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jsp

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About jsp

  • Birthday 01/21/1951

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  1. I don't think it's the right tool for the job. Run an extension cord and use a battery tender or equivalent. john
  2. Over the years I've found a couple of useful tips for a cool running bike. At least every 6 month spend sometime cleaning the radiator, bugs, grease and grime, road sh!t reduces air flow. Spray on some biodegradable degreaser, from both the front and the back of the radiator. Simple Green or Oil Eater is what I use. Let it sit for a good 10 minutes and spray it again and let it sit again. Then flush it out. That usually does the trick. Some bikes have a marginal cooling system. On those, when I flush and change the coolant I change the mix. I live in the San Diego area so freezing is never an issue. I run 1/3 coolant, 2/3 distilled water plus 1 ounce of Water Wetter. Coolant gives you protection from freezing, a higher boiling point, helps prevent corrosion and lube the water pump, but has less cooling capacity the straight water. Normal is 50%/ 50%. I go to 33%/67%. I hope that helps. john
  3. Tire engineers spend a lot of effort perfecting tire profiles. A 190/55-17 is designed for a 6.00 to 6.25 inch wide wheel. Now put that tire on a 5.50 wheel and you have drastically changed it's profile. The center becomes noticeably more pointed, reducing stability and it becomes a wobbler on a rain grooved freeway. It also causes the center to flat spot quickly causing an uncertain feeling as you transition entering corners. Another change in the profile is the edge of the tire becomes unusable. The last inch to inch and half is now at too steep of an angle to be used. If you want to try something different, try a 180/60ZR17. john
  4. Don't put a 190/55ZR17 on a 5.50 inch wide rim. You won't like it. john
  5. 1/2 inch is the max you can cut and still use the stock, hand guards, switch assemblies, grips, bar ends and perches. And you need to tap the end another 1/2 inch to match. The hard part is finding the tap and doing the tap work. The limiting factor is the perches clamping on the bend of the bar. Narrower bars would be the ideal solution. john
  6. Once the O-ring are gone, the chain will soon follow. I would not clean the chain anywhere near that often. Maybe every 3 to 5,000 miles. WD40 is mostly kerosene . Kerosene tends to dry out rubber type products. john
  7. These weep holes are commonly used in most motorcycle, car and truck exhausts. john
  8. All Jap bikes new in the crate have cosmoline everywhere to prevent rust and corrosion. Most dealers DO NOT do much to clean this off, especially the brakes. On a new bike, I remove the calipers, clean the rotors with lacquer thinner or brake cleaner. Usually remove the pads, inspect, clean as necessary and reassemble, Usually bleed the brakes and you're ready to go. My FJ has great brakes. My previous bike was a 2014 Suzuki V Strom 1000. Driving home from the dealer, the brakes were terrible. I did as outlined above and brakes were very good. john
  9. I have the Ohlins set-up on my FJ. The remote reservoir and preload adjuster are tucked in very nicely, one on top of the other. The passenger peg sticks out quite a bit further. In a crash on the LH side to damage the Ohlins will be the least of your worries. Run with it. Also the standard hoses, lines and brackets are super sanitary and fit bitchen. john
  10. What you are suggesting is fairly common among veteran riders. The front tire is what gives the bike it's turn-in feel. Sport front tires like the Pilot Power and Pilot Power 3 have more aggressive turn-in. Sport touring front tires like the Pilot Road 3 and 4 have more neutral profile and slower turn in. So mixing these tires front to back give the bike a more aggressive turn in but still offer good tire life. Some of the riders have even mixed brands front and rear with very good results. I don't have any experience with the RS up front so you are on your own. Try it. john
  11. Once upon a time a younger version of myself took a class at Kawasaki Motor Corp. given by Martin Carney. The class was called "High Performance Racing Engines". We learned how to degree cams, tinker with intake/ exhaust timing to tailor a powerband to the job at hand and many other important details to building a fast and reliable engine. The most controversial subject was setting the valve clearance. Martin told us to set the clearance to the max recommended spec (or a close as possible) and never cut corners. If that meant shimming al 16 valves, so be it. He went into detail why this was so important. My previous training was the exact opposite. I tried the NEW technique and was surprised how well it worked. I guess that's why Martin Carney was a factory instructor. I have used this on my street bikes of various brands with excellent results. I have used this on the latest 4 stroke MX engines and again excellent results. You won't know until you try it. My "High Performance Racing Engines" training certificate is posted in my shop. john
  12. Tip: Set valve clearance to max spec on ALL valves. john
  13. Pro X valve shims are very good. I'm not impressed with Hot Cams shims. Here are the Pro X: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/2838/26634/Pro-X-Valve-Shim?v=11963 john
  14. Dark&Stormy: Currently I'm running 80/90 hypoid I bought from Walmart. A quart lasts a really long time, well over 10,000 miles. It's sensitive to ambient temperature, so when it's hot I turn it down and in the winter I turn it up. Anything thicker just doesn't flow well. Before I got the oiler, I used conventional chain lubes and got better than average chain life. The oiler probably doubled the chain and sprocket life. It's worth the mess. john
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