Dark&Stormy

You can enter diag mode by doing this: - turn the ignition key off and the engine run switch off- hold down the 'select' and 'reset' buttons- turn the ignition key on, keeping both buttons held down- after about 8-10 seconds, the display will change and say 'diag' - this is diagnostics mode. release both buttons.- press and hold down both buttons again- after about 2 seconds, the display changes and it will have a '1' where the speedo is, and above that, it will say 'di xx' (xx should be around 15). release both buttonsthe big '1' is the diagnostics code (not fault code), and you can flip through the codes with the 'select' (forwards) and 'reset' (backwards) buttons. each code is for a specific function (e.g. sensor or actuator, or ecu info), and where the 'xx' is, shows the particular value for that function. in this case '1' is throttle position sensor 1. if you turn the throttle at this point, you'll see the value at 'xx' change.click 'reset' a couple of times to flip backwards to diagnostics code 61, this is the fault code history. keep an eye on the 'xx' value, it will display the recorded fault codes. you should see '20', but if there other errors, it will display them (it scrolls through them every 2 seconds). I borrowed this from FZ09.org

Got my reflashed ECU back from 2WDW and sync'd the throttle bodies with a MotionPro SyncPro tool. 😎

I made it home from the Yukon (1800mi) with a worn out rear TKC80 with two rope plugs in it.

Really? Mines off by 5mph (2015 model)

Does the Ivan's flash correct the speedometer?

I broke the front fender and replaced it with a carbon fiber one from Moto Composites. 💸

Too many! I worked on them only when I had a few minutes to spare before starting work in the morning or after before going home late at night. I tried to use aircraft stripper, it kind of worked but I found it easier just to wet sand the paint off. (Factory paint is very thin) The rear wheel had a deep gouge in the side of the rim from an aftermarket fender that had come loose while riding and got caught in the wheel. I filled the gouge with bondo and sanded it smooth. Then primered on a few coats, wet sanded again, painted each wheel with about 1.5 cans of paint (several coats) and then each wheel got a can each of matte clearcoat (many coats). I let them cure for about a week before waxing and remounting the tires. So in conclusion if you'd rather be riding I recommend taking this on as a winter project not a mid summer project as I did. (I couldn't ride anywhere anyway US border was closed)🤷‍♂️

I used Duplicolor high performance bronze and Duplicolor matte clearcoat.

I dismounted, stripped, sanded, primed, and repainted the rims bronze.

Oh interesting. Well if you need to buy one the seller should refund you some money since the Euro4 version is priced higher than the Euro3.

Nope, but why go through that work of buying a catalyst, chopping out a section of pipe, and tig welding in the catalyst? The seller should just send you the correct kit. You mentioned that your bike is inspected every year, Does that include emmisions? If not, screw the Euro 4 kit and mount the one they gave you. Ride on.

The Euro 4 version should have a catalytic converter in the mid pipe. I have the Euro 3 version, no cat and slightly different canister design.

I havent made any epic bike trip plans for the FJ yet. However, I did rent a Honda XR150 this winter and spent a month exploring Vietnam. I rode from Hanoi to Saigon and then onward to the Mekong Delta region. Shout-out to Tigitmotorbikes.com for making it possible.

Ive hauled my FJ in an 08 Canyon with a 5'5" bed and the rear tire rests on the tailgate. I would just make sure your tailgate cables are in good shape.

Rokform anyone? Motorcycle Mounts for iPhone and Galaxy - Rokform Motorcycle mounts designed for...

I finally received and installed the 2nd gen Higdonion skid plate. (Ordered Aug 2 shipped Oct 3) Since I added the Leovince full system the old skid plate would no longer fit. Kris wasnt sure if the 2nd gen would fit this system so this is a test fit and..... it fits.👍

So I just straightened the studs out and installed the LV one more time and problem solved. 🤦‍♂️

Do you happen to know the size? Can you get them at any autoparts store or is this gonna be a dealer order?

Just tried putting the stock exhaust back on only to discover the shitty aluminum LV flanges that bent like a taco had actually bent my exhaust studs inward. Now the stock stainless steel flange wont fit. Thanks LeoVince. Theres good chance that the bent exhaust studs are preventing the collars from seating properly. What a can of worms.

Just tried putting the stock exhaust back on only to discover the shitty aluminum LV flanges that bent like a taco had actually bent my exhaust studs inward. Now the stock stainless steel flange wont fit. Thanks LeoVince.

Its new. Also the midpipe is damn near rubbing on the bottom right corner of the oil pan. I emailed both the seller and LVUSA. The thing is the miss matched header pipes shouldnt matter that much since you place the collars into the ports and secure them with the flanges and the 12mm nuts (they should be flush) Then you wiggle the pipes in and they're held inplace with the springs. Ill try new exhaust gaskets to see if that makes a difference. Also the flanges cant be torqued to 14ft/lbs as LV says or else they will bend like cheese. I bent one trying to torque it down and had to flatten it out in a 20 ton press. The installation instructions are complete garbage and LV has a crappy minute long video showing the final 3 steps of installation..

LeoVince Stock

I keep trying to refit the headers to the ports but each time I get them flush and tightened down I start the engine all I can hear is a loud exhaust leak coming from ports. Is this normal as in it will go away after a few heat cycles? Ive tried refitting it 3 times I even tried without the copper gaskets installed. The instructions are so vague and lost in translation they are laughable. This is supposed to be a reputable brand yeah?

So after the fourth assembly (Thats right!) I finallly got it set right. Thanks Skip for the tip on placing the shims into valve keepers.

Will do, thanks.