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crempel

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About crempel

  • Birthday 07/06/1964

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    Hendersonville NC

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  1. The top case hardware consists of two arms that attach as shown below. The handguards are complete, not just the outer deflector. If you want more info please text me. 828-595-5006.
  2. Sold my 2015 FJ 09 but kept the luggage. Of course it requires different mounting hardware for the new bike, so I'll make someone a good deal. Pics can be had on request. What I have is: 1. 3P mounting brackets for the side cases. New retail on Shad's website is $183.99 Sell for $80 2. SH23 side cases. These are the smallest ones they make and open from the top not the side. They are not regularly mounted on the bike. I only used them for trips, so they are almost like new. New retail is $249.99. Sell for $125 3. Mounting rack with base plate for top case. New retail is $118.99. Sell for $75 All prices are PLUS shipping. I also have miscellaneous other parts from the bike that I would part with for very cheap: 1. Stock handguards 2. Stock front footpegs 3. Stock front seat
  3. Thanks. Only repeat I've ever done was replacing stator which houses the crank position sensor. Great bike!
  4. $3,999 takes it away. Yup, it has some miles on it, 60k to be exact, but it runs perfectly. Doesn't burn a drop of oil and has never been down. Garage kept when not being ridden. I have almost too many mods to list but briefly, suspension, seat, windscreen, levers, handguards, heated grips, etc. You can see the listing on Cycletrader. Sort FJ 09 listing by lowest price. Feel free to contact me at crempel64@gmail.com. Happy to do a video walk around with you. I live near Asheville, NC.
  5. Because of the ABS system, air bubbles can easily get trapped in some of the plumbing associated with the ABS. One of the key things to do when bleeding any bike that has ABS is to activate it after you’ve done your bleeding and then bleed it again. Activating the ABS will push the bubbles out of the pump and housing that the fluid is trapped inside and allow you to fully believe the system. It’s not particularly hard to activate the ABS. You don’t have to do it at high speeds. Just find yourself a gravelly area and carefully apply the brakes until you scared the tire or tires a little bit and feel the pulsing. You can let go immediately and still retain full control. Do this at your own risk and don’t call me if your biff your bike. Once you’ve done this a few times, Re-bleed the system and it should help. Because most of the ABS plumbing is set in a horizontal manner, it can be particularly hard to get the bubbles out of there without forcing them out via the ABS pump.
  6. Is your suspension stock? If so, that’s your problem. These bike stock have absolutely garbage suspension, which should not be hidden by tires. I currently have the RSIIIs on my bike and absolutely love them. I have almost 60,000 miles on my bike and I’m on my 16th set of tires. I have upgraded the suspension with a fork kit and a key tech shock in the rear. While tires are part of your suspension, they should not be all of it. I live in the mountains of western North Carolina where all of the roads are twisty and abrasive. I will not claim to be an expert on long life tire aware, but can give you good advice about what handles well and what grips. Rarely do you find a rider that can do both. I am ecstatic about the wear on the set of tires because I think it looks like I’m going to get around 3000 miles. Somebody who rides 10 to 15,000 miles on a single set of tires simply cannot comment on the handling or traction with any authority. Because a ride on almost entirely windy roads at a brisk pace, I cannot comment on straight line distance distance and ultimate mileage potential with any authority. What I can guarantee you though, is that if you’re finding the ride harsh, don’t try to fix the problem with tires, fix your suspension which will open up your whole world to different tires. I will freely admit that I have not put the Michelin’s on this bike because no tire that I have found will go more than 2000 to 3000 miles with my riding style and the roads that I write on. Given what they cost there’s just no justifying the expense. Even at online pricing, the Michelin’s cost 50% more than the Dunlops.
  7. Nothin to see here in Western NC. Keep moving. Nothin to see at all.
  8. No, that’s why I asked for a comparison rather than just miles. If I could get 3-4 I’d be thrilled.
  9. I’ve owned erred for people like me if a sport tire might not go as long or almost as long as a sport touring tire and have better grip. Maybe they can handle the heat that SPORT riding generates better?
  10. How many miles did you get vs other tires you’ve run?
  11. Mike, my tires look exactly the opposite of yours even though I get almost the same mileage as you. I have plenty of tread left in the center and the sides are slicks. We should work out an exchange program! Least mileage I’ve had out of a (front) tire was 1700. Most I’ve had out of either was 4500. For me, dual compound fronts are the worst. I live in twisty land and with a hard center and soft shoulders, the handling gets very scary near the end of the tire’s life. They get so badly triangulated. PR4 - 4K, Conti road attack - 4K, Bridgestone T31 - 4.5k (love that tire), Dunlop RS II AND III - 4K. 12 sets of tires on this bike and all just about the same for mileage. Even tried a Shinko and guess what? 4K BTW, it cracks me up when people say “got 15k out of these skins and they have phenomenal grip”. That rider has no idea about grip cuz they never tried any! I’m great with how the next guy rides but if your worried about longevity above all don’t ask which tire has the best grip or handles he best cuz that information is irrelevant to you. If you get 15k out of your tires, don’t offer grip and handling information. I personally won’t tell you which to buy based on mileage cuz I HAVE NO STINKING IDEA how to get a tire to last more than 4K miles. Also red, tire wear is not linear. The last mm does not wear the same as the first mm. I’ve always found that it unrolls like a roll of toilet paper towards the end. At the end of the day, since I buy so many tires, I scour the interweb for deals and don’t worry much about brand names. I do like some better than others, not even a tire I don’t like much, I’ll be replacing them in a couple of months.
  12. I can tell you exactly what the problem is. Happened to me several times. Replaced battery. Seemed to fix for a week and then it happened again. Found a dealer who actually did some diagnosis and found it was the crank position sensor. CPS is mounted to the stator so replaced that and all is good in FJ land again. 39k miles at the time. 45k now. No more problems.
  13. Are you kidding me? Nice! I have 43k in 3 years and thought I was doing well. Repairs? I’ve had to replace my stator since the crank position sensor took a white and it’s on the stator. 12 sets of tires. All other mods were at my choice and there were many.
  14. The first thing to touch down after the feelers is the center stand. I use those rubber coated pegs with no feelers but have trimmed the rubber centerstand bumper down with a razor blade to raise it quite a long way. Pegs touch first and you really have to be leaning to do that meaning max attack, perfectly clean familiar roads or a track. I have no chicken strips and wear out both tires in less than 4K miles. Wear out meaning bald on the shoulders with tons of tread left in the center.
  15. X3 on the Stich. NOBODY beats Aerostich in terms of quality and durability. Nobody. The bitterness of low quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten. I bought a First Gear one piece suite a few years ago for $299. I like it in terms of comfort and fit BUT, it leaks on both sides at the zippers that give you access to your pants pockets. Funnels the water straight to my crotch. Means I leave it on the hanger when the forecast is rain. Shame. Yup, the Aerostich stuff is pricey but it’s worth it.
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