mike

When I hit a deer last year the insurance company gave the check to the dealer and required all parts listed and paid for to be replaced. I was not able to cut the number of repaired parts and/or do the work myself to pocket the money. They required an invoice from the dealer to make the final payment. Now, if you can work with the dealer maybe you can work something out.

Thanks guys, that sets my mind at ease a bit.

The valves on my bike were checked and adjusted at 18,000 miles. As with most bikes, all of the exhaust valves were tight and had to be shimmed. I am pushing 32,000 miles now and am wondering how many of you had to adjust the valves on the second round? Do they hold their clearance better after the first adjustment or do they continue to wear at the same rate? Thanks in advance Mike

My brake and tail lights stopped working yesterday. I tested all the fuses, all were good. I then pulled the connector apart under the seat and the circuits were dead. Going back the the fuse box, I tested for power on both sides of the brake light fuse and there is no power coming into the fuse. I am not finding a dedicated fuse for the tail light circuit on the bike or in the owners manual. I tested every fuse i could find in all three fuse boxes and they are all good. The bike starts and idles just fine and there are no lights showing a problem on the dash. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance, Mike

I'm 6' 2" tall and found the stock screen acceptable for wind protection but the noise from the deflected air stream was a killer. I installed one of the cheep smaller deflectors with the single attachment point which cured my issues with the noise. If you have the same problem, hold your hand up over the screen while you are on the road as if it was a small deflector. If that changes things to the point you can live with it, it is a much cheaper solution. I did have a Madstad installed on both my Vstrom and Tiger 1050 and they are great but damn expensive. I also love using my Pueg fly screen with the handguards removed in warmer weather.

I hit a deer a while back and have finally started getting parts from Yamaha to put the bike back together. I didn't go down but the Tupperware was trashed on both sides up front, the fender was destroyed, the radiator was trashed and the front headlight/screen mounting frame was bent to the left. This is a great time to make a couple of changes and one will be the installation of a set of LED turn signals. Do both the front and rear lights require the same adapters to mount the lights to the body work? I have ordered a kit from TST for the front but their package for the rear is geared to their fender eliminator kit. I plan on keeping the rear license plate and taillight assembly an just replace the signal lights and want to make sure I have the proper parts to make the swap.

Due to a deer strike (The bike and I survived, the deer did not) I am looking for a front fender for my Tracer GT. From what I can see, the fenders are the same on the FJ and FZ as well as the Tracer. I need a cheep unit to use until the new one the insurance company is buying shows up from Japan. As long as it is useable, I don't care about condition as long as it doesn't break the bank. Thanks, Mike

Lainemcvlog, did you ever find the cause? If not, has turning off the QS solved the issue?

The last two sets of tires I have run were Bridgestone T-31's and S-22's. They both approached the maximum mileage delivered by any tire on the Tracer and my last bike a Versys 1000. I have never had a set of tires last more than 4500 miles. The best was 4500 on a set of Dunlop Roadsmart 2's and the Bridgestones both reached the around 4300 miles. I was surprised that The S-22 lasted as long as the T-31 and just ordered another set from Rocky Mountain for future use to take advantage of the rebate.

I have been using the City bag for six years on three bikes. This bag has done at least 50,000 miles and still looks new and latches securely. You do pay more for these bags but this has been the best quality of any bag I have used in the past. I got creative and modified a tank ring from my old Triumph Tiger 1050 to work on the GT and everything works well. If there is a taller ring, that will be the one you need. I had to shim the latching hardware away from the bottom of the bag to get it to work on the standard height ring so the extra height ring will be needed.

Luckily I was buying a new pickup anyway and just upsized the unit.

Well, we jumped up to a full size Silverado with a 5' 8" bed and I believe the issue has been resolved. It appears that the back wheel will be much closer to the bed which is the strongest part of the tailgate. Thanks for the input.

Has anyone ever hauled a Tracer in a short bed small pickup? I'm thinking of buying a Chevy Colorado with a short bed, five foot length. I figure I will have to fortify the tailgate somehow to keep the weight of the rear tire from causing damage, to the tailgate, when hauling the bike over longer distances. Maybe a channel running front to back to help keep the full load off of the tailgate or some side to side brace on the tailgate to distribute the load over the full width of the panel. Any comments from those who have run into this situation would be appreciated,

I will look forward to your experience with the Road II's. I have been wondering if the new II is the same quality as the old tire. The price is so much less than the old II and the new III that I wonder about it. At that price the new Dunlop II is very attractive and, if it holds up well, may very well be my next purchase. Hell, these are cheaper than Shinkos.

The T31's I just changed out gave me 4500 miles which equaled the best mileage I have ever gotten from a rear. The only tire that has lasted that long for me in the past was a Road Smart 2. I just installed a set of S22,s and am looking forward to testing their longevity. You can't argue with the dollar to mile value with the Bridgestone tires when you are able to use the rebate and get both ends for less than $200.