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nsmiller

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About nsmiller

  • Birthday 02/24/1990

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  1. CCT= cam chain tensioner APE is a brand of manual CCT that some choose to use instead of the factory automatic CCT. I'm not sure its been down on both sides. I think some of what is in the pictures may just be shadows. And I don't see a bunch of damage on the bar ends, etc. But if it does have some scuffs that's just a tool to use to negotiate the price. The speed limiter is only a problem if you want to go faster than 114 mph. If you want to do that, flash the ECU. Our 2015 Tracer has never, ever had a wobble, so I'd say that its not a big deal from my perspective. If you do experience wobble, make sure your tires are in good condition, your tire pressure is correct, and your stem bearings are properly torqued. Also make sure the suspension is properly setup for your weight. If you do those things I doubt you'll ever have a wobble problem.
  2. Check the condition of the clutch cable. They 2015's and '16s are known to fray and break. Yamaha has an updated part number which mostly solves the issue. Also, at 17K miles, I would be planning on doing a valve check soon. Yamaha says its not needed until 26K, but many have found that the exhaust valves are tight well before the first scheduled check (including myself). Otherwise, it should be a great machine.
  3. Also make sure you leave home with a good (newish) chain. The OEM chain is only good for about 10K.
  4. Bring a flat repair kit and know how to use it. Practice patching an old tire at home.
  5. Last year we did Kansas City to Alaska (around the state) and back. The FJ-09 left with a fresh set of PR4's and made it home on a single set of tires. Bike was heavily loaded for all 8,700 miles. Didn't do the Dalton. Assuming no punctures on the Dalton, I would anticipate you could do your trip on a single set of tires. If you do change them, do it in Fairbanks AFTER getting back from Prudhoe Bay. Also remember that just because a tire is squared off, doesn't mean its ready to be changed. Highway miles are going to square a tire. It's still safe to ride on.
  6. Add inline 6 below inline 4 as the smoothest motor configuration. If you want the smoothest motor, and you've got deep pockets, go buy a BMW K1600.
  7. Mother Yamaha doesn't really like well documented YouTube videos showing failed engines due to no fault of the customer with only 10,000 miles. My guess is that if a valve seat failed or if a CCT failed, a YouTube video could carry a lot of weight in getting them to fix it for you.
  8. What part of the world/country are you located in? I advise that you get the valve cover off by removing the tank, rather than trying to remove the radiator. Video and/or take thorough pictures in case this ends up being warranty claim.
  9. You may find this helpful: http://www.powerlet.com/learningCenter/excessCapacity
  10. Check the obvious stuff first: -Tire pressure good? -Bike loaded normally? -Abnormal head wind? -Low temperatures? -Chain properly lubed? Perhaps it is developing tight spots? - Gas with ethanol vs non-ethanol?
  11. If you turn the crank two full rotations by hand (aka take off the right side cover, you'll need a gasket) without resistance (expect to feel some resistance from normal compression) then your valve train is not interfering (colliding) with your piston's stroke. If this is true, cranking will not damage the engine. It may not run if it has jumped a tooth, but it won't cause catastrophic damage to crank it. All that said, my hunch is that you did not jump a tooth and you just need to tighten the tensioner. Edit: Sorry I meant right side cover. AKA the non alternator side.
  12. Sensor is starting to go bad.
  13. I can't speak to the proper way to adjust the APE, but I don't think you've likely jumped any teeth or you'd already know it. Especially if you only idled the bike. Obviously the main concern with jumping teeth is if the valves will interfere with the pistons. Cranking the engine over a few times by hand will tell you if this is a problem, if it is, obviously don't run the motor. If you're not interfering then you won't damage the bike by cranking. It will either be where it is supposed to be, or it will run very poorly. In the later case you'll just know you have to fix it but no damage will be done.
  14. Nope, the FJR is designed to run just fine on good old 87 octane according to Yamaha. So unless you are buying a non-ethanol blend of gas, buying 91 is a waste of money in an FJR. Often in the states, when filling up both bikes at one pump I will put 91 in the FJR just to prevent having to hang up the pump and start again. But once we got into Canada, the price differences were great enough between 91 and 87 that doing that really started to hurt my wallet. I quickly learned to hang up the pump. In the states, premium is 20 to 30 cents more per gallon. In Canada, its 20 to 30 cents more per Liter.
  15. Yes this I figured, but what if the number on the left is 54 when it should be 3? What does it mean? The numbers are measured in parts per million (ppm). In my case, the high numbers are from lead and manganese. Lead is found primarily in bearings, but it is also found in octane booster and in leaded gas. I used octane boost with lead in it during our trip multiple times due to lack of 91 octane stations in spots on the AK highway. Manganese is a trace element in some engine components, but it is also an additive in some gasoline. I believe the high manganese level is also attributable to the octane boost that was used. Future oil analysis tests will confirm if this hypothesis is correct.
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