Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

199 Excellent

About stevesweetz

  • Birthday 01/16/1982
  1. I got around to painting this last night. Hasn't been good enough lighting conditions to take a worthwhile picture though. I'll try to get one uploaded at some point. The VHT paint is both a little glossier and more metallic than the stock paint, but it's still a pretty close match. It blends with the stock paint pretty nicely. So I sprayed heavier on the bottom of the cover where the scratches were and pulled away as I moved to the top. Won't look perfect by any means, but I think it will be a little better than just flat black and it's still less ugly than a bunch of scratches down to bare metal.
  2. Funny enough, it turned that the stock front pads did not have a shim/backing plate, while the stock rear pads did. The exact opposite of how the EBC pads come. 😖 I kept the EBC shim on the front pads and like coachluciano I re-used the stock shim on the rear pads. All seems to be good, plenty of stopping power and no noises, so presumably it was fine to do it like that.
  3. Doing my brake pads for the first time (ever, not just on my FJ). I ordered some EBC pads. The front pads came with a shim on the back, which can be removed. The rear did not. I have not yet looked at whether the stock pads have a similar shim. So just to be sure: do I use the shim or not?
  4. I don't know if it's different for different model years, but on my 2016 if you look at the stock case/frame paint closely there is a little sparkly/metallic effect to it. Based on the pictures in the FZ-09 thread, the VHT paint is a little shinier than stock, but it seems pretty close.
  5. Hi guys, long time no post. After 4 years of ownership with nary an incident, a few days ago I dropped the bike on gravel (stationary drop, not moving). Basically was fatigued from heat and just lost my footing while pulled over in a gravel parking lot to rest. Drop was on the left (kickstand) side. Bike came out relatively unscathed except for some rash on the hand guard and quite a lot of rash on the crankcase cover. The crankcase rash is hardly the first scratch on the bike, but it's still a bit too ugly for me to live with. I might replace it over the winter, but for now going to try to just mask it off and repaint while it's still on the bike. I saw this VHT paint recommended on the FZ forums. Apparently it's a pretty close match. Just want to check if anyone here has a different recommendation. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008KIZQ4O/?coliid=I3OL0Y2OYC2VA&colid=J15JYAHWS3W6&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
  6. I just went to the Yamaha UK site to confirm this monstrosity is indeed the new color. It's hideous, what the hell were they thinking? There's a been a trend of North America getting colors a year after they come out in Europe, so I'm hoping we get matte blue and not this mess.
  7. This is a long shot, but in case that guy happens to visit the forum: greetings to the guy on a white FJ-09 who pulled up along side my silver FJ-09 at the intersection of Swamp Rd and Newtown Bypass in Newtown, PA on Saturday August 25th. Sadly didn't have time to chat and make a better introduction, but if you're looking for someone to ride with on occasion, shoot me a message here.
  8. Based on how much tread I had left on the Roadtec before the puncture, I figure I was going to get around 7500-8000 miles on them too. I didn't think that was bad for a fairly sporty tire. I quite liked them, but in comparison to the T30 I now feel the profile on them is more aggressive than I need. I've touched down the pegs on a few rare occasions and there was still a centimeter of chicken strip left on them as compared to "flatter" profile tires like the T30s or OEM Roadsmarts where it's more like 1mm of unused tire. I figure that means I'm actually getting a smaller contact patch at the lean angles I actually ride at. Hence why the T30s feel a bit more stable (but slower). Two guys on the trip had Roadsmart 3s, which also have a flatter profile, and quite liked them. I may give them a shot next.
  9. So I just got back from a 2800 mile trip from Pennsylvania to Nova Scotia (awesome place BTW) and brought home two souvenirs: a new chain and a new rear tire. I had been running a set Metzeler Roadtec 01s and about half-way through the trip I got a puncture on the rear. I rode on the tire for quite a while before I realized I was loosing air. Bike was a bit squirrelly, but it had been squirrelly the same morning before the tire was punctured due to high cross-winds. It wasn't until it got really bad that I realized something was wrong and pulled over. But that point, the tread had been eaten up so much by running under-pressure, that it was well into the wear bars (prior to that, they had about 1mm before the wear bars - I figured I'd need a new rear