BentAero

I disagree. Obviously I didn't slide in these but these gloves appear designed for workers slinging tools all day and appear of much better construction than 95% of the MC gloves I've purchased in 40 years. The fingertips on these gloves are double stitched durable synthetic that works very well with your smartphone. I doubt there are any daily mc gloves that will perform better in a slide. There's one way to find out...

Hate to be the wet blanket, but if you slide down the road wearing these gloves, they'll shred like you're wearing no gloves at all. Would you touch a spinning disc grinder or belt sander wearing these? The nerve endings in your palms and fingertips are irreplaceable...

A hair too loose is far better than a hair too tight...

Not true. *If* the master cylinder one-way valve is sticking, (which would block the bleed hole that allows fluid to return to the master cyl reservoir) the caliper pistons will still squeeze the rotor/wood, but won't release, as the fluid can't travel back up the line. The pedal will still move/feel normal. If the caliper pistons are stuck in the 'squeezed' position, try tapping on the master cylinder with a hammer handle. If the mc piston pops loose, it will relieve the pressure from the caliper pistons allowing the rear wheel to rotate. You've got nothing to lose...

I had the exact experience you describe a few years ago on a Honda. It was actually the master cylinder sticking, not the caliper. The master cylinder piston would push fluid down the line applying the caliper piston, but the MC piston was sticking in the 'on' position, which blocks the relief hole that allows the fluid to return to the MC once released. MC needed a rebuild kit, problem solved. YMMV.

Plastic or aluminum screws are on purpose; just in case you decide to exit the seat at a high velocity directly over the gauge cluster, the windscreen will sheer off easily...

That's a great deal, I tried to get one but all they have is the xs size left which is kinda typical for Revzilla closeouts.The Schuberth distributor was blowing these out super cheap at the Barber Vintage Festival last year. I wanted one bad, but walked away empty handed as they have a round head shape and just don't fit my long-oval head.

So inquiring minds wonder... where does one get these $6 rim stickers? @Brick Send me $12 and I'll get you a set.

Yep, mine too. It may be a Yamaha thing; my FJR did it bad even after 60k miles. Never could figure out why. With the FJ I've ust come to expect it.

It's oh so tempting, but oh so dangerous. On a hot summer night a few years ago I was riding down the freeway with my visor up. I had a great big barn-door windscreen, so why worry? A giant June-Bug beetle hit me just above the eye brow, below the helmet edge. It felt like I was hit by a golf ball at 70mph. It hurt so bad I had to stop. If it had hit 1" lower... I'll ride with my visor 'open' now, but I'm always looking through it, never under it.

I'm dating myself here, but as a teen I watched Roger DeCoster, Brad Lackey, Chuck Sun, Jimmy Wienert, and a host of other greats race at Red Bud. -And a couple young punks in the support class named Bob Hannah and Marty Smith. Back when men were men and women were glad of it.

Of all the brands I've ever used, and I've used them all, Dunlops have been the worst. I tend to lean (pun intended) towards brands with 0 degree belt construction, providing a linear turn in vs. tires with a more triangular shape that fall into turns. But mostly, Dunlops don't hit the price/performance marker for me to buy them. I'd probably pick up a set of Q3s for a track day, but that's about it. Could Dunlop sport-touring tires be any worse if they tried? If there are 10 S-T tires are the market, Dunlops would rank a comfortable 9th, only barely beating out Shinko. Yep, I've tried them too.

Gotta love that 0-60 time of 2.9 sec. That is 0.2 sec quicker than a Tesla P85D that costs about $100K. The 1/4-mile time will drop quite a bit without a speed limiter. Hmmm... not really. A low E.T. comes predominately from a good 60' time. That in turn comes from light weight and brute power; getting the mass moving from a dead stop. The MPH would likely go up noticeably without the USA 'speed limiter' as MPH is measured in the last 66' of a 1/4 mile drag strip. Rule of thumb: The first 1/8 mile will be an indicator of the E.T., the last 1/8 mile will be an indicator of MPH. You can make a perfect pass, get completely off the throttle in the last couple hundred feet (coasting) and it will have very little impact on the E.T., but MPH will plummet.

@jjm In what way are the tubes misaligned? An easy test for axle/fork bottom alignment is to install the axle into the fork bottoms without the wheel. If it's a little off in length you can adjust one of the upper tubes in the triple clamp so the fork bottoms are the same 'height'. It makes us feel better, and installs go easier, but in reality, a small differential in length is no big deal as the longer of the two fork tubes just gets a hair more preload than the other. As piotrek pointed out, the right side fork bottom can move left/right. The no-wheel axle install test should highlight any tendency for bind.

@pattonme You may want to update Ohlins pricing on the top post; all retail prices for Ohlins shocks, forks, and cartridges sold in the USA have dropped in price. New price for YA335 is $575. New price for YA535 is $1100.