BBB

I’ve flagged this to the site owner, in case there is a fix that can be applied. New registrations had to be paused while we were being spam bombed so perhaps logons got caught up in that.

On my 2015 model I just lift the rear of the tank and put a small plank of wood across the frame rails to keep it lifted. That way I don’t have to undo the fuel pipes.

For light rain I find that textile trousers cope well anyway, but for a downpour I use these cheap-as-chips over trousers as they pack small.

https://www.oxford-shop.co.uk/item3574.htm

I drilled some holes in the base of the db killer, think of it as tuning the sound. Start with some small holes, try the sound, then enlarge them if you want to. 

I find that I can fill the tank to the brim (bike on the side stand) and then look down and the level has dropped a lot as the fuel trickles into the side parts of the tank. I can play this game several times and get quite a bit more fuel in there,  but most times I can’t be bothered and just reset the odometer and start looking for fuel after around 100 miles.

Epic stuff @piotrek, thanks for posting that.

Holy thread revival Batman, my own fault for not reporting back.

I noticed no difference with the snorkel surgery, or the K&N filter, on their own. But, this was part of my bigger changes ( ECU flash, catalyst removal, high flow exhaust, etc) and as they made a big difference the snorkel on its own was not significant.

Some oil in the airbox is normal as the fumes from the top of the engine are recycled into there to help with emissions, but metal shavings would sound alarm bells for me.

Welcome back @wordsmith. 👋

9 hours ago, johnmark101 said:

Nicely set up bike for sure.  I like the Boxter in the garage. 👍

Must be something in common with FJ09 riders. I have the same 2015, red bike but the 987 3.2S Boxster. We seem to hate roofs.

On 5/23/2022 at 8:37 PM, stringman said:

Tried to order some genuine errors from fowler about 10days wait and £200+ so ordered some wavy ones from france£ 150.

Presume I don't need wavy   pads

Standard pads. It’s depressing to read that bike theft is still so common in the UK.

It’s straight forward to do, but do heed the warnings about using heat and slow, steady torque when removing the bolts. At a pinch you could re-use your old pads if they’re in good shape and you’re in a hurry.

That must be some pretty trick ABS system, as rapid deceleration and the change in gyroscopic forces normally makes the bike stand up if you brake whilst leaning over. Trail braking works well, but rapid braking in corners is definitely something I try to avoid, by matching speed to how far you can see. 

How about a blob of araldite on the end of an allen key (presuming it’s an allen head bolt), push it into the bolt so that when it sets you can pull outwards on the screw. That may put enough friction on the hidden fastener to stop it rotating. You can then buy a new bolt if it comes out.

It’s tough here in the UK as well you know. Never mind your alligators and deer, we have sheep!  Mindless, wooly blobs that stand in the middle of desolate, single track roads, normally just around blind bends. They give a mean stare I tell you. 

And pigeons! I headbutted one in flight two years ago, that veered into me. Despite ducking it hit me on the front/side of the helmet and that was quite alarming.

Don't even get me started on bumblebees..

It’s an interesting project as a platform for anything, especially for those who don’t want the ugliness of a top box and mount. My most often used luggage are a small tank bag, but if I need more, then a Kriega US20 that goes over the rear seat. The @piotrek mount could be brilliant for a small rear bag.

Lovely welding 😍. If the rivets are just slightly domed up, would a small amount of filing help? If you have to drill them out then just leave the holes as rain drains and pretend you planned it that way...

2 hours ago, OZVFR said:

Thanks guys, I'm definitely not a fan of increasing unsprung weight, and I don't have engine guards.

I might have to get them for this but was hoping to find another way.

Still trying to find out where the original Yamaha fog lights bracket attached.

IIRC the fog lights attached to a bar that went directly under the headlight assembly. They use the same attachment points that you can see that @Rick123has used to fit the beak.

