How2

Ok- I have some time now for this and am finding this post is the most complete take on the project. Tinkered with the OE arrangement, but that is definitely not rig-able. The GIVI looks the simplest and most cost effective, especially if the clear is wrapped in vinyl for protection and durability. Thanks for feedback

hmmmm Just got the BB in the mail today. I'll take a look / see at this and decide if there has to be a full kit install to make a clean run at this project. more to come. thanks for feedback. H2

Yep took some time. Never understood why the Yams are so blah. With some rethinking the design, they can hold their own. Hmmmm Thought the guards might be a plug and play. Once I get the BB , I will see what is simple and do-able.

Bark busters are $45 on Amazon. Those might do the business- thanks ! yep - mine. some time and paint Maybe this resized photo will show

Hello I have a 15 and want to replace the hand guards. Can someone send the link to the pick of the litter for handguards? Its getting colder so its time to update thanks

Hello Ivan did my flash which ticked all the boxes I was looking for. Today we talked. His rec is no other mods (filter, box etc) are needed to be done with his tune. Just curious what mods users have done, along the lines above with rationale for why btw I already have steel lines and full Ohlins thanks

hello My 15 has been flashed 3 years ago and now I am going with a full system this week. Tuning steps I heard were sometime before making the decision to go with a full exhaust Word back then was when paring a full system with a ECU flash that other items should be used , such as block off plates and closing off the "air pump" (what ever that is). Recently, I have seen some vids with opening up the air box (dunno why). A tuner mentioned that after an ECU and exhaust, mid grade fuel is needed. I would like to know from users who did the ECU and full exhaust what other items you did to fully tune the engine. No disrespect, am looking for experience wrench heads PM me if you would.

hello I am servicing my bike b4 a trip and noticed slop in the linkage (horizontally) when tightening the rear wheel axle bolt: horizontal "slop" and a moderate "clunk". So I replaced the linkage needle bearings. On reinstall I still have the slop with a "clunk" sound when appling torque when fine tuning the axle bolt torque. The question is: when you have yours on the center stand, and you are tightening the axle bolt, is there any "slop" or "clunk" sound ? Since yours is a newer year, I thought you might have some observation of the rear bearing integrity.

RR Did you replace the bearings with roller or ball? Hello I replaced them with roller bearings, but the seal that comes with the bearing has to be and can properly be modified. The OEM seal is a canister seal that is designed for the ball / race system. It is not the correct seal for the taper bearing because it limits the movement of the taper bearing cage. The taper bearing kit has the OEM seal that is not made for that design. The bearing manufacturer SKF has the correct seal for the taper bearing. But it is not sold separately from the bearing. The All Balls kit has the incorrect OEM seal, that nobody checks. I use the taper in all my bikes once the OEM seal is modified. It seals correctly into the frame and Triple Clamp assembly. In my view the taper bearing set up is superior to the stock one. I just replaced the shock linkage needle bearings and there was no grease in the stock parts. What is Yamaha thinking? Definately, definately, grease and adjustment are the thing to do, a water proof grease is what I use. Peace out H2

I would like to know more about the full Delkevic system. particularly regarding performance gains. BTW - the ECU was flashed by Ivan and this took out all the problems spoken about. Please PM me as the stock exhaust is a pain to deal with when servicing the related areas.

Hello Let me begin with: I am not interested in changing the system for noise/ sound. I would like to know if there are any Delkevic owners who can attest to the performance gain with using their full system? What gain did you see? The ebay site states an 8 hp Dyno chart gain with out re- mapping- that is very unlikely for a number of reasons. Any experience users here? thanks

I had 2 set of tires do this. The problem was that the headset bearings were nicked Under 18k miles. Yamaha is notorious for not putting enough grease in their headsets or swing arms. There is a test to see if the steering bearings are nicked. You do have to drop the wheel and front forks to do that. I took it to a shop to check it but they just lifted the front end an moved the bars. They said the bearings were ok. But they were not on inspection as described. Once the bearings were changed, the problem was solved. Peace out

Hello I found the dust seal, thanks for the photos BTW taking out the bearings is simple, not complicated or hazardous to the seal areas. Its the install that is tricky as hell, as the bearing races resist drifting in straight. The specialty tools are the way to go. Also for taper bearing kits they come with the stock crown type "canister" seal, which are not designed for taper bearings. However, the supplied seal can be modified to be compatible with the roller bearing to move and feel as it was designed with no adverse steering feel.

hello That would be great if you have an old bearing in hand for a photo. Thanks WW

Hello During a service check, I noticed the front wheel bearings need replacement as there is side to side" play in the front wheel. Does any one have the actual bearing numbers stamped on the original Koyo bearing? Am looking into SFK,NSK or Timken bearings as an option to the KOYO. thanks H2