duhs10

I had a feeling there was a reasonable explanation... thanks.

Off subject, but interesting that your sticker says "95 RON MIN" for the fuel. I don't even know where to get 95 octane gas. 93 is the highest I have near me unless I'm buying 110 race fuel.... now I need to go look at my sticker.

I respectfully disagree... the front end looks incomplete with the horn hanging beneath the headlights. The beak helps. ...but to each their own.

Contact the person or company that did your ECU flash and ask them about removing the cat... my thoughts are, remove the cat and let her rip.

The manual (atleast on the early models) is too tight as well.

Did not know that

Its been discussed at length. The consensus is that the whine is a result of straight cut gears in the transmission. Definitely louder at certain speeds. Mine has either gotten quieter or I've gotten used to it because I don't notice it very often anymore. Also check your chain slack and make sure its not too tight (recommended spec from yamaha is way to tight IMO). ...and lastly, kick it down to 5th if it gets too loud for you or your holding a speed where it gets annoying.

The OEM bars are threaded and then there is also a threaded insert that is threaded that hand guards are threaded into....

Its not a matter of the gauge being inaccurate, it is due to the shape of the tank... the attached image is referring to a FZ-09 but the concept is the same.

It is my understanding that the one with the mark is the one with the lowest vacuum from the factory (or maybe its the other way around) that the other 2 are then adjusted to match. Regardless, any one of them can be marked on any given motor.

If you search for FZ-09 or FJ-09 cylinder head assembly on ebay, there are some reasonably priced assemblies. Yamaha FZ09 FJ09 Cylinder Head Top Engine Motor 2014-2016 B Part 1RC-11101-09-00 This is a used cylinder head for a 2014 to... Yamaha FZ09 FJ09 Fz 09 Cylinder Head Top Engine Motor 2014 2015 2016 Cams <p>Yamaha FZ09 FJ09 Fz 09 Cylinder...

Remind me which model you have? MA009?

Its hard to diagnose roughness over the internet. I know Ivan gets further into the ECU than most other tuners. He claimed to have adjusted ignition timing and gear dependent fuel and timing maps on my Bolt, so I assume he does similar on his other flashes. I would imagine that retarding or advancing the timing could add to some perceived roughness. Perhaps sync the throttle bodies and see if the "roughness" gets any better. This engine does have a little bit of a vibe/roughness through the mid range under load (hard to put into words). Nothing that has ever bothered me but definitely more so than a 4 cylinder would. I would assume the smell is related to the bike running in a more rich condition while still having a catalytic converter installed. How does the throttle feel? Smoother in terms of on/off, etc.? How does the power feel more/less? Most have a generally positive reaction to an ECU flash... so... Lastly, if it continues to bother you, I would just tell him to return it to stock settings and either run it stock or use 2wheeldynoworks or flashed by vcyclenut.

It has been long time but I vaguely remember my stock exhaust being stinky at times. Just always thought it had to do with the catalytic converter. Haven't noticed it in years. Now running a Vcyclenut flash and a full Akrapovic exhaust. You didn't provide much background info... Is everything else about the bike stock? Were there any other changes done to the bike at the same time as the flash? Is the smell after a hard run? At idle? Does the smell go away? Any loss of power? Have the throttle bodies been synced? Since you are concerned that the flash is having a negative impact, you should call Ivan and discuss what you are experiencing. As I previously stated, I used a different tuner for my '15 FJ, but I used Ivan for my '14 Bolt and he gave me the impression that he was proud of his work and would stand by it and make it right. Lastly. Have you searched the FZ-09 forums for any similar experiences?

Oh ok.. that makes sense. I thought you were describing multiple threads as well as the valve cover bolt with the collar. Likely over-tightened during the CCT replacement. So if you are just using helicoils for the valve cover bolts I think they would work. Although it will go the countless heat cycles, there shouldn't be much pressure on them. A concern I might have is that if the new threads were to fail/break and end up in the valve train it could cause some problems.

I don't have much to add in terms of how to fix the issues with the threads. However I'm pretty confident that the damage to the cam cover bolt holes was not caused by the tensioner kit install (or shouldn't have been). The broken bolt with the colar could be from the tensioner kit install and over torquing the bolt, but the camshaft caps wouldn't have been touched. The valve cover doesn't get removed during the CCT replacement. Very strange that those threads / bolt holes were damaged.

I went from a Sargent to a Bagster. Sargent was definitely better than stock, but the foam to the rear of the seat was just too thin for me. Hopefully it works perfectly for you!

You wrote "1000k" in your reply to the thread which implies 1000 x 1000... usually 1,000 would be represented as 1k. 10,000 = 10k 100,000 = 100k and so on.

"With a new Akrapovic exhaust system and ECU modifications, the 847cc motor goes from 115 to 140 horsepower." I'm going to need to know more about that please....

I agree that 15k per set is pretty good.

This statement made me laugh.

I would hope that by the end of May things will be back to "normal" in those areas. Losing the pipeline just slowed distribution.. then the news said there might be shortages.. so the herd flocked to the gas stations to make sure that the shortage actually happened.. regardless just need some positive news about the pipeline and things should be back fairly quickly. Doubt there will be any improvement before the weekend.

This has been discussed at length. Doubtful that the foam has any effect on fuel or air temps given the location of the tank and airbox. 2wheeldynoworks and vcyclenut (both tuners very familiar with our machines) will both tell you to remove the foam for better induction noise and increase in HP, atleast with regards to the earlier models. If you are hesitant, then leave it alone... My FJ hasn't had foam there for 20k miles and I still love the induction noise :-). Below is the link to the original post by 2wheeldynoworks regarding the removal of the foam...

How smooth the motor on the FJ is really depends on what you are comparing it to. Compared to my old FZ6 (4 cyl) the FJ buzzes like an angry hornet... but compared to my old Versys (parallel twin) or my Bolt (v twin), the FJ is extremely smooth. Some people are more sensitive to the vibrations than others. The vibrations only bother me if I'm at a constant speed for an extended period of time, but even then, I can usually find a speed or RPM that settles it a bit. Either way its a minor gripe and generally a condition of most motorcycles to vibrate at some speed/rpm.

Thanks... I will search around. Just going EBC on stock rotors for now... may pursue the 320mm rotors at a future date. 90% of my riding is commuting so I'm not sure I will see the benefit of the larger rotors...