piotrek

Like others on here, I highly recommend doing this. That awful racket at idle in neutral is all but gone, as is the low speed/RPM judder (in traffic, for example). I also recommend taking the shine off the clutch plates with a scouring pad... and shuffling the friction plates a bit (still maintaining thickness order of course). The whole thing feels new, quiet and tight when done. A new clutch basket is another route... but $$.

Best of luck... and enjoy motoring in whatever form it takes for you from here on. 🖐️🙂

Hey @skipperT... I'd change that threat title to something else, like "Anyone using WP Suspension?"... or some such. It's not really a poll. 🙂

This is true... I have my 2015 now where I want it, but in fairness... it took some effort/money. @kyle J... the first gen bikes might become a bit of a handful with upgrades/fixes. I'd aim for something more recent if you want to start riding and not have to fuss with much. Some upgrades (ergonomics, comfort... ) will be inevitable. 😐

Appreciate your feedback on KM1 tires. Have you had any time in the wet and/or loaded for touring? I am seeing these tires priced low up here in Ontario... and I will be looking to replace Dunlop Mutants soon. They were great value last year... but no more. Roadsmart 3 are runner-up, at some 40% premium. I don't really care for my tires to last longer than a season (~10K-12K kms)... and actually prefer to start with a new set each year rather than have to deal with replacement mid-season... so this might work out well.

I have also said this... and I am now grateful for being able to give my wrist a break on longer, uninspiring stretches. The throttle effort/spring mod is also an excellent idea. 🙂

The stock bar on the FJ had very little sweep, and that put pressure on my hands in a way that caused my palms to go numb from vibration. I had to install grip puppies for some relief, but that made the grips fat. I installed risers and a bar with a better sweep... all is well now, and the grip puppies are gone.

Annoying... yes. I am not sure the search results will improve, but the nag screens will disappear when you open your wallet to help keep the lights on. 🙂

I can see why. I've worn these now for several half day rides, and I am happy with them. About the same wind and engine/exhaust noise attenuation (maybe a bit better for speech) as the 3M 1100 plugs, but without the pressure of expanding foam and the resultant fatigue. They lock into the ears easily and stay in place. I probably overpaid, but I'll just let that slide and enjoy the comfort. My kid talked me into getting these... I owe her lunch. 🙂

Hello Kyle. What were you riding 30 years ago? Are you a "sporty" rider or do you prefer to chill more? The FJ/Tracer is quite a bit punchier than the other bikes you mentioned. This might appeal to you... or maybe not. The 2015 FJ is certainly not without issues (like most bikes). The 2020 Tracer fixes some of them, but if you're a heavier rider... you might still find yourself wanting to upgrade the suspension. Some upgrades may become inevitable, regardless of bike... seat, windscreen etc. Would you do your own work, or would you rely on the shop for upgrades etc? Could be that the stock FJ works for you just fine. I am sure some on here will attest to that. Ride these bikes if you can and see which one feels most natural to you. If you can't ride them... tough call indeed (YouTube reviews). Good luck. 🙂

I had my NTR-R1 shock serviced in February, and the tech suggested that I up-size the spring a bit to ease up on preload. Nitron spring was stupid money. Race Tech was a bit less expensive... then I remembered Eibach. Sure enough... I found the right size at an auto performance retailer at about half the price of a Race Tech branded spring. Worth checking here if you need a spring for your shock... https://eibach.com/category/race

Tagging @Cruizin for assistance.

Thanks @jeff_s. I like your idea... and I'd do the same for a tail box if I had a spare pillion seat. Have any more detail on how you mounted the box? My perch could probably be 5mm lower and still allow for rear seat removal, but it is what it is. It works great. 🙂

Well... at least we'll agree on this. 🙂

Hmm... how can the readings not be directly related to position of the shaft? I tested this on my bike... and the values reletive to shaft position are repeatable. 🤔 These are redundant tracks and wipers in the photos... both basically pots as shown in the manual. APS is built the same way.

I am also thinking the following... resistance values of the pot can be measured with the throttle plates closed before removal. I have done this to check the sensor, and the manual offers a range to check against. The new sensor can be set to near-same value in advance of installation, then tweaked using the few degrees of adjustment available. The 11-21 is a ECU translated value that's just easier to use. I've never had to replace the TPS, but this sounds doable without any other tools other than an ohmmeter.... no?

Took the bike out for our first ride of 2024. The shock came back from service and I managed to finish things up last weekend. The fork re-valve works great, and the clutch basket is finally nice and quiet. New LiFePO4 battery... cranks mad. Feels good to be on the bike again. 🙂

SH38X looks very nice. The only issue is weight IMO... same whether collapsed (~27L) or expanded to 38L. 40% volume increase when expanded according to website. My everyday SH23 cases are very light in comparison to my SH36 touring cases. I imagine the SH38X is heavier than SH36... but I suppose there's convenience in only having one set of cases. 👍

In the excitement of the motorcycle show... I got myself fitted for molded ear plugs yesterday. I opted for the non-filtered type for simplicity's sake. Foam plugs worked well enough for much of the time, but not so in hot temperatures (difficult for me to insert). Hope to still be able to hear my communicator. 😬

I am extending the life of my RPHA 70 ST just a bit, with a new visor and new (thinner) cheek pads. The original visor developed cracks around the latch assembly (photo). I am going to try thinner cheek pads for a little more speaking comfort. I should have done this sooner, but have just recently discovered that L/XL cheek pads will fit the S shell. The sales guy had initially told me this was not possible due to snap-in locations. Not true. 😒

They are the same. Each side has three cable mounting options.

I installed the NOCO NLP14 (LiFePO4) battery just today (FJ-09). The YTZ10S was roughly the same price, but I decided to try lithium... partly for the 4.3 lb weight saving, but mostly out of curiosity. I also picked up a new NOCO charger/maintainer (Genius2). We shall see how I get on with this setup. Interestingly, I found this same battery on the Yamaha Motor website...here. I suppose I will take that as a good sign. The terminals on the NOCO are rather odd... so the installation was not a simple drop-in. I had to modify cable ends, flip the foam spacer from back to front and a tweak the side of the battery tray just a bit. The boot on the (+) cable had to go, so I'll get something else on there. I am happy with the installation overall. I will update as/if i run into any drama during the course of the season.

https://obradvgear.com/

Another speed bleeder user here. I had limited success with an in-line check valve, but I suspect that it was defective (the valve didn't hold well). I have on occasion used a large syringe. 😁

I found this piece here an interesting read. No relevance to the maintenance aspect of the filter... and for that I apologize. 😛 Sounds like you already have it in hand... so might as well give it a go. 🙂