betoney

I tried a few different gearing changes, 15T, 16T and 17T and didn't bother to put it back on. Its sitting on the work bench waiting for my laziness to pass... 🤣

The forecast calls for possible low land snow within a few days so I need to ride when I can, it was high 40's (F) and sunny this morning so I couldn't pass up a riding opportunity. I got home and decided to give 'Big Red' some love as well, so back out for another ride in the sunshine.

I have used those type of deflectors on a few different bikes, the assembly directions are garbage at best. What I did when assembling them was basically discard the instructions and look at photos of the assembled product, I laid all of the parts and fasteners out on a table a 'pre-fit' the pieces without the fasteners as they looked in photos. I remember having to reverse a piece or two and then they assembled correctly. Good luck

I have used this method since I was a kid on my bicycles and have done it many, many times on dirt bikes over the years. A method we used was standing facing the front of the bike with the front wheel between our knees and giving the handlebars a quick jerk in the opposite direction.

Agreed on the priority list, suspension first -always, then any other modifications after that.

In my experience the wind noise reduces significantly the smaller the screen gets. The screen causes the turbulence and noise, thats why naked bikes have no wind buffeting or aggressive noise, you get wind but its smooth. Take the screen off and go for a ride and see how smooth the air is. The wind noise/terrible screen has plagued the bike since it was introduced in 2015, I finally put on a small flyscreen and dress appropriately in colder weather. I also use a Shoei helmet and have zero issues with turbulence or wind noise riding all day long on week long road trips.

I am assuming that everyone experiencing the bog is using the standard Yamaha fuel map? Is this happening to anyone who has had the ECU flashed with a richer fuel map?

If you are getting the fail code for the APS, it’s flagging for a reason. -find out why. In the service manual there should be a section on checking the voltage of the APS to verify its operating within spec. On a very random note, considering that it’s a 2015 model how old is the battery? There have been more than a few posts involving odd error codes and erratic behavior from the bike that were fixed with a new battery.

Next time you are in that area, try heading up to the Wynoochee dam instead. https://maps.app.goo.gl/qiEBTDHKVpft8yuK9 The first 12 miles heading North out of Montesano is farmland road with very light to moderate traffic, the next 22 miles up to the dam is endless sweeping curves on perfect pavement with ZERO TRAFFIC, there is nothing out there, very easy to keep it at 75-80mph (or more 👍🏻) and then turn around and ride it again back to the highway!!! Round trip from the highway to the dam and back to the highway is almost 70 miles of glorious curves. Highly recommend doing it on a nice sunny summer day, you can add in Satsop on the way back as well.

I celebrate if a winter day ever gets that warm, that would be considered a heat wave around here. 🤣

42F and sunny, perfect for getting out for a New Years Day ride. I was hoping to stop at a favorite burger place about an hour away but as I pulled into the parking lot I saw that they were closed for the holiday (I should have known), I still had a very nice morning ride. Anyone else have a tradition of riding on New Years Day, rain or shine?

I ordered a Penske from Traxxion Dynamics. I had my forks revalved by a forum vendor that used to be a member here years ago. The shock is relatively simple to swap yourself, you don't need a shop to do the work, it can be done withing an hour. For the forks you have 2 options, getting the oem parts revalved or buying complete replacement cartridges. A cartridge swap 'should' be something that a bike shop can do if they have a cartridge holder tool as you just remove the old cartridge and install the replacement. If you were looking at buying a replacement piston kit I would ONLY trust an actual suspension shop to do that modification. A lot of members here have used KTech with great results. https://www.ktechsuspensionusa.com/part-finder?find=Yamaha_FJ-09_2015

When I replaced mine earlier this year, the oem Yausa was very close to $200. The battery in my VFR is now 7 years old, I checked the voltage yesterday and after 2 weeks of sitting idle its holding 12.6v. I'll keep an eye on it throughout the upcoming riding season.

GREAT news, its good to hear that you are back up and running again. I read a lot of different motorcycle forums and there have been MANY posts with the exact same scenario and resolution from fitting a fresh battery. 👍🏻 My buddy just recently got the exact same deal, $12k OTD on a brand new 2022 model. I completely understand your mindset, I also own a 2015 model. A brand new bike is sexy and exciting but when you step back and take a moment to think sensibly the current bike is (almost) perfectly fine, ESPECIALLY since its paid off. If you have already budgeted some money toward a new bike then I agree with you, take that money and upgrade the suspension. I have never regretted spending money on suspension, the improved comfort and handling still puts a smile on my face.

