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About greyghost38405

  • Birthday 05/09/1956
  1. I discovered I had the spring plate installed backwards. Otherwise all else was OK. All well now. Works a treat. Thanks for all your ideas!
  2. OK, all fixed now. Problem turned out to be a faulty ECU, covered under warranty. In a moment of weakness (prescience?) I had purchased Yamaha's YES warranty when I bought the bike two years ago, and it runs until 2021. Kudos to my shop for accepting all of my mods without blinking, for quick diagnosis, and a rapid turnaround. As a side benefit, my faith in my own wrenching has returned. :-) Thanks to all here who weighed in as well. Now, back to the slipper clutch mod... after some riding! Cheers, Doug
  3. Gerdawg, Yes, these other parts were also part of the kit. My concern was getting the stack order correct, hence my original post. Cheers, Doug
  4. I found that adjusting the suspension properly for my weight cured this issue, which I noticed at freeway speeds on the way home from the dealer when new. Cheers, Doug
  5. Sleepy, FWIW, Mine’s a 2015 too and, despite others seeming to be able to clear codes, I have been unable to so either with the stock display or code reader. :-( I hope you you have better luck! Cheers, Doug
  6. Apparently flashing the ECU can result in the simultaneous TCS and CEL issue, with some inmates complaining of unnecessary engine roughness which improved once the fault codes were cleared. Not so in my case. The dealer found that Cylnder #3 was misfiring. So, not knowing wether this misfiring resulted from the 600 mile service, the months waiting in my (heated) garage, or as a result of my wrenching, I'm left scratching my head as to the cause. I tore the bike apart again today, removed the air box, and checked all the wires and connections, removed and re-plugged the wires at the coils. Same result. Bike runs stupid. The codes for the three cylinders, 33,34,35 are not present in my bike's list of diagnostic codes. Furthermore, not being able to find the original code displayed anywhere, and not being aware I could read fault codes while the bike was running, I chose not to swap the coils as recommended above and put it back together. Current plan is to return to the dealer Tuesday am at open, and let them diagnose the issue. I suspect a faulty coil. They do not stock them or I would have purchased one swapped the #3 out during todays look around. Can you tell I'd rather be riding at this point? :-) Cheers, Doug
  7. Hi all. I appreciate your thoughts and assistance. Some history: Bike was purchased 2 years ago, and lives in WI. I'm here in the summers a bit and decided, after visiting for many bikeless summers, that I would pick up a bike here. 800 miles on the odo is testament to how little I've actually ridden over the past two summers. The bike had it's 600 mile service this past winter, and sat in my garage until later this summer when I came to visit again, this time with farkles. I was in and out for much of the summer, so timing dictated I remove the ecu for flashing by 2WD when I first arrived and re-install on a subsequent visit. I did not actually ride the bike post 600 mile service. I returned a month after removing the ECU to replace it and, since the bike was apart, proceeded to add some farkles. I added McCruise cruise control, Denali driving lights, VStream wind screen, flashing LED rear brake light, Ohlins FKS504s, radiator guard. I attempted (unsuccessfully) to replace the oem clutch with the slipper clutch, as discussed in another thread here. Finally, wanting just to ride a bit instead of wrenching, I returned the oem clutch to it's basket and went for a ride. I noticed right away that my bike was running poorly, like a tractor, and the TCS and Check Engine lights remained lit. I ordered a fault code reader but, anxious to resolve the issue in the time before its arrival, returned to my dealer to see if they could perhaps remove the fault codes or tell me what might be going on. Apparently the
  8. OK all... Still in the soup here. Gerdawg, yes it's me re the problems with a slipper clutch install. I reverted to the original clutch. All is good there. Other fish to fry just now, like why my bike runs so poorly. Yes, it's possibe something got disconnected resulting in the fault code for cylinder 3. I will tear the bike back down and investigate. I received my AL329 code reader along with the proper adapter, only to discover that it does not read the 2015 fault codes, despite updating to new firmware. No clue how to proceed here, although I did see an FZ-09 thread where this issue was mentioned specifically in reference to 2015 bikes. Adding to my inability to diagnose in my garage, if I scroll through the Diagnostic codes on the bike, fault code 33 is not present in the list (#3 cylinder misfiring). Go figure. However, the dealer was able to read it... At present, I'm left with a visual inspect of wiring. if nothing obvious there, I may have to prostrate myself before my dealer and ask for absolution. Unfortunately, the wiring for my McCruise and driving lights has them baffled and, since they won't let me on the shop floor, it may be hours before they can figure those things out and make (hopefully) some progress on the misfiring issue. They're reasonable but, as far as they're concerned, I'm a month out of warranty with some interesting mods. And so it goes.
  9. Warranty? It depends on what failed. If the coil is bad, then it might possibly be covered. If the wiring is damaged because of your cruise install, or something else that was touched while working on the bike, then it’s not Yamaha’s fault