betoney

I just got in from a ride this afternoon and while riding I thought to myself, "Damn, I sure am glad I have this MCcruise to rest my right wrist". I dont regret the cost for a second, worth every penny.

Very interesting. I am curious to hear your results after a few tanks. If that is indeed the case, I may use B mode on some of the more long stretches while on road trips, and switch to STD or A for the fun sections.

Exactly, when I sent my ECU in to 2WDW to get flashed they called and were going over all of the changes and available options, when they got to drive modes they described A and STD, and finished with "now B mode... you dont really want to use B mode, because B stands for BORING!" (rofl)

My findings exactly. STD was almost on the money after the flash, but A-Mode was still a bit too abrupt for my liking, and that was my main focus. Moving it back a few digits was a noticeable improvement.

Yes I was. Closed throttle was 14 and WOT was 98. Diag: 15 was Closed:15 and WOT:99. Nothing wrong with making minor adjustments out of range, if you dont like the change, simply move it back, and best of all, ITS FREE!

Well, I just got back from my test ride after adjusting the APS and am happy to report the change is VERY noticeable! As Nels indicated, adjusting the value back just a few digits is all it takes. Mine was 17 and I dropped it to 14, its simple enough to do I might try 13. I tried it in STD and A modes and A just has the slightest abrupt transition from on to off or off to on throttle, but STD is absolutely seamless, almost electric feeling. To anyone considering this, do as Piotrek did and write your values down before you touch the APS so you have a starting value, then adjust it back 2-3 digits at a time. If you dont like it, simply change it back.

I too got the same information from Nels at 2WDW when asking about abrupt on/off throttle. "...What we found from testing is that even though the APS is in "factory specification", turning it back 3-4 degrees will fix the problem. You can loosen up the two screws that hold the sensor and turn it counterclockwise about a 16th of an inch. Just ever-so-slightly turn it back. There is an actual procedure to follow using the diagnosis mode. The factory specifications are "between 10-23" factory is usually set to 17. We have turned them back to 13 and that's all it took. This will make the throttle less aggressive but will not affect any of the top end. This has worked wonders on the FZ09" I will finally get around to trying this out on my next day off.

Good luck in achieving your goal! When you do, we want to see video.

I like that it is a brushed aluminum look versus a shiny stainless look. The big question though, will it work with the center stand? I couldn't find too much info online yet.

I love it. It's a perfect fit, I love the way it looks, and it does keep some debris/grime off the headers. It really completes the bike in my opinion. And they are strong, as you can see in the last photo. Didn't move at all when I cleaned a ditch with it. The center piece is removed for cleaning in that pic. NICE! That really does compliment the looks of the bike. Darn, something else to spend money on now.

It looks like you have the Ermax belly pan, how do you like it? I want to protect the headers a bit from road grime and was thinking about that belly pan as well as the fender extender. Do you have a side shot that shows more of the belly pan/ engine?

Glad to hear high praise for the suspension. My forks are in the queue to be worked on, they are the last upgrade I have planned, I can't wait to get them installed and burn through some twisties. We had snow again this morning, I cant wait for Spring!

I didn't get the magnetic version, but yes, the R1 plug is a viable option as well. I paid about $2 for mine.

I'm usually not a fan of the beak, at all, but I have to admit it looks decent on this bike. They did a very nice job integrating it and making it look oem.

New tires, chain and sprockets, and no right-angle valve stems??? They are the best $20 you can spend on your bike.

I cant imagine it getting any smoother. I was on a several hour ride the other day and one thing that kept getting my attention was how fluid and seamless the transmission felt. Shifting between gears was butter smooth and effortless, much nicer than my prior FZ1, and that shifted very nicely. I am relieved to hear that this swap doesn't increase the engine braking.

betoney: Please inform me, what is going to go wrong on that plugged tire at full throttle in the corner? Meaning riding at the pace you ride at.Red, Other than peace of mind, I have no idea what could happen to a plugged tire, and at 80+ mph, I don't want to find out. Call it paranoia or call it erring on the side of safety, when it happened, I was getting ready to leave for a week long road trip into N. Cali so I chose to replace it. I still have it in my garage, who knows, maybe I'm worrying about nothing and may still use it someday.

