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For your consideration, a 2015 FJ-09, 4100 miles, perfect condition and even comes in the faster red color. Single owner, always garaged, never dropped. Great upgrades and plenty of extras, freshly serviced and ready to ride. Admore handguard LED amber running lights and turn signals Evotech aluminum radiator guard w LED running lights Higdonion Super Sliders Horn - Denali Sound Bomb Split OEM heated grips mirror extenders Givi 47L top case with Admore brake lights and pillion pad ECU flash by 2wheeldynoworks for improved power delivery Flush mount side flashers Driving light bar - integrated with OEM brights switch, easily swap your own if you want to change styles Short smoky windshield, with OEM included as well Triple T ram ball Battery tender

Try this one Guess when the forum changed URLs the internal links died, but the thread is still there and should have everything you need on installing that.

@wordsmith I bought the Amber version a few years back from ebay seller "madzell79" who it looks like at one point listed a lot of these, but hasn't for a long time. Looks like someone else on ebay now has the white version so if you like that one this may be your best bet. I bought the amber version because it was easily available and I wanted to use with the turn signal module. If you want that amber version you'll have to try and contact the seller via ebay or try and navigate the dzell korean site (http://www.dzell.net/98) if that's even possible

Those look pretty sharp, and I think you'll like the location of the offset ones down by the radiator. I put some cheapo LED strips on my radiator guard to accomplish the same effect. I'm sure the overall experience, longevity, and ease of install will be better with the Denalis given their price tag. Daytime visibility is nice, but it also does serve to illuminate the area directly in front of the bike where the headlights don't hit. If you're looking for conspicuity and you still have your handguards, then the DRL / flashers up there help provide a nice wide lighted profile too

Sorry to hear of the loss of the seat. Fortunately you can source a replacement for much less than OEM on your neighborhood friendly bike forum https://fj-09.org/thread/6507/fs-stock-pillion-passenger-seat

The compressor is the part that power is hooked up to, and creates the pressured air. This air is piped up through the tubing to the acoustic unit (or horn) to create the sound, or "make the iphones fly" as stated earlier. I circled the compressor in pictures posted previously in this thread. In the picture from my install you can clearly see the wiring coming in the right side, and the air hose coming out the other side. Does that clear up your confusion?

@Panther6834 check out this thread for a detailed write up on the install of the split soundbomb. I ended up redoing mine by bending and drilling out a bracket that came with the bike to tuck it up under the nose.

You should be able to connect the negative from the driving lights either directly to the battery, or tap into a ground wire under the windshield or anywhere else. And yes, 85 and 30 should be jumped per the schematic posted earlier. This is only for the negative switching using the high beam wire, which changes up what goes where on the relay to work. If you are doing a standalone install with a separate switch then 85 on the relay is usually grounded.

I had considered that, and it was really close, when I measured the forks I would have had to completely bottom out for the fender to bump it. But I wanted to get the rest of it finished over the weekend, and didn't have a chance to take a closer look until tonight. Part of the issue was the stock bracket was pretty thick, and I didn't have a vice at home to get it very straight. It also offered no adjustment once installed. So I pulled the horn down and took a fresh look, and saw a tab on the adjacent bracket that yamaha uses to mount a zip tie to hold the original horn wiring. I bent this straight down, and drilled out the hole to fit the denali bolt. Gave me room to turn the horn flat, and the thinner bracket also makes it much easier to fine tune the placement. End result, no more clearance issues.

No issues at all with panels fitting back on. If you look down the inside just under the bars you can see the top side of that cutout, which I actually hadn't really studied until you mentioned it. Figured there's enough other wiring in there that it's covered well enough. Honestly it's a bit more open than I expected, but don't foresee it being an issue for me since I can usually avoid wet riding, and it's tucked under there pretty well. For those that enjoy riding in the rain, you could easily beef up the water resistance by taping up the top side of the notch in the case, or use a relay socket or waterproof relay/socket combo. Since mine's wired up already, if I get the urge to pull the panels again I might cut one side of that existing clear shroud that houses the grip warmer connectors, and stretch it over my relay and tape it back up, which looks like it will fit will with mine mounted to the bottom bolt, where OP used the upper bolt. Or you could just put the relay by the compressor or under the seat somewhere. Biggest difference there is just extending the wires from the stock horn back to an alternate relay location. Either way you're fishing two wires along the inside frame.

So I decided to get going on installing my Denali Soundbomb split, and went after the under-tank location for the compressor install to save space under the seat. Followed OP's excellent write up very closely, but mine is not a CA model so nice large gap under the tank. For actual tank removal, left the front bolts in initially to act as a hinge while I recruited a helping can to hold up the back side while I worked on the hoses. Relay went to the front right box, but had to cut off the stock bolt's washer to get it to mount. Factory wires rerouted perfectly to that location. Put some heat shrink over the entire run of extra wire needed, for two wires out from the relay back along the inside right edge, one to the battery, one to compressor (+). Then a black from compressor (-) to the battery. Used 18AWG marine grade for the whole thing with heat shrink terminals. Compressor mounted with a ~2" strap, and the horn mounted as OP did, bent the bracket a bit and used the provided screw with the stock bracket, which has the nut welded to it. Hose ran along the left edge up to the horn. Almost looking forward to the next texter that starts to drift a bit.

Check out this thread for the details on the bracket: http://fj-09.org/thread/3214/adventuretech-auxiliary-led-light-bracket Made by @richlandrick, his site for the FJ-09 is here: http://www.adventuretech.biz/yamaha-fj-09.html Might as well pick up the mirror extenders while you're there too, they're great. A few notes above, some choose to get a harness and wire them up separately. I did not, as I wanted them to come on with the high beams, so I just bought a standard relay and relay socket and wired up per my above post.

For the actual lights, I added some heat shrink over the exposed nut and a thick vacuum cap over the bolt to at least black out that part. We'll see how the nilights hold up over time and in the elements, they definitely aren't the most expensive, and it showed in a few areas, but they seem to be the best out of the cheap ones (wasn't ready to drop hundreds on these, at least yet) Here are a few pics with everything switched off, then with the ignition on, then high beam switch activated.

So after staring at the boxes in my garage for quite a few months now, and a few life events delaying my install, I finally got some cool weekend weather where the garage wasn't 100 degrees, and took the opportunity to wire up my flush mount turn signals and the adventuretech light bar with the 18 watt nilights on each side. The motodynamic flush mounts were a breeze. I'll try to put those details in another thread more related to that topic. The light bar went on fine as well. For the yellow wire needed for high beam switching, I chose to positap it right by the connector to the headlight module. There are two harnesses, the big one has two yellows on it. I pulled that out and first tried the yellow with black stripe, and when tested it didn't work, but the yellow next to it with the brown bars was the one I needed. Set the tap to point up when the harness was clipped back in. I ran that wire up to 86 on the relay which I tucked under the windshield. Since I didn't have the right gray connectors I just positapped one of the accessory plugs for switched power and ground. Power went to 30 and jumped to 85 per the diagram below. 87 hot out to lights red, and the lights black came back up to the accessory ground tap.

Kimmie, or anyone else familiar with this, Just wanted to clarify something with the negative switching. I don't have the dual-brightness lights, but was looking to install a basic set of aux lights, and just use the high beam switch, so that the aux lights always come on when high beams are on. I don't feel a need to switch them separately, so looking at your diagram, I'm assuming I can eliminate the "driving light switch" and just positap the yellow wire right into 86 on the relay? Any issues I'm overlooking with this setup?