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piotrek

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piotrek last won the day on January 17

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About piotrek

  • Birthday 08/31/1966

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  • Location
    S.Ontario
  • Bike
    2015 FJ-09

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  1. I have re-routed my cables when I installed bar risers a few years back. Made a significant difference and has been working great. See if that would work for you...
  2. Not a good option if vacuum pump is your preferred way to bleed, and really would just defeat the purpose. I used a syringe to purge old lines when I was installing the SS kit... which worked slooow but okay. In retrospect I should have just installed standard OE bleeders for the entire line change process and then swap them back when done.
  3. Stainless steel spring Stainless steel ball Brass retainer As noted in my post, mine are working great... but I accept that you are not a fan.
  4. Nope... not stainless, and no issues. Most OE bleeders aren't stainless. Bleed once a year and all's good. Long periods between service and in harsh environments... sure. I used vacuum (large syringe) with okay results to help bleed after replacing lines, just to advance things a bit... but otherwise just a regular bleed process, only more convenient.
  5. Just be mindful to check that slack a full lock to the right, and make sure the throttle still snaps back cleanly.
  6. I installed speed bleeders all around 3 seasons ago... recommend. The goop on the threads will eventually need to be re-applied, but so far so good... bleeding is a snap. Brakes work like a charm.
  7. I ride the first generation bike (2015), but I think the suspension issue for heavier riders/loads is universal across the model years. I suspect that you will find it lacking. Heavier springs up front and a new shock, especially if you're going to take on a pillion. Ride it for a bit and let the kinks come to the fore... decide then for yourself where you'll need improvements.
  8. ...did you file down the threads on the socket rather than enlarge the opening? Just use a curved file and work the opening. It should only need a millimetre or so. Brush on some rust/chassis paint on the exposed steel edge and you're done.
  9. You could also just replace that bolt with a standard hex head and then use a combination wrench. I am thinking that this would allow you to do this routine without loosening the chain.
  10. Lubed it that way a couple of times... trouble is, that just washes the grease away, but still better than nothing. The brake side is pretty much in the clear. I no longer have the OE brake light switch in there... so there is room to work.
  11. Brake pedal pivot shaft components showing some wear, but again... nothing unexpected.
  12. I don't remember how much space you would have in there... but maybe just loosen the chain to get it out of the way and cut the key short to just engage properly and still clear the muffler.
  13. It is a push pin that you need to pry up (just under the pin cap) with a small screwdriver. The screw collar on the socket is just tight. There is also a rubber gasket keeping it tight. Punch the collar loose in CCW direction with a screwdriver or a small punch.
  14. I have an aftermarket pipe on the bike. I forgot just how greedy for space that OE muffler was.
  15. Major maintenance done for the season... looked through the service manual for a simple make-work project. Cleaned and greased the shift pedal pivot shaft. A little bit of wear on the shaft and the sleeve, but not bad for 5 years (photos). Brake pedal pivot shaft next.
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