will probably buy a clear screen. But all in all I cant believe it. For reference I am 5ft 8 and wear a neotec 2. only problem was that the sat nav blocks part of the screen and the faster you go the more it blocks. But I have cured that - will post about that seperately
  3. I ended up putting the original dog bones on, handles like a bike now, not a boat
  4. OzVFR thanks for that, that makes sense. the rear shock is a cheap ohlins so only has the rebound adjustment. When I can get out to have a play i will see what its like
  5. thanks for the replies. Its just everyone says set the sag first and I wondered what range that initial setting should be thanks
  6. First off a disclaime. I dont really know anything about suspension. I have had several tracers now. last one had a nitron rear shock and hagon progressive springs and I was happy with that. I killed that bike so now have a GT. This came with ohlin cheapy shock with a spring for 30 stone! ( I weigh about half that ) and had been lowered. I hated how it handled. I recently bought a new spring for the ohlins (115lb) and a set of used Andreani cartridges ( rated for 190lb weight) and took them to a suspension shop to be fitted/set up and back to the original height. The bike does feel so much better but I was a little dissapointed that he set the bike up without me being on it. Now to be fair they are a proper suspension shop that only do that so maybe he didnt need me their ( he had my weight) The staic sag was 31mm front and 15mm rear the front compression was 2.5 turns out remount 1. 25 turns out the rear rebound was 10 clicks out. Obviously the proof is in how it rides but do these settings sound in the correct ballpark? TIA
  7. I think the general opinion would be that whilst you are going to the effort and expense to swap the spring over you might as well get a whole new shock ( which is an easy swap without any specialist tools) TBF on my GT I bought it with an ohlin shock but the spring was too stiff so I bought a different spring and had is swapped out.
  8. An update! Finally bit the bullet and bought EDC discs to go with the pads. No judder and a really good bite, so in that sense I am really happy. Sadly no so much with the return of the faulty discs. 1st I was asked for photos, which I provided, then after a delay I was asked for Videos ( which you cant send via ebay) I tried their web contact page but again you cant send videos. So by now its been reported to ebay- which means previous messages disappear. So i finally get the email to send the videos to- but their server cant handle the size. So I end up sending a dropbox link. Not sure why as the videos dont show much. Now I am getting asked if I put new pads in ( I did) and if I bedded them in (I did). It just seems like a massive delaying tactic, why not ask for a video in the first place and ask the questions at the same time? Now dont get me wrong I have used them before for brake leavers and they are great. But just a little heads up on the customer service.
  9. Thanks for the replies. It is the bars for the 15-17. I have just found out they don't fit my gt. I know I have the bolts somewhere, just need to find them so I can sell them
  10. As per title really. I have some givi engine bars but don't have any of the bolts.. Does anyone know the lengthen needed?? Thanks
  11. Thanks for that, I did have see these on Ebay but it seemed to imply that they wouldnt ship to the you and they wont accept messages ( helpful!) The other site will ship to the UK but want around $100 dollars for it. so I will look for renthall and rizoma I guess. Many thanks
  12. Hi all, I am after some lower bars with more sweep. The outlaw TH08 seem ideal, but I can't seem to get any in the UK. Does any have an alternative make that is recommended. Thanks in advance.
  13. AAAAARRRRGGHHHHH Bloody Hell! went for a test ride today. Discovered some low speed vibration. Not being 100% sure what it could be ( but sure it was down to me) I took it to the local indie bike shop. He had a quick look and said " you got those from ebay didnt you" (I did) " they are not true. so although I can ride it for a while now Ive got to buy a new set of Rotors. Money is tight but whats the brand of choice? EBC, Brembo Galfer?? Any others easily accessible in the UK? THanks
  14. I decided to bleed the brakes anyway, and probably flushed the system through lol. Brakes feel a little bit firmer now but I will take it for a gentle ride tomorrow. Thanks for all your help.
  15. But then to be fair I spent most of the 90's and 00's lining up and colour balancing video walls so I am pretty picky on colour differences.
  16. I'm beginning to think the bike is cursed to be honest. When I took the covers off yesterday I found this. No Idea how its happened but it looks like someones tried to prise off the lower panel with a claw hammer!!
  17. Thanks sir, I will see if I can do it myself. I do trust the shop as they arent a standard dealer but are purely a suspension and tuning specialist. I have now got a downloaded copy of the manual. Excuse my ignorance but the only reference i can see regarding what might be fork alignment is page 4-25 where it says to push down on the forks a few times. ( in the section about replacing the front wheel) Am I missing something ? Finally, and this is a really stupid question. When i spin the front wheel i can hear the pads skimming on the rotors is this normal ( never had to listen before) I am getting paranoid now Thanks
  18. 2and3 Thank you so much for the detailed reply, I feel like a bit of a noob put in my place lol In all the videos I watched none of them talked about aligning the forks. When you refer to the version in the manual you mention the final 3 bolts do you mean the pinch bolt and 2 calliper bolts or the pinch bolt and the and the triple tree bolts? Also ( and I am no be lazy or anything) how critical is this as the bike is going into the shop in a couple of weeks for new fork cartridges, and any work on the bike is a pain at the moment due to my leg. Thanks
  19. Randy are your bars any lower than stock? Thanks
  20. Yeah, to be be fair, separate panels and every panel looking different I am. Just not factory perfect lol. To add the the stress some scrote has damaged my tank and although i have this paint i know the match wont be good enough!
  21. So I fitted the new rotors today ( with new bolts) Everything all torqued to spec. I am still a little concerned about callipers though. (never having worked on bikes brakes before) I slid the pads in put the spring in on the top as per the photos and then inserted the pin ( and c clips) they closed up a little so Before I fitted them I prised them apart a bit. Slipped them over the rotor tightened up the bolts and then squeezed the brake lever. Obviously very squishy at first. Although its firmed up alot I can still pull the lever almost to the bar. I dont remember it being like that before. I would expect to have to bleed the brakes as the system hasnt been opened. Could the callipers being moved around cause problems? Thanks all in advance
  22. So they dont actually look too bad. If I had paid someone to do it I would not be happy but not too bad for a home attempt.
  23. Hi all I have swapped out a Mto09 tracer 17reg for a 19 reg GT I was going to fit my TN2122 bars on the bike but see that Givi list a different model (TN2139) I would have thought the old ones would fit. But before I remove the fitted crash bungs to see I wondered if any of you intelligent lot knew fro sure either way? TIA
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