This thread may help

Looking good @piotrek. Does your Shad case overhang the forward part of the mounting plate? Can you use the topbox in any way to brace for sideways movement? My concern when I saw your first post, was lateral forces squashing the front mounting straps. Those brackets look great in compression but could collapse when pushed sideways if not strong enough. I’m guessing now though, that the mass of a full rotapax isn’t that high.

Plastics are multi-phase materials. They have a bulk polymer which gives strength and also a plasticiser, which is a much smaller molecule that gets between the polymers and keeps the material more flexible. The YouTube “fix” of using a heatgun just brings the plasticiser molecules to the surface, where they temporarily look good, then evaporate off over time and leave the underlying plastic more brittle than before.

You can’t remove scratches by any other methods than re-levelling the surface: either by rubbing the surrounding area down, or filling the scratches. You can however reduce the visual impact of the scratch by applying another plasticiser, which reduces the light scatter as it matches the refractive indices more closely. 

Owatrol makes a product called Polytrol, which has a great fanbase on Porsche forums and is great for plastic restoration in general. In the UK you can buy a 100ml sample pot, which goes a long way, but it looks like Amazon stocks the bigger pots.

https://www.owatroldirect.co.uk/product/polytrol/

22 hours ago, maximNikenGT said:

Do these penalties also get applied from speed cameras or is it only through an actual stop by police?

Speed cameras are unarguable. My last one was 3 points on my licence (accumulate 12 and you’re banned) and a £100 fine or a speed awareness course (still £100 but no points). 

An actual police stop can be more discretionary and can sometimes be less painful. 

I’ve done both, removed foam and cut the snorkel back. I did the latter because the original design looked like an unnecessary change in direction for smooth air flow. I’ve ridden in plenty of rain with no issues.

As for benefits, I can’t say how the changes decouple from each other as I changed to a free-flow filter, removed foam,   cut the snorkel, fitted AIS blanking plates, changed the exhaust and had the ECU flashed all about the same time. The bike is certainly smoother, noisier and more responsive, but I can’t hear any changes in induction noise over the louder exhaust.

Snorkel cutting: marginal, if any gains, no noticeable downside.

+1 for painting your new bracket matt black.

In your last photo @dazzler24 is your axle bolt twisted slightly in the adjuster or is it just the camera angle? I only ask as they can bite into the adjuster over time when tightening.

I’m late to this as not on the forum as much at the moment. Really glad you’re okay but I would have been far from calm at the motorist. The ignorance and low skills of many drivers astounds me.

If the bike is repairable that would be a nice project, but I’m sure you’ll make a brilliant decision about what to do. Have fun with the choices.

15 hours ago, piotrek said:

You want the disk to be at least 12" OD and thin (like this). You need that load spread over as large an area as possible. If you mount the board on a 6" spinner the thing will wobble and board will overhang too much and flex.

Be prepared for a bit of extra effort when setting the bike on the spinner. It is just under 1" in height. You could use a steel plate instead (thinner, but $$ + heavy). The strip across the board on mine is to prevent the stand from shifting.

I used a 2mm steel plate on my lazy susan turn plate and it works really well. I glued a carpet tile on top for grip.

5 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

Yup.  Gotta be VERY careful of the stuff you put on the inside of the lens.  I've wrecked a couple over the years using stuff like glasses/screen cleaner.  Ultimately best to just clean with water and a microfiber, at least inside.

They recommend taking the pinlock out of the visor, washing in very mild detergent, rinsing in clean water and then leaving to dry before refitting. Easy enough to do after a ride and its ready for the next day. Pinlocks work as the polymer is hydrophilic so moisture spreads across the surface rather than beading and fogging. If you clean the surface with some cleaners you destroy this ability. The downside to pinlock is that the polymer is very soft and scratches easily.

A tip for glasses is to put a spot of shaving foam or hair conditioner on the lense and then polish it off with a dry cloth. That leaves the surface hydrophilic in the same way that pinlocks work. Products like Rain-X work this way.

They are great straps. I even use them for bringing home the christmas tree on the roof of the car each year. The elastic holds the tree without damaging it.