Last summer I put on a new set of Angel GT's and went out for a ride to scrub them in. I stopped to get gas and noticed a large nail in the new rear tire, after only 30 miles. I used my Dynaplug to plug the hole and continued on with my 300 mile ride. I usually ride fairly aggressively, but took it easy on the plugged tire. When I'm leaned over ripping through some flowing sweepers at 80-90+ mph, I have to have 100% confidence in my tires. Some will say they have a few thousand miles on a plugged tire, I personally don't want to chance it. I ordered a new tire when I got home that afternoon.

Reduced leverage ratio -

That's the device I was referring to, thanks.

After that is complete. I would then loosen the axle pinch bolts and "bounce" the front end to ensure there is no binding in the forks. That is the part that I am confused about. When I do this procedure, I don't remove or even loosen the axle, therefore it would be impossible to alter the wheel/ABS sensor alignment. All I am doing is effectively extending or compressing each fork leg by a few millimeters. Now, if I remove the wheel for any reason, I always use the procedure that Bruce described.

Bruce I guess I am completely missing the point. When I am adjusting the height of the fork in the triple clamps, I am moving the gold section only which doesn't touch the fender, the front wheel or the ABS sensor. With the bike on the center stand and the front wheel firmly on the ground, nothing is getting canted side to side as the axle is still in place, the only thing that is moving is the upper tube.

Here's an easy way to do it with the wheel/brakes on. First, remove the ABS sensor from the right side of the wheel (there will be times when the wheel/axle are not straight and the clearance to the ABS sensor is very tight & you don't want to damage it). Second, loosen right axle pinch bolt & axle nut, fender mounting bolts; you don't have to remove the axle. Third, take weight off front wheel (jack with towel under exhaust headers works fine). Fourth, completely loosen lower triple clamp pinch bolts. Take a business card and make markings on how much you want to raise the forks. Slightly loosen one upper triple clamp pinch bolt, grasp the fork, loosen the bolt enough to where it moves, and move the fork upward as far as it will go; it probably won't be 5mm. Snug the upper pinch bolt. Go to the other fork, loosen the upper pinch bolt & while grasping the fork & using your business card, slide this fork up to 5mm or whatever. Snug pinch bolt. Go back to first fork, grasp the fork tube, loosen that pinch bolt and using the marks on the business card make it the same as the other fork; and snug the pinch bolt. Torque the upper & lower pinch bolts to spec, tighten the front axle, remove jack, push the FJ off the centerstand [em]without using the front brake and pump the front end up and down several times to align the right fork tube. Torque the right axle pinch bolt, snug the fender bolts, re-install the ABS sensor, pump the brake lever. [strong]You're done.[/strong][/em] To do this procedure, there is NO reason to either elevate the front wheel off the ground or loosen/fiddle with ANYTHING below the triple clamps. You simply adjust one fork leg at a time, I always do it with the bike on the center stand. Loosen one leg and make height adjustments to your choosing (the other leg will hold the bike up) then tighten the pinch bolts and adjust the other leg to the same height. The entire process takes about 3 minutes, I use this procedure on all of my bikes and have even done it on the side of the road before. I have never had the front end out of alignment or had fork binding.

Before buying the FJ, I test rode the Versys 1000 several times and the assist clutch is NICE, lever pull is truly a 2 finger affair. I didn't try out the slipper feature, but if you have arm pain and an hour ride in commuter traffic this might be the answer for you. There are also devices that alter the leverage of the clutch pull which reduce the rate of pull.

A full season out of 1mm tread depth? Um, NNNNNNNnnnoooooooooooooooooooo!!! For safety's sake, change those out soon, DO NOT gauge tire wear by the odometer.