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norcal616

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Everything posted by norcal616

  1. Only one side stays on, while the other side stays dim during normal running operations...then the other side turns on when HI beam is selected... both lights do not light up as LOW beam during normal operations...
  2. I did an experiment a month ago with my turbo FZ-07... Yoshi exhaust can was the benchmark for nice stubble loudness in my opinion...size was like 53mm outlet by 280mm length I believe but it was a hex shaped can... Had 3 aftermarket round exhaust cans of various sizes... #1: 51mm outlet x 180mm length was way louder than Yoshi #2: 51mm outlet x 270mm length was quieter than #1 but not #3 #3: 61mm by 180mm length was slightly louder than Yoshi but way better sound... #3 was the winner... I also understand different motors, its potential power adder and exhaust can shape/construction changes exhaust sounds...
  3. Swingarm arm bolt, rear shock linkage bolt or rear shock dog bone bolts are probably worn out...
  4. When I lived in Northern Cali- I could chew up tires on cars/bikes due to the extra coarse road surface vs now in Michigan where the road surface is smooth as an orange peel... Abrasive roads chew up tires...
  5. Yes it has throttle cables to move the electronics tucked under the airbox by the throttle bodies...
  6. A lot of bikes will come back when forced induction comes along... rather it's a turbo or supercharger but not NOS... My little turbo FZ-07 has similar HP/TQ numbers as my FJ-09 but the turbo bike has a much much broader TQ curve than my FJ-09
  7. No I have a 2015 FJ-09 with aftermarket cruise control... Only JDM requirement I know of is the exhaust... I'm am definitely curious if there is a factory cruise control limit for JDM TracerGT or any other JDM restrictions...
  8. This is a first I have heard of this... Only known "top speed" restriction was on the very early models at approx 115mph... IIRC it can be used from 35mph in 4th to 100mph+ in 6th... but 130mph is pushing the revs a lil past 9k rpms...
  9. Stoltec is another good value option... https://stoltecmoto.com/product-category/yamaha/fj-09/ Fork kit from Stoltec can be a DIY or swap cartridge cores with Stoltec for a few dollars more than the DIY kit Penske Double Clicker is a popular choice... This is a 95% solution vs OEM... the last 5% is just extra stuff/price you may never use unless you like to fiddle with clickers/knobs...
  10. Dont keep a steady throttle- always be adding throttle when using it, use above 4k rpms, also dont be slow/pre load shifter...
  11. This info will still be here on the forum for future use...
  12. I looked into the fuel pump more- the bag looking filter is 2 filters in 1 - it's got another mesh bagged filter element inside the white filter bag... the second filter is molded around what I can feel as a plastic pickup tray- this filter looks like some type of long fine metal fibers encased in a mesh bag...this can be easily removed via the orange clip and the actual fuel pump slides right out so that is also easily replaceable... The silver object on the left side of the fuel pump unit looks to be a pressure type bypass valve and is not attached to the fuel filter looking bag... I also cannot tell what is inside the left side of the fuel pump unit as it is sealed together... shining a flashlight thru the plastic sides shows it's kinda empty inside but something is there like an actual micron filter because I can move the light around and see some type of structure inside like a screen cage...
  13. I cant really say they are risky, I have used em for years on dirt bikes, quads, motorcycles, pedal bikes, machines at work, etc... they are what I have known/used for years but I really prefer to have a chain like how the OEMs are if one could easily remove chain from bike without having to drop the swingarm or grind/cut chain to remove... them snap off style links really do intrigue me but I dont know anyone personally to use em that I can go visit and talk to... I do see a potential problem using the clip style links if the front sprocket is "damping style" which would cause the outside chain links to ride on the damper and potentially causing some problems since the master link clip would also potentially ride on the damper... I currently use a clip style one on my FZ-07 but have not gotten to the point of replacing chain on my FJ-09 I have a few extra clips/links on hand- I only use em one/maybe 2 times if I take the clip/link off after I have put the chain to use... Like I mentioned before- keep the open split end of the clip facing the rear tire so the open split end does not go head first into the front sprocket cover or lower chain guide(dirt bikes, etc) potentially getting one of the split ends caught... This is not an endorsement to use clip style master links over other styles or to say they are safer vs others...its just my own personal preference...
  14. I prefer the clip style master link...just remember to put the open split end facing towards rear wheel.
  15. Fuel filter is in the fuel pump unit inside the tank... the whole fuel pump/fuel filter is practically one whole piece iirc... I have my OEM fuel system from my FZ-07 on the shelf- I can look at it/or post pictures of it-
  16. If mine gets replaced in the future I'm sending the cooler out to be "Alodine" treated just like all the other aluminum thermocoolers my work makes...
  17. No need for PowerCommander if ECU is flashed... Trex stuff is so-so... Suspension is very worthy upgrade that should be done fairly early in ownership... Dont really need a rad guard or front fender extension if going with Higs cage, I have his 1st gen with upper bars and the skid plate really stops alot of sandblasting from tire, rocks/pebbles...
  18. Have you tried riding the bike without TCS on??? I ride with TCS off 95%+ of the time I find it's much smoother vs TCS on due to my understanding of how the tunes are created on a dyno- TCS is turned off when they create a tune on the dyno since the front wheel does not rotate and the back wheel does which makes the TCS think something is wrong...
  19. It's time for a new chain/sprockets... I can see alot of rust, rusty dust and 2 kinked chain links in the pictures...
  20. Needs a total deep cleaning outside and inside or paint to be welded... Another idea- total deep clean inside and out and use titanium putty to seal it all up again... this of course will require you to remove the lower half of the motor and its parts/seals so it can be preheated to 200°f to apply the putty... then it can be CNC ready 😁
  21. I find alot of this throttle problems tend to be a mix of rider and electronics combined... I had to retrain my muscles to let off the throttle in 2 steps vs the ole cable systems from carburetors... Just back off the throttle a tiny amount to give you an indication the electronics are paying attention to you then you can let off the throttle even more... Just a idea/thought...
  22. A zip tie at the end should stop the strap from coming back thru the metal loop...
  23. Order new plastics but it's not gonna have the Yamaha Badge or a few of these go fast stickers 😁
  24. Shouldn't have to apply throttle to start... generally OEM battery last approx 3-4yrs(never put on tender during winter months but ride daily during summer type of deal)... yes a battery tender may show full charge on an older battery but battery may not have enough AMPs to fire the bike up correctly...
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