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Everything posted by wordsmith

  1. StealthAu lives a couple of thousand or so km north of me in the 'Wet Tropics', and describes very well the torrid riding conditions here for part of the year. Summer months - Jan, Feb, into March - are decidedly often the poorest, weather-wise, for the bike-rider. Rest of the year - usually pretty much perfick. I choose to ride very rarely, if at all, in those summer months, finding even the pre-ride chore of trying to drag a helmet over my sweat-bedewed head too much. In US terms, we suffer much the same conditions as the '90/ 90' of our Floridians cousins - 90 deg F and 90% humidity. And of course this dictates what we can comfortably wear on the bike, and why I see so many riders and their pillions glove-less and in shorts, tee-shirt, soft runners!
  2. You guys and gel goddit all wrong. Cease the 'fixes' - it's time for a new bike!😎
  3. Unfortunately that does not fit the GT, which is a pity as I had a couple of these on my earlier Tracers and they were excellent - and affordable! Thank you anyway.
  4. I imagine, tho' without any proof, that the greying/ discolouring may only occur if the panniers are in the sun a great deal. The panniers on all my previous Tracers were like new when parting with the bike, but then they would have been fitted on the bike only a couple of dozen times, and in daylight for probably <100 hours overall. Compared to other OE panniers I've had in the past (mainly BMW ones, made of Unaffordium) the plastic material of the Yamaha panniers is extremely soft, if that means anything. And - FWIW - don't be afraid to have a go at painting the lids yourself - it's not that difficult, and there are videos on-line that will guide you. Nobody is fussier than I, but I find myself quite satisfied with my own recent - tho' admittedly not the first - efforts. And again FWIW, a benefit of only painting the inner part of the lid is that when climbing on and off the bike, it's not likely that anyone with stiff knees, hips, ankles (like me!) will kick to death the RHS pannier lid paint as it's 'protected' by the unpainted matte upper border. If that clumsy wording makes sense!
  5. Dehydration can indeed be an insidious thing that creeps up on one. I well recall riding my BMW R1200R about 900km one day, during very hot summer weather, barely pausing to stop for fuel and even then with scarcely time to take a drink. When getting off the bike at the end of that very long day I was scarcely able to stand, and it would have been quite dangerous for me to continue. And when on a very long, hot, and over many humid days of riding my GS through the WA Oz outback (one day was ~1030km almost non-stop except for fuel, Kununurra to Broome, 45 deg C/ 113 deg F indicated air temp), with very long distances between stops, I took to downing cold plain milk, on the basis that this would be better than plain water given its nutrient value - cheaper, too, than so-called 'sports drinks'. And as a keen long-distance runner back in the 80's, hydration was always a very important factor in keeping endurance up there. Rusty's old saw about drinking before one is thirsty is worth its weight in water...
  6. Not 'pretty sure' - it DEF must be the tamper-proof/ security bit with added hole in the business end...
  7. Bought a quality set of 'security' Torx bits including a nice solid handle, costing AUD$20, all of which I'll probably never ever need again. Job done - but frankly it shouldn't have been necessary if Yamaha had themselves taken this tiny extra step of using a miniscule drop of Loctite on each screw. I like my GT, but this is another example of where Yamaha has let themselves down - and their customers - by lack of attention to detail.
  8. Thanks, Randy. Amazon is a PITA to deal with here in Oz - they do not/ can not/ will not ship much of their stuff here, plus one has to jump through all the usual BS hoops setting-up an account in order to spend money with them! But now that I know what I'm looking for - the little hole in the end of the tool does it - I'm OK with a local store.
  9. Having read these warnings I thought I'd better check mine - don't want to have my freshly-painted panniers scattered across the road! Luckily I have plenty of Torx tools, as they are extensively used in all sizes universally on BMWs. But - in the centre of each Torx screw-head in the lock there appears to be a tiny atom-sized protrusion which prevents the tool-head from getting into it. What am I missing? Luckily, mine seem very secure, but I'd prefer to Loctite them in, just in case. Such tiny screws, such an important job!
  10. Wrong item sent. To be replaced. At least I shifted the mirrors, and from a close squizz there doesn't seem to be any Loctite or such stuff on the threads.
