norcal616

2015 only has on or off, no other TC settings as the later models do If the TC light is on 24/7 it means its OFF...no TC light means its ON and if it flashes when riding it means it got triggered...

Sure can- PayPal 😅

Im starting to believe once the temp goes past "lo" temp the thermostat stays open till the temps drop below "lo" reading again...

Or a Higdonion engine cage/skid plate... my buddy tells me it makes a nice "ting" when a rock/pebble is denied the chance to say hello to the engine/oil pan..

I have seen reports of 95BHP which is approx 75WHP...pretty close to the FZ/MT-07 which is approx 70WHP...

Imitation is the greatest form of flattery, but it's annoying for many reasons....

I always thought I could take a punch tool and make a few holes near the top to let air out as I try to force more in...

Nah, running it hard, and letting it sit after a back to back session without leaving it on electric wise to run fan or having a fan blow on it... I'm also running a -1T front sprocket so my rpms are a bit higher... this was a few years ago in the middle of a evil wicked heat wave... I do agree that seeing running temps at 230 is extreme... i also remember that day after that session, I left the heated grips on and went to turn the power on to turn em off and caught a glimpse of coolant temp at 230... yes I do have a wideband hooked up and yes the AFRs hit the 15.7- 16.2 range at WOT above 11k rpms... as for the tune in general it typically runs AFRs from 13.3-15.3 under my normal conditions... I didn't realize I posted this, I was saving it to think it over move... I must have hit sent and not the back button...

I forgot about that- also they can bundle the tune with aftermarket exhaust for even more cost savings vs buying separately... they also have various tuning software to use from FTecu, Woolich, PCV for example for you pick from...

A tune and aftermarket exhaust will put out approx 115-120whp with approx 65TQ(every dyno is a bit different, exhaust brands are close in HP/TQ but slightly different "power curves" and different tuning software can alter the final HP/TQ a tiny bit) ... Stock OEM tune is approx 105whp with 60TQ Just a tune on stock exhaust you probably will see approx 112-115whp with a tiny bump in TQ

This bike runs cool when not hammering on it like at a track- the coolant temp is not really comparable to an automobile where is basically sits at 190-200*F... my bike pretty much hovers around 150-170*F unless I'm at the track where it will run at 215-230*F last I recall...

You may have to adjust the gear shifter, can't say for sure... I adjust mine the day I got it to suit my riding boots... You want to let the gear shift fall back to it's neutral resting position after shifting to allow the next shift to happen otherwise it will kinda hang up...

Another emissions device 🙄... mainly to keep the compliance for like 20-30k miles or longer than the Euro4 rules... Some bikes will die off like the Hayabusa in EU but USA can still sell em today... Or it's a possibility Yamaha relocated the "cat" from just inside the exhaust can to where is located in picture...

It seems like nowadays people want a versatile motorcycle( commute, track, weekend canyon runs- all in one) that offers best bang for the buck... Yamaha hit a few grand slams with the CP2/CP3 platforms... also to me sadly the likes of premium brands ( Ducati, BMW, Aprilia etc) seem to price out bikes like a "al a carte" food menu...

It will be educational... Already have the tools such as Traxxion Dynamics fork service kit and race tech suspension book... Compared to the horror story of the FZ-07 forks this should be a easier 😅( Knocks on wood)... Stoltec even listed the sag numbers to achieve as well as the oil amount, even the new shim stacks are stacked accordingly and zip tied together...

My bike is running on a FZ-09 tune from 2WDW using one of the multiple tuning software(Woolich, FTech, PowerCommander and a few others) they have on hand... They created the tune on the "in house" FZ-09 since it had my exhaust choice and flashed it to my ECU... Still going strong after 3.5yrs...

Early B-Day present ( 1.5 of 3) showed up on my door step 😊.. the other 1.5 is the rear shock and XSR clutch kit...

Yes a battery may show a full charge but it may lack the CCA( cold crank amps) to turn over nicely...

@coachluciano, @betoney I have seen the threads for years, just now got the chance to order the kit... I can wait- winter is here till April 🙄

Part kit is on National Backorder till 11/21/19... Even tho it's listed as "in stock" .. Got an "I'm sorry" email with the option to cancel order or wait... I picked to wait 🙄...

I mounted my jacket liner and pants controller in this location...used heavy duty Velcro to secure controller...

You might be able to see it if you look from the sides along the top of motor, but you just may have to pull the airbox up to see, maybe get a friend to see/help... The hose is on bottom of airbox and goes to valve cover... The "whine" is distinct, you will notice if you did have a kinked hose vs a non kinked hose( I should mention I removed the noise damping foam under the gas tank) so that might make the "whine" more audible... I had a kinked airbox hose and didn't even notice it till I blew a seal on the clutch arm at the engine cover...after fixing the seal and unkinking the hose, I definitely noticed the distinct "whine"...

What I do is this: After I have achieved my sag: I put a piece of painters tape near each adjustment with how it's currently set... Next I only make one adjustment at a time such as adding a few clicks of compression- go for a ride, not just round the block... Make a mental note or write down how it felt... Then I adjust the setting back to original and then take out 2 clicks and go for a ride, again take note... you can go more clicks to see how it really works when you add/take out let's say 5-6clicks, etc... Now put that back to original- go to another adjustment and repeat the process and vice versa... From there with all your notes and see that yea- I really liked how it behaved when I did this one adjustment... From there you can fine tune the other adjustments doing the same process since... By the time your done you should have an idea how your suspension behaves to your riding style/conditions...

Getting ECU reflash will drop MPG a few points in general or more depending on variables I personally dunno who EDR performance is/quality of said tune so that is unknown to me at what they aim for in terms of tuning... Is the airbox breather hose kinked( you won't hear the "whine" noise from airbox if hose is kinked) , are you still running the stock exhaust- if so is the O2 sensor reading correctly...

Sometimes if it's just minor work like you listed, like replacing mirrors or body panels, headlights...I would rather do it myself/and with help from friends than to deal with dealerships and file claims on my insurance... As for pre-paying for parts for an insurance claim- ehhhh I'm running away from that dealership...