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I have seen 2 or 3 bikes with exterior sensors mounted on rubber valve stems. After about 6 months the rubber stems look pretty sad, bent way over. I would recommend metal straight stems but not sure about 90 degree stems. I used the internal sensors on mine with no issues other than about 1 ounce more weight to balance. When I went to 320 front rotors, I went with 90 valve stems and scrapped TPMS. john

Yamaha wheels are .453. John

Probably got some water in there washing your bike. I always put a light coating of grease on axles, axle nuts, caliper bolts, including the threads. Allows a true torque reading, comes apart smoothly and no rust or corrosion. john

I don't think it's the right tool for the job. Run an extension cord and use a battery tender or equivalent. john

Over the years I've found a couple of useful tips for a cool running bike. At least every 6 month spend sometime cleaning the radiator, bugs, grease and grime, road sh!t reduces air flow. Spray on some biodegradable degreaser, from both the front and the back of the radiator. Simple Green or Oil Eater is what I use. Let it sit for a good 10 minutes and spray it again and let it sit again. Then flush it out. That usually does the trick. Some bikes have a marginal cooling system. On those, when I flush and change the coolant I change the mix. I live in the San Diego area so freezing is never an issue. I run 1/3 coolant, 2/3 distilled water plus 1 ounce of Water Wetter. Coolant gives you protection from freezing, a higher boiling point, helps prevent corrosion and lube the water pump, but has less cooling capacity the straight water. Normal is 50%/ 50%. I go to 33%/67%. I hope that helps. john

6mm john

Tire engineers spend a lot of effort perfecting tire profiles. A 190/55-17 is designed for a 6.00 to 6.25 inch wide wheel. Now put that tire on a 5.50 wheel and you have drastically changed it's profile. The center becomes noticeably more pointed, reducing stability and it becomes a wobbler on a rain grooved freeway. It also causes the center to flat spot quickly causing an uncertain feeling as you transition entering corners. Another change in the profile is the edge of the tire becomes unusable. The last inch to inch and half is now at too steep of an angle to be used. If you want to try something different, try a 180/60ZR17. john

Don't put a 190/55ZR17 on a 5.50 inch wide rim. You won't like it. john

1/2 inch is the max you can cut and still use the stock, hand guards, switch assemblies, grips, bar ends and perches. And you need to tap the end another 1/2 inch to match. The hard part is finding the tap and doing the tap work. The limiting factor is the perches clamping on the bend of the bar. Narrower bars would be the ideal solution. john

What you are suggesting is fairly common among veteran riders. The front tire is what gives the bike it's turn-in feel. Sport front tires like the Pilot Power and Pilot Power 3 have more aggressive turn-in. Sport touring front tires like the Pilot Road 3 and 4 have more neutral profile and slower turn in. So mixing these tires front to back give the bike a more aggressive turn in but still offer good tire life. Some of the riders have even mixed brands front and rear with very good results. I don't have any experience with the RS up front so you are on your own. Try it. john

Dark&Stormy: Currently I'm running 80/90 hypoid I bought from Walmart. A quart lasts a really long time, well over 10,000 miles. It's sensitive to ambient temperature, so when it's hot I turn it down and in the winter I turn it up. Anything thicker just doesn't flow well. Before I got the oiler, I used conventional chain lubes and got better than average chain life. The oiler probably doubled the chain and sprocket life. It's worth the mess. john

I have a Tutoro system on my FJ09 (it came off my V-Strom). I have almost 23,000 miles on the original chain and it still looks very good. I'm guessing the oiler will double the life of the chain and sprockets. As Dark&Stormy mentioned it's messy. ATF is NOT the right stuff. In the old days, I lubed the chain almost everyday of riding so around every 250 miles. With the oiler the chain is cleaner and smoother but other stuff is messier. john

When you are done, don't forget to return the books to the library. You can probably return the block to Home Depot for a refund too. It will be fine but loosen the axle, caliper bolts and so on before you lift the front wheel. john

A couple comments on this video. Overall very good with lots of detail. But I have a couple issues, 1 minor and 1 that's more important. Here is the important item. When he is pressing on the side plate, then measuring the width of the side plate with calipers, he presses it on a full .2 mm too far. This is not acceptable, way to much compression on the O-ring, X-ring or what ever. This will cause the O-ring to wear out early and will become the weak link. Take the time and do not press the side plate on too far. Minor item, when he starts to flair the rivet, the flaring tip is extended too far. Look at the photo above and you can see the tip is extended more than it needs to be. It only needs to be extended a little bit, just enough to work. Too far and you may bend the flaring tip. john

or: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorbike-Foot-Pegs-Footrest-For-Yamaha-FJR-1300-FZ6-FZ400-FZ1-XJ6-XJR-L-R-/252831822390?hash=item3addf37236:g:ScUAAOSwuMZZG~Cg&vxp=mtr This looks like what I used on my FJ 09. john