I am not sure if tensile strength is directly related to chain life but if you are currently using a DID VX3, they also offer a 'stronger' ZVM-X2 DID Chain 525VX3 Pro-series chain is perfect for any 600cc to 1000cc motorcycle. The 525VX3 chain offers longer life than the previous DID 525VX chain. The DID525VX3 is a great chain for bikes like the CRF1000 Africa Twin , Suzuki GSXR750 and DL1000 and BMW F750/F850GS. - Available in gold or natural finishes - Average tensile strength rated at 9,220 foot pounds - Rated for use to up 1000cc DID chain newest 525 ZVM-X2 chain is the ultimate street chain and is rated to 1300cc. Meets the demands of our current high-power, large displacement street bikes. This is one of the strongest 525 chains on the market. This chain make a great upgrade versus the stock chain on bikes like the ZX-10R, BMW S1000RR and Ducati V4/1199/1299 models. - GOLD finish - Includes one RIVET style master link - Average tensile strength is 10,408 foot pounds - Weight 4.85 pounds per 100 links - Manufacturer rated to 1300cc's

I would research some Tracer maintenance videos on youtube if looking for the step-by-step proceedure. There are fuses under the seat and behind the right hand fairing panel. There was a recent post where I mentioned the merits of any new bike owner familiarizing themself with basic maintenance procedures including removing the fairing panels. Knowing how to get access to the battery, fuse blocks and airbox will save you a lot of frustration in the future. The first time removing the fairing panels takes some patience until you know the drill as some parts fit into or under another piece like a puzzle. After you have done it a few times (or a few dozen times) it can be done in minutes. As @mikerbiker mentioned, if you need to get under the tank, remove the seat and put a folded towel in its place, remove all of the mount bolts for the tank and lift it straight up a few inches and turn it 180 degrees backward and place it on the towel, so you don't need to remove the electrical plug or fuel line. When I rotate the tank, I stand on the left side of the bike and rotate the tank clock-wise, when I replace the tank I turn it back around counter clock-wise so the lines don't get twisted or kinked.

After the dead battery in Yosemite, did you replace it when you returned home or is this the same battery? Even though the tender says the battery is "fine" there may be more to a 'good battery' than just reading 12.3v, it may be damaged internally causing the weird fault to appear on the screen. A new battery should erase all doubt, hopefully its the fix to your issue. The battery on my '15 FJ never failed me but its definitely getting up there in age, I travel to some remote locations and didn't want to press my luck so even though the bike was still starting and operating fine I replaced it earlier this year.

In addition to paying $120-$130 an hour for basic elementary level maintenance, a bigger factor is down time. Between early spring and mid autumn my local dealer is booked out several weeks for appointments, add in the back and forth drive time and gas of dropping the bike off and picking it up a day or 2 later just doesn't make sense. In the meantime I could wash the bike, change the oil and filter, service the air filter, check the chain and tire pressure, flush the brake fluid, and have it gassed up for the next trip before lunch time. 3 hours in the service department would be close to $400 for labor, plus their 30% markup on fluids, parts and 'shop supplies'.

On any brand new bike, I have always done the first oil change within the first 100 miles and then again at 1000 miles - personal preference, your's may vary. For simple routine maintenance, I ALWAYS recommend doing it yourself unless there is something specified in a warranty or service contract prohibiting that. 1. you get familiar with your bike, removing body panels and how to access under the seat and tank for battery and air filter access. And 2. you KNOW that you checked everything thoroughly. Besides the oil change the dealer check is usually just verifying bolt and fasteners are tight, air pressure, chain tension etc. something that YOU should know how to do on any vehicle you own. In addition to the first maintenance check, getting familiar with your bike will include setting all of the ergonomics up for your riding style and comfort. The shifter, brake pedal, seat height, rearsets, handlebar risers are all adjustable just like setting up the driving ergonomics in your car.

Where were you able to rent a '23 model? The US didn't get a '23 model, GT or GT+.

I don't think you are going to get much input on this topic, I would bet that 99.99% of members here have no clue what a shim stack is let alone what their numerical values are and in what order they are assembled. I have a vague idea what you are talking about but still those numbers are just numbers to me. 🤷🏻‍♂️

I have never tried Oxford but the Tracer grips work VERY well and as a bonus there is no external controller to mount, they are plug and play and everything is controlled through the bikes screen with the oem switchgear.

Is this your first time trying to wheelie or just first time trying on this new bike? If it’s the first attempt, maybe experiment on a dirt bike first or on something other than your primary bike. Pavement is VERY unforgiving when you crash.

@Smokamoto How is your bike so damn clean? Mine looked like that for the first 15 minutes of ownership and then never again.

I have had 2 of the Penske shock pictured above on current and previous bikes, I wouldn’t hesitate for a second to get another for any future bike I may buy. Fantastic shock!