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piotrek last won the day on March 4

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About piotrek

  • Birthday 08/31/1966

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  1. Also a commuter... about 50km each way, some highway. Cardo inside RPHA 70 works very well. I wear Pinlock ear plugs and hear music/speech clearly at highway speeds. I second what @texscottyd said... speaker positioning makes a big difference. Also noticed an improvement since upgrading my helmet from the budget priced Bell Vortex. Hope you find a solution.
  2. Wish I had good things to say about my pinlock visor... been fighting with it for two weeks and can't get it to seal... so it fogs up. I will continue to experiment. Love the RPHA 70 otherwise.
  3. This video is a good source for many things fork related and what you need is all there (near the beginning and then toward the end). Are these Ohlins springs drop-in, i.e. can you re-use OE spacers? There are several sources for springs, but some will require you to buy or modify/cut existing spacers. Have fun.
  4. Thanks. Hoping they have an angled version. Read on the ST owners forum that they do/did have an angled stem. Sounds convenient to not have to remove the sensor in order to top up the tire.
  5. I think I understand what you mean @clint... but can't seem to find these stems online. Can you point me at the source? Doran appears to have discontinued the MC line of product. I'm guessing that any cap style sensors would spin on? Thanks,
  6. Knew it was only a matter of time... too funny. Terrible advise for a new rider.
  7. Turn the damping adjuster out (CCW) a few clicks. Nitron specified 10 clicks from full hard on mine, but I had to ease that out to 13-14. The entire range is 24. Also make sure they got the preload adjustment right. They were pretty close on mine.
  8. This should become a teachable moment for the dealer that tried to pull a fast one on you. Pay them a visit and ask if they believe in miracles.
  9. Left peg (eBay FJR) felt mushy on last ride. I think I will be getting something more gooder.
  10. Diode Dynamics has another option for dimmable LED (PWM dimmer). It lets you turn down the run/tail light intensity and blink at full intensity. It doesn't turn right off when blinking... you might not like that.
  11. Much more reliable than the flimsy cigarette lighter sockets. Their useful life expired with the death of the cigarette lighter (option still available on some vehicles). I have three of the Powerlet type connections on the bike. I find the two side sockets very useful, and I very rarely use the dash connection. Replaced OE socket with this... Powerlet compatible socket (eBay). Heated jacket connection (it's on a controller output side). Genuine Powerlet. (10A fused) Right side of the bike port for air pump, battery tender etc. Genuine Powerlet w/spacer. (10A fused)
  12. Yes, Nitron NTR R1 with a 650lb spring.
  13. Not a walk-through but just some general information for anyone doing research on the product, now that I can offer an opinion. It is a nice upgrade to the stock front suspension on the one-legged FJ-09. The kit replaces the two OE valves (compression and rebound) in the active leg. Compression damping remains non-adjustable. If one is considering options.... this mod won’t break the bank and it works very well. One could also just have the kit installed by a suspension shop. The process is very close what is shown in this YT video describing installation of a similar kit. I also recommend watching Race Tech videos (here). These are oldies but goodies. THE KIT The kit (FMGV S2050C) is meant for several different bikes. It contains everything you will need for the FJ, and several things that you won’t. Fork springs/spacers (if needed) and oil need to be purchased separately. I already had the springs that I purchased from Stoltec (re-used OE spacers). Instructions (here) aren’t the best… so it's helpful to read up on how the stacks are constructed and how they work. Some light bedtime reading is recommended. The promise of the Gold Valve is a more composed ride due to improved oil flow through the re-designed valves with custom-built shim stacks. OE and Race Tech valve bodies compared below. DIGITAL VALVING SEARCH (DVS) A Digital Valving Search (DVS) code is contained on the instructions sheet that comes in the kit. This code entitles the owner to a one-time custom setup. This involves going to an online DVS portal and completing a questionnaire, but... the portal wasn’t recognizing my DVS code, so I emailed Race Tech and got a Technician assigned to help me out. The Tech asked a few questions (type of bike, rider weight w/o gear, riding style etc.), and then sent me a setup sheet. The setup sheet contains shim stack setup, recommended replacement springs and the suspension oil. Initial preload and rebound damping settings are also noted. INSTALLATION Heat is required to access the compression and rebound valves as the threads are treated with red thread-locker. This is where a solid setup of the cartridge in the vise (aluminum or plastic jaws) becomes important. You do not want to be fighting with the cartridge spinning or moving out of position when doing this. Freed OE valve assemblies shown below. The kit replaces many of the pieces shown skewered on the zip ties below, including shims, valve bodies, the compression valve O-ring and the rebound piston band. There are several packets of shims in the box, but they’re NOT sorted or labeled with anything meaningful… so you basically have to sift through the pile to find the ones listed on the setup sheet. A digital Vernier caliper will make the task easy enough. Shims sorted in required order... The Race Tech setup sheet also required drilling a 1.3mm bleed hole in the compression valve body… which wasn’t very difficult. Some kits will come with the hole per-drilled. The OE rebound stack included a mid-valve, which the new configuration removes, leaving just the check plate in place. The space vacated by the mid-valve shims needed to be taken up with a spacer during re-assembly. The O-ring (compression) and the piston band (rebound) aren’t in the image. They went on just in time for installation into the cartridge. SUSPENSION OIL The DVS sheet specifies oil type and levels for each fork leg. The specified Race Tech oil is super expensive, so I used it only in the re-valved active leg. Filled the dead leg with inexpensive oil as it is only there to create an air spring, and for general lubrication. The setup called for 110mm in one leg, and 130mm in the other, measured from the top of a fully collapsed outer tube. The inner tubes (stanchions) on our bikes happen to have not one, but two equalizing holes toward the top of the tube, with the lower of the two being at ~130mm. This meant that the leg with the oil level specified at 110mm couldn’t simply be filled to that level as the oil would also fill the space between the tubes, leaving next to no air left in there. Race Tech was unaware... huh? I filled to 130mm and then added the equivalent to the 20mm required (~22cc). RACE TECH SUPPORT Getting assistance from Race Tech was an exercise in patience. It took a couple of days to receive response to queries… and there were a few. The work was done in the off-season, so thankfully this didn’t cost me riding time. RESULTS The feel is much improved and more precise, with great road feedback. The DVS sheet specified 6 clicks out from full hard, and that was a pretty good place to start… I ended backing it off one more click. Might have to change that back a click when summer rolls around and oil thins out a bit. Haven’t done any aggressive riding yet as the roads are still filthy, but I am very pleased thus far.
  14. I was charged the equivalent of 13% HST on the total that included the item and shipping. Fair enough IMO. I am planning to scoot out to Royal this Saturday afternoon, if you want a demo... PM me. Who knows... you might hate it. Oops ...looks like I might have confused your location with another member.