after the trip anyway). Plugged it and luckily it was only 50 miles to the nearest big city (Dartmouth - Halifax). Roadtec 01 still isn't very commonly found at this point. Dealer I went to had Road 5s and Angel GTs, but I didn't want to get too expensive a tire if I would end up replacing it when getting home. So I got Bridgestone T30 EVOs. It turns out I like the T30s. They have a less aggressive profile than the Metzelers. So while they feel a tiny bit slower to turn-in, they correspondingly feel a bit more stable in turns. I feel like I can hold a line better. So I'm actually not super hot to ditch the new T30 for a replacement Roadtec. The Roadtec on the front still has plenty of life left on it though. So what do guys think - should I just run mismatched? Or do I get a T30 front to match the rear? PS Regarding the chain - I had 10,500 miles on the chain before starting the trip. About 900 miles into the trip, some of the links started to stick and I found at least one link that had shed its O-ring. I could definitely feel a bit of unevenness in power delivery. I was fairly confident the chain would still make it at least to the end of the trip, but I figured since the rear wheel was going to be off, I might as well have the shop put on a new chain as well. So I'm also running new chain on old sprockets, which I know is bad, but the sprockets still look fine to me. PPS Props to Pro Cycle in Dartmouth that did the work. I was very happy with the job they did.
  10. Metzeler Roadtec 01 - I don't know why these aren't recommended more often. Better dry grip that Pilot Roads, more longevity than Angel GTs.
  11. I wear a Rev'it Levante and I'm super happy with it. I previously wore a Tourmaster Intake Air 3 and the quality on the Rev'it really puts it to shame. The stitching and material quality on the Rev'it is so much batter. It's a "touring cut" meaning it goes down past the waist, which may not be your thing, but that gives you a nice amount of storage while still allowing for plenty of mesh area. It breaths plenty in hot weather and with the thermal liner in and a heavy sweatshirt on underneath, I've worn it in way colder weather than it was ever intended for.
  12. This is an old video, but physics don't change and it's still an entertaining watch in a quaint way. In short, it can be cause by aerodynamics, weight balance, and tire design. Try leaning forward...but also, maybe don't go 105mph... [video src=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fvsDIq3WwVA]
  13. That reminds to give one word of warning about these signals - I don't want to scare anyone off because I still think these signals are among the best looking for the bike - but they are pretty fragile. There's really no give to the short rubber mounting block, and the thin plastic around stalk part is susceptible to breaking without much force applied. They made it fine through last year, but this year I snapped both of my rear signals just by being careless when walking around by the rear of the bike. Since they stick out so much with the stock tail, I just kind of caught them on my thigh and didn't notice before they snapped. Now luckily, the plastic just split a bit and didn't break into pieces and the wires didn't tear or anything, so I just epoxy'd them back onto the mounting block and you'd never know they were broken. So not a big deal if you do snap them, but just be careful around these things - they're definitely not as hardy as the old floppy pumpkins. Funny enough, I went to a Yamaha demo event and both rear signals on their FZ-10 (which uses these same signals) were held together by tape. The bike showed no signs of being dropped so I ask the demo rep and he said sure enough they had been broken just by being bumped either by customers or when they were loading and unloading the bike. I think Yamaha could stand to make the rubber part a bit longer and beef up the stalk thickness to make these signals a bit more forgiving to the odd bump here and there.
  14. This is an aftermarket head or a Yamaha one? Because the beveling in the area around the valve seats is quite notably different, as is the spark plug placement. Given how different is it, I'm not sure that it's necessarily evidence of the valve seats being ruined on the old one vs simply evidence that they changed the valve seats, along with apparently a lot of other little details about the head design.
  15. Just want to say: I was right! 8-) Shame that we're actually getting a little worse price than Europeans once you take off VAT, but when you compare to the rest of the offerings in the US market, the price makes sense. Whether I get a GT is no longer a question. The only question is whether I get one this year. I'm not sold on the color scheme. I'd prefer silver tank with black side panels like my current FJ. I also like the matte blue one that Europe gets at a lot more between the two.