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ontwowheels

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About ontwowheels

  • Birthday 07/19/1966

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  1. Yep, just getting to mine at 26K mi. All intakes were within spec, but all exhaust valves were tight. Here are my exhaust numbers: #1 Cyl : .10 & .16 #2 Cyl : .07 & .20 #3 Cyl : .10 & .08 Not really very impressed. Anyone identified a trend in either carbon buildup, valve seat wear/recession, or even quality control of factory setup?
  2. Air Horn Mod: There are various brands of motorcycle marketed air horns available, and they all seem to be very similar. The key is to find one with the separate horn and compressor design. It is easier to find two medium size mounting points on the bike, as opposed to one large space. The one piece units are really hard to hide on tidy, compact bikes like the FJ-09. This horn came from Revzilla and cost about $55. (Photo) My goal was to make the install as clean as possible, to avoid drilling holes in the new bike, or cutting factory wires. I started by removing the plastic bodywork, seat, and fuel tank. I was able to mount the new horn on the stock mounting tang by straightening the bracket. I removed the stock Fisher Price horn and used a vise to straighten the 90 degree bend from the bracket and then remounted it in the stock position. The bolt which came with the new horn actually worked fine, and I added the locknut behind the stock threaded tang for extra security. Orient the new horn with its exhaust facing down and rearward to avoid water ingestion. Adjust it vertically to just barely clear the headlight assembly while turning the bars side to side. I did some fork compression measurements and a spirited two-up ride to see if there were any clearance issues with the front fender under full fork travel, and it clears without contact. (Photo) I ran the plastic air hose back inside the frame following the factory wiring on the left side below the fuel tank. My bike is a California model, so it includes a charcoal canister below the rear portion of the fuel tank. I would guess this area is open on the 49 state models, but I don't honestly know. For lack of any better ideas, this was my location choice for the compressor. (Legal/regulatory disclaimer: Once you remove the charcoal canister the bike is no longer legal for use on California roads.) This is definitely more complicated on the California model. You can ignore the next few steps if your bike came without a canister. Just figure a good way to mount the compressor in this space. But, if a California model, toss the canister and replace it with the compressor. I used a large hose clamp to secure the compressor to the charcoal canister mounting bracket and then reinstalled the bracket. It is very secure here. (Photo) California model Hoses: You will have one tank overfill drain line that remains unchanged. There will be a second tank line which is the vent line. Reconnect this line directly to the rollover valve (inline plastic canister about 2" tall) which has its line running down and exiting next to the overfill line. This one is important because it allows air to enter the tank and prevent a vacuum (fuel starvation), as well as venting an over pressure tank. There is a third small hose which runs to the intake side of the motor, plug this line securely. I threaded a tight fitting bolt in this hose. Wiring: Now that you have the compressor mounted, you can mount your relay. I found a good spot behind the front edge of the fuel tank on the right side. (The left side pocket would also work fine or under the seat if you don't need that space for storage). My choice is behind the triangular piece of bodywork that houses the turn signal. You will see the optional grip heater wiring terminates here in a clear plastic cover. (Photo) There is a nice bolt already there for mounting the relay and it seems well protected from water. Reroute the 2 stock horn wires to the relay (terminals #85, #86) They are just the right length and already have the proper terminals for the relay. Use a dab of dielectric grease on each of your terminals for corrosion protection. Run a hot fused power lead (+), with the fuse removed, from the battery or hot side of the battery relay to the relay (terminal #30). Then run your switched hot lead (terminal #87) back to the compressor. Ground the compressor to the negative (-) side of the battery. I would recommend using 18 AWG wire or larger. (I used 14 AWG) because, although it is only used for a short duration, the current draw is pretty robust. Finally, cut as necessary, and connect the plastic hose from the horn to the compressor. I like to follow factory wiring harnesses whenever possible by zip tying to them, and using shrink tubing at connectors, and plastic flex around hot wires for extra chaffing protection. Check all your controls with bars turned in both directions. Lastly, install the 20 amp fuse in the fuse holder. Now go find THAT kid in your neighborhood. Roll up on the FJ and ask him if your front tire looks low on pressure. Wait for him to get his head down near the front wheel. Test horn.
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