pcarnut

^ This is the method I use. Front wheel off first by lifting with a jack under the headers,(rear wheel touching while doing this), then lower the forks on to block or crate and remove rear wheel.

Carlsbad CA

I wonder if fitting the slipper clutch would help this? I'd gladly pay the $300 to get rid of this rattle in the clutch and harsh feeling in the pegs. I recently fitted the APE manual tension adjuster hoping it might help, but no appreciable difference.

Hey Matt, yes I understand its the nature of engaging the gears but some bikes make a modest snick while this bike goes in with the loudest clunk I can recall.

Curious how many miles your bike has and was your clutch ever noisy an if so did the slipper install solve it? In the past 1500 miles (now at about 11k or so mine has started sounding quite gravely/coarse, so much so that I can feel it in the frame and footpegs at light load. Trying to figure out if its the clutch basket or CCT.

"This listing has been disabled, and is no longer available." Sadface. D: Found this seller and manual on another site. Is it an official version or one the somebody has photocopied and is reselling, basically a bootlegged version? Am not interested in supporting them if so.

Well, after much testing of wires, and finally a call to Clearwater Lights, turns out for the FJ-09's LED headlights, a 12V trigger wire solution is not currently available. For those not familiar with the Clearwater lights, they are dimmable which allows you to run with the lights at less than full bright, but with a relay, when you trigger the horn and/or high beam, they will go full bright. I use my Darlas primarily for daytime conspicuity with amber lens. The horn trigger still works so when I hit the horn I get full bright on the Darlas but no luck finding a high beam trigger for now. Clearwater is aware of the problem and is working on a solution. In the meantime the best alternative solution is to run Clearwater's white high beam trigger wire to a 12v source via a switch, which is what I ended up doing. This manually trips the relay and you get full bright. If someone has a better solution, please post! For those with other brand lights and simply looking for a 12v lead that leaves auxiliary lights off on low-beam and on with high-beam then yes, you can use one of the yellow wires coming from the headlight control unit (mounted directly under the nose for those wondering where it is), but this is simply a power source not a high beam trigger for the Clearwater Darla install. HTH

So I just took in the parts list someone else had on the forum (Thank You) and SouthBay Motorsports in Chula Vista, CA, specifically Mike Gieke and Mechanic Nick LNU ordered the parts for about $300 bucks and install was 1.5 hrs = $503 slipper clutch on my FJ09. First ride was short but no disappointments at all, worked well, clutch pull lighter and shifting is absolutely less notchy. It can be done, it is just finding a dealer willing to actually help you out and Southbay Motorsports rocks! BTW the rubber "absorbers" were the hardest part to get. Luckily, many parts are actually the same part number as the slipper on the YZF 450 quad! Excellent, thanks for being the guinea pig! I'm in North County SD so a trip there wouldn't be too far to go. Just curious, does it go into first with the same hard clunk? That's one of my pet peeves is how harsh the engagement is for first.

They come with resistors. And are set up with automotive "bullet" connectors. The only thing you have to do is make a "pigtail" from the connector end of your OEM blinkers that you are removing. You will also lose the running light function on the front. I went with MotoDynamics flush mount on the front. Great, thanks.

Oops, double post.

^^^ Okay, thanks. Are they plug and play or were resistors added to get a normal flash rate? And any difference between front and rear or do I just order two sets of the same?

You talking to me or 1moreroad?? Sorry, yes, you.

Nice! These are on my farkle list. Where did you buy them? Thanks!

Thanks, that's what I was concerned about. I'm thinking it might be worth going to the Yamaha factory versions that yamabits sets via England.

1moreroad, whose turn signals did you buy? Do you have a link please and how are they for visibility and brightness once you look at them a little off-center?