jeff400650

Thanks guys. I finally picked up a fan for $40.00 on eBay. Works great now.

10-4. Thanks.

OK. I discovered that when I replaced the clutch cable (years ago), I routed it wrong and it was touching the ring that is connected to the fan blades, causing some resistance to them spinning freely. I corrected that, and let the bike warm to 205 degrees, at which point the fan turned on briefly, then stopped and blew the fuse. So should I assume I need a new fan?

You guys are great. Thanks for the sound reasoning and thorough responses. I hope to get back to trouble shooting this weekend. Need to get some more fuses.

I found the fuse under the seat blown. Replaced it, and it blew again. I can rotate the fan blades by pushing with a stick, but there is a bit of resistance, as in it does not rotate so freely that blowing on the fan would turn it. Is that normal? What would be the next easiest diagnostic step? Thanks. I have not been on the forum for a long time!

My 2015 has a sort of a sputtering engine character when at that same barely open, steady throttle. It kinda bugs me, but does not really alter its function. Has been consistent for all of its 35,000 miles.

I had 2WD in WA flash my ecu a few years ago on my 2015 FJ-09. Also, I put in a Throttle Tamer, detached the O2 sensor, adjusted the TPS. Even installed a heavier drive chain. It all helped, but that annoying little lurch is still there when resuming throttle application. I am just now seeing this thread and hearing of the Booster Plug. Should I get one? Will it be compatible with a flashed bike, and further reduce the snatch?

I did do that, and it helped a lot. So far, I've done: Disconnect O2 sensor Install Throttle Tamer tube/cam 2WDW flash APS adjust Tighten throttle cable Sync throttle bodies Lowered handlebars And just the other day I installed a new chain and sprockets after 30,000 miles. I got the "best" chain not realizing it would weigh so much more than the stock one. I can feel that it reduced overall power a bit, BUT it actually smoothed out the off to on throttle transition quite a bit because of the increased flywheel effect, I guess. I can leave it in A mode now. So I really love the bike. Every mod has yielded a little more smoothness. It is fine as is, but I wouldn't mind that little bit more. I wonder how the newer models compare.

I had mine done a few years ago (2015 FJ-09) It still is a tad jerky at off to on throttle. Are there any new refinements to the flash since then? Should I send it back in?

Just had my first valve check and major service on 2015 bike at 25,500 miles. All in spec. Throttle bodies were good too. Bike runs better now though. New plugs and air filter perked it up, I guess.Brakes better too with new fluid.

The soft, outer insulation for the wires touch the tank trim on the left side at full lock, but in no way seem problematic. And the risers come with a pair of nice little spacers that can be used to raise them about 4mm. I tried them first with the spacers, but could see that I did not need them, so took them back out. Also, they are offset 5mm forward and back like the stock risers, so you can mount the for more or less reach. I like the forward position. the throttle cable got tight with the lowering and wanted to not return to closed at full left lock, I adjusted it for more free play with the thumb wheel adjuster, and all is well. I have only ridden about 10 easy miles on em. I am about to go for a little longer ride with good twisties in a few minutes.

I installed the risers (60mm) from my link above, and they are exactly what I wanted! They are 35mm shorter than the stock ones. For me, it really transforms the bike. It feels better just cruising along, but is really great for aggressive cornering. Easier to get forward in attack(ish) position. Better road feel. They clear the tank trim by 1/4" at full lock. And they are very svelte and lean. Easier to get my big hands down to the key. It was a bit of a pain to get to the nuts under the top clamp, but I'm very glad I did it.

I'll get the recall done. I tried my Rox Risers. They are the 1 3/4" if I recall, and they are just too short to be of use. They can't pivot forward past the bulky stock riser casting, and the stock caps are too thick to go on over them. I am going to order the Rizoma 60mm risers and see if that works out.

While I'm thinking of it, Is there a recall relating to the bars/risers? I never had that done. What is the issue?

I actually have a pair of these sitting around from my dirt bike days. I used them to raise the bars, but they could work for lowering too. Thanks for the idea. I'll give it a try.

Good point. From my measurements, it looks like the 60mm risers above would be just barely tall enough to clear the tank trim. The stock risers are 95mm. If they are a little low, I could add a washer or 2 under them.

What about just getting 1 inch shorter risers? Are they pretty universal, easy to get for this bike? It seems like the easiest way to get the result. Rizoma 1 1/8" Handlebar Risers WWW.REVZILLA.COM Get the shiny bits your heart desires and the extra height your back requires.

Thanks for the info. I also see the Rizoma MA015 "drag" bars that have no rise to them. I wonder if that would be too extreme. I am 6'3" and already moved the bars forward, and raised the seat. I always kinda liked the hand guards, but now I am thinking they look silly, and don't really do anything. I am comfortable on the bike, but there is something about the cornering that feels just a little vague, hard to describe. I think a lower bars would help. Rizoma 1 1/8" Drag Handlebars WWW.REVZILLA.COM

I would like a little more of a sporty riding position, and hopefully better cornering feel. What bars out there have little or no rise to them? Or are there alternative risers that are lower than the stock ones? Thanks.

Smooths that initial hit, but no loss of acceleration. A win/win. Why don't the bikes come like this?

I think I left it at 12-97 in diag 14, and 11-96 in diag 15. I heard servos and buzzing as I cycled through the other diagnostic parameters, but none while in 14 or 15. You must have a service manual, because I found nothing about this stuff in the owners manual.

Wow, It really works! Thanks for the instructions and pics. Nels mentioned this procedure to me a year ago when I told him that my FJ was still lurchy after his flash with off and on throttle applications, but it sounded tricky, and I did not know exactly what to look for or how to do it. Your post gave me the confidence to do it a couple of days ago and I have about 80 miles on it, and the difference is major. The snatchy throttle has been the one thing keeping me from really loving this bike for almost 2 years. I took the values down to at or near the bottom of the range you posted(where did you get that info from?). I don't have my notes right now, but I put them at about 11-96. Standard mode is smooth and it is now easy to go from off to on throttle on corner exits with now upsetting jerkiness. A mode is smoother than it was but still a bit jerky if I am nor careful. It is great to be able to ride with my wrist and forearm not tensed up, trying to be so careful to not get that lurch. I wonder what going even lower would do for the performance. What is actually happening in there when you turn that plastic housing? I wonder if you could lean out the mix or something, and cause any damage. Anyway, I am off on a 4 day trip of spirited riding with good buddies tomorrow. Really looking forward to it now. Thanks again, piotrek!

Installed the Higdonian crash bars/skid plate. It's perfect. I'm leaving for Death Valley and parts unknown tomorrow for a week, and I feel much more protected now. Not afraid of rocky dirt roads.

I am starting to get annoyed with the wheelie control during fast take offs and aggressive corner exits. Part of the fun of riding a motorbike is getting those little wheelies here and there, right? That throttle cutting, rev limiter feature feels kind of sickly when you really want to cut loose a little bit. I know that I can push the TCS button while stopped to disable, but it defaults back to on after every start of the motor. I'm wondering if there is a plug, or fuse or something that would leave it off for an extended period. Wiring in a toggle switch would be ideal. I don't want to kill TCS permanently, just on certain days on occasion.