howie333

Well; It was the battery. It was a non yuasa battery, I ended up buying a yuasa equivalent, more $, same company. It's been almost a year and so far so good. They told me the chinese battery I 1st ordered should have lasted much longer, but I guess more$ means your getting quality, probably made in Taiwan/Japan.

Isn't the AIS used w/ the cat on a stock system ?

Will a remap give a problem to a stock exhaust w/ cat ?

I may use either Ivans or Vcyclenut for for remapping the ECU. Just not sure if a exhaust upgrade would be of any value if not needing to save weight or wanting to change sound, then may have to upgrade air filter, and if increased fuel could damage Cat. TNX...

Wasn't the snatchy throttle problem w/ the 15 models fixed in the 17 models ?

OK; I kind of figured w/ new map; I'd be getting a richer fuel mixture. Which tuner and which full system exhaust would be recommended for similar noise level ? I'll have to weigh total cost and figure if will be worth the expense. Would turning off the AIS and fuel cut off be only if cat removed w/ aftermarket exhaust ? TNX...

So is exhaust sound the primary advantage to exchanging an exhaust system or mod on air box and such if increased HP performance is not the goal ? TNX for reply...

2017 FJ-09 I'm researching any benefits for a remap of the stock ECU and additional suggestions sa. removing cat and IAS, and exhaust mods or replacement. I only notice snachy throttle at times, but may be other noticeable improvements not aware of. I prefer a quiet exhaust note. Thank You...

Well said; Thank you. I read there was someone here that had a harsh ride, and posted a modification of there valving and fluid choice. It may not be for everyone's needs.

2017 - Fj-09 Will be replacing front tire soon, and was considering to change fluid in forks after some long mileage and time. I originally purchased the Andreani cartridges from Fast Bike Industries set up for my weight and riding style. They were out of the recommended Ohlins 1309-0I w/ 19cSt, and instructed me to use the (Maxima 85\150 5W) approx. 16 cSt. at the time of installation, but since I've put some miles on this set up and always had uncertainty setting rebound and compression and used a Motool for preload settings. I talked w/ them recently, and they instructed me to set preload @ 30% trav.; Reb./comp. to 1-1/2 turns out together from bottom out and retorque triple clamps to 19nm top/17nm bottom. They told me I cant set comp/rebound as other manufacturers (in shop); that can be set only from riding(seat of pants). Sort of confusing. I don't have Ohlins fluid yet, but at this time w/ a short ride hard to tell if better on rough roads or handling. Also; would there be much difference if compression/rebound cartridges are reversed (opposite Andreani instruction) in triple tree, comp/left and Reb/Right ? Should I use the recommended Ohlins fluid ? Thank You...

I'd go w/ the pitbull if I don't need to add boards to lift forks forks high enough to clear wheels on my FJ-09 or any other long forked bike sa. any adventure style bike.

Well, I might just buy the best lift Amazon has to offer; and if it doesn't work ; I can return it. Either way, I'll call PitBull Monday to discuss.

Would a single compound tire make more sense, since I'm not putting on highway miles, and mostly cornering to get a more even wear? Seems I'm wearing the soft compound down rather fast; also would their be a problem to mix tire brands sa. a Dunlop Sportmax 3 rear w/ a new Continental road attack 3 rear tire ? Thanks ...

for these prices; you'd think these lifts would fit correctly. it must be the fact adventure style bike w/ the longer forks add to this problem; but these lifts should be adjustable, if not; why not just buy a lift from Amazon if have to fabricate height to make work ?

I've tried stands from Amazon w/ no luck. On other bikes I've had to use a board and jig it up and in to make it work, but no luck w/ the 17 FJ-09. I sold the stand from Amazon , and am looking @ the Pitbull hybrid dual lift. $$. The Woodcraft is slightly cheaper. Which way to go ? TNX...

Yes right side cartridge screw turned counter clockwise.; It springs back quickly w/ no lag for adjustment after pushing down forks, but I'm pushing by myself w/ no help. Should my weight be on the bike and have helper push forks? Fast Bike Industries in Henderson NC assured me they installed the right springs and valving for my weight. There's only a few thousand miles on the fork oil.

2017 FJ-09 Under 5K miles on Dunlop Sportmax 3 front and rear. Tire pressure- 36 front/40rear. Rear tire is in great shape. Andreani fork cartridges. Sonic rear shock. rider Sag set 44mm measured @ 35% fork travel using a Mototool to measure sag. 165 lbs. rider weight. Cartridge springs- listed @ 8.3 ; I ride semi aggresive cornering (east Tennessee). I think my rebound screw is all way out, but barely once bounce back when forks pushed down and released. Compression is set @ mid range Still sort of stiff and semi hard on bumpy roads. Handles well thou. Why is my front tire doing this ? Scalloping or cupping ? Thanks ...

Thank You for replies and reassurance. The hex/allen cam tensioner tool is not available and seems even a modified allen wrench may hit frame. I may cut tip, and weld a bolt head on. when all done I'll let you know how it went. sorry for past confusion.

Following Manual description of cam removal and Installation is IF crank doesn't move from K mark during procedure unless I misread. Since I moved the crank; I just wanted cam install after valve shim exchange to be safe. I see when crank is turned 360deg a few times; piston location is the same corresponding to the K mark on crank. Because there's a 2:1 ratio between crank and cams; I wanted to be reassured cams will be in correct location as long as punch/cap marks line up and wont change even if another revolution is done on crank and risk piston/valve interaction. I've done these procedures on parallel twin 180deg cranks; no problem. I'm not sure what you meant "if chain is removed may not stay where I put them when caps are installed". I know when cams are in place; they must be aligned and should be tie wrapped on sprocket till tensioner is installed, then carefully spin several times to verify all marks are correct and no piston/valve interaction. I thought that is what I've been asking earlier. Anything I'm missing ?

Thanks; I doubt I'll be able to torque those 2 fastener bolts them anyway. I'll have to go by feel.

Cam tensioner will be reinstalled soon , and not sure which Loctite to use on the 2 retaining bolts. manual just states loctite. Red 271 permanent; 272 hi temp; 277 hi strength, or 242 blue. existing locking agent is red, but I'd doubt its the permanent type. Also should blue 242 be put on center cap even though there's a gasket ? Thank You...

I've already read how the intake and exhaust cams need to be pulled and tied to the timing chain while reinstalling to line up cam and cam cap marks. Should be no problem, but when cams were out; I was spinning crank while hand guiding cam chain a few times for testing and being curious, but careful, and need to know if the triangular mark in site window I used to remove cams is located every 360 deg. for cam alignment ( 1 full rotation or every other rotation) ? I can probably test this by marking cam chain and rotate crank. If there's a difference, please explain where and how to set up for cam and cam cap alignment. Also I checked shims kind of early, and found exhaust valves similarly the same. I measured .254 mm gaps. I'm just under the recommended .26-.30 mm minimum. The shims were approx. 1.80mm. The 1.75's would bring it to just over .30mm, but leaving would keep it just under the .26 min. I always heard it's better for shims be loose, but not sure where to go w/ this. Also; which Loctite is to used for the cam tensioner bolts; red 271 permanent; 272 hi temp; 277 hi strength, or 242 blue ? please reply if can help. Thank You...