  11. i enjoy finding solutions to problems that don't exist - this is a case in point! There is a steel (I assume) rod that passes horizontally though the front of the screen-raising lock-lever (as the Manual calls it), secured at each end by a circlip. I don't imagine it's secured in any way inside the lock-lever, acting purely as a spindle or axle (again I assume). I wonder if this could be replaced by a rod threaded at each end, protruding a little from the body of the lock-lever, to which might be bolted a vertical bracket of some sort to form the basis of a mount for a GPS?
  12. Isn't there a spray-on/leave/wipe-off proprietary product that claims to do this (repel UV degradation) - designed mainly for cars, I believe, but why not panniers? I cannot recall the name - but more than likely an Armor-All product, which might be the answer. LATER EDIT: yep - here 'tis, supposedly for UV protection, etc.
  13. Thank you indeed - my head is still swollen! I too thought of a carbon-look insert where I've gloss painted, and if the bike was the Gen1 Tracer that I had, with its carbon-look accents, I'd certainly have done that - it should look swish! The blurple tank 'swoosh' should stand out better on the carbon than on plain black: on my tank it almost disappears in some lights. I have considered the double pin-stripe along the upper part of the painted section (currently it's the narrower stripe) - I might lay a length along the existing line to see how it looks. If I proceeded it would be easy enough to remove the original and replace with the double - I've plenty of it. Good luck with your job - it can be fiddly , but equally rewarding, and adds that 'custom-look' to the bike.
  14. I understand all of the above, thanks Stealth! The reason for using the adj spanner is simply that the thickness of the jaws - thicker than with the fixed spanner - is such that there's less likelihood of damaging the soft-as-cheese nut. Anyway, after chafing over this for too long I had another go and lo! - the rhs nut shifted. Must have been the three (3) Weetbix I had for breakfast! Now I've had to tighten it up again as I want to get out on the road on this promised 25deg C day (77deg F), and I'll complete the task later today. They do say that patience is a virtue...
  15. I stick to my guns! 12" drop-forged spanner with decent width jaws so as to minimise damage to the nut. Nothing! I realise that the tool itself is only half the solution, the other is the user, and I'd be the first to claim that a new-born babe has greater arm-strength than anorexic me, but even so... I'm leaving well alone now! At least the mirrors shouldn't fold on me!
  16. I too had no trouble with earlier Gen1 mirrors, but I'm of the view that the GT ones are Loctited-in with a dose of double-distilled triple-filtered industrial-grade military-spec Kryptonium - maybe as a response to reports of them shifting while on the road. I'm not game to try any more, so that's $13 or so wasted. Fortunately the GT mirrors are on longer OE stems so are not quite as poor as earlier ones, plus the 2" blind-spot aux mirrors help..
  17. Righty tighty it certainly is! By a happy (or so I wrongly thought) coincidence my mirror extenders arrived today, and I set to to fit them. But the biggest wrench with decent width jaws simply won't shift the rhs (throttle) side nut - I left the other - and as we all know these nuts are made of soft cheese and are too easily rounded-out! Are they Locktited in at the factory? And is it definite that the rhs nut is turned counter-clockwise to loosen - I nearly wrenched the 'bars off trying to get some - any - movement of the nut! Aaarrrggghhhhh!
  18. More than once I've had a mirror fold back on me at (modest and entirely legal) speed - what an annoying and potentially dangerous thing it is! Thanks...
  19. Is this why there's reverse thread on the rhs? I've often wondered at the reasoning - makes lot of sense!
  20. Thank you! An easy mnemonic - R(ight) = R(everse)... Much obliged - will save much swearing!
  21. A cut-to-size length of thin aluminium tube would suffice.
  22. Unless things have changed with the GT mirrors as opposed to the Gen1 Tracer mirrors - which seems highly unlikely - you leave the inset nut alone, and unscrew the stems from the black nut below, as highlighted in the first pic below. That's what I'll be doing (based on identical previous installs) when my own mirror risers/ extenders arrive. Loosen that nut and un-thread the stem vertically. But be careful - one side mirror stem has reverse thread, but I cannot recall which one it is! When you suss that out yourself, please post here... LATER EDIT - many here including myself have also added small 2" diameter 'blind-spot' mirrors to further enhance rear visibility... second pic below.