Try this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Footrest-Foot-Pegs-Mount-For-Yamaha-Fazer-FZS-700-600-FZ6R-FZ1-2001-2013-/331616230906?fits=Make%3AYamaha%7CModel%3AFZ6&hash=item4d35de1dfa:g:UPcAAMXQUmFSefdz&vxp=mtr john

Back in June of 2016, I changed my steering head bearings to a higher quality bearing. I was very surprised to find them way to tight from the factory. The new bearings set properly made a world of difference with the responsiveness of the front end. Here's a link: http://fj-09.org/thread/3881/steering-head-bearings-preload john

I know exactly what you mean but that's the chance you have to take if you want to do it on the cheap. After you install the new shims, you want to cycle the motor several revolutions and carefully measure it again. Then do whatever it takes to get it perfect. john

Yesterday I spoke again to Wisco/Pro-X (Robert 440-951-6600 in Mentor, OH) and clarified the following regarding their 7.48 mm shim kits: Wisco / Pro-X PN 29.VSK748: 1.20 ~ 3.50 MM in .050 MM INCREMENTS - 46 SIZES x 3 EA EA. SIZE ENDS IN X.00 OR X.50 MM Pro-X PN 29.VSK748-2: 1.225 ~ 3.475 MM in .025 MM INCREMENTS - 46 SIZES x 3 EA EA. SIZE ENDS IN X.25 or X.475 MM So to have every size in .25 increments one must have both sets at about $90 ea set https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/2838/24277/Pro-X-Valve-Shim-Kit?v=11963&PID=6160227&ref=cj What to do? Pro-X shims supposedly are private labeled for them by the OEM manufacturers I believe in Taiwan or Japan (doubtful on the latter) Hot Cams PN HCSHIM01: 1.20 ~ 3.50 MM in .050 MM INCREMENTS - 46 SIZES x 3 EA $58 or less are also are made in Taiwan and possibly some in China https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/922/10839/Hot-Cams-Valve-Shim-Kit?3&v=5959 Hot Cams shims do not hold up. Don't waste your money. Pro-X shims are also available in all sizes individually. Do the tear down, figure out your requirements, order from Rocky Mountain, 2 days later you have your shims, put it back together. john

Here in the U.S., the kits are $89.96 each and replacement shims are $1.99. I use the Pro-X shims on lots of motocross engines with great results. I have had poor results with Hot Cams shims. It's very easy to differentiate between the 2 brands because the etched sizes on the shim are completely different. Good luck in Australia. john

Rocky mountain ATV has Pro-X valve shims. Pro-X are excellent quality and range in size 1.20 mm to 3.50 mm in .025 mm increments. Individual shims are 1.99: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/2838/26634/Pro-X-Valve-Shim?v=11963 The kits are here: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/2838/24277/Pro-X-Valve-Shim-Kit?v=11963 One kit has the standard .05 mm increments and the other has the .025 increments. Good stuff. john

I just bought my second service manual from http://www.service-shop-repair-manual.com/. I agree with betoney "it is EXTREMELY high quality, with a full color pull out electrical wiring diagram." Great price, fast service, all good. john

John, ProX and Hot Cams all make shims in .025 mm ( .001 inch) increments so there is no reason to sand them. Someone else pointed out sanding will remove the surface hardening. Plus the shims are only $2.00 each. Shims in good condition can also be reused with no issues. john

That's interesting. What was their reasoning for the maximum side of the spec? Typically, exhaust valve clearances get looser over time, and the intake clearances go tighter. The other issue with setting them exactly is that most shim kits are 0.5mm increments. It's difficult to find them in 0.1mm increments unless the factory installed them when the engine was assembled. Thus it's harder if not sometimes impossible to put the clearance exactly where you want it. -Skip Skip, valves almost always get tighter with wear, because the valve and valve seat is the issue over time. As the motor warms up, clearances get tighter, so running on the loose side of in spec makes sure the valve completely closes for better cooling, longer wear and so on. The running benefit is smoother idle, better throttle response, and a much longer interval between adjustments. I've been doing it that way for well over 30 years. It works. john

Another tip: Many many moons ago, at Kawasaki Racing Engines School, we were taught to set clearance to max spec and exactly the same. Over the last several years this advice has served me well. If you are going to spend the time to check valve clearance, spend the time to set the clearance exactly correct. Do not be satisfied with just being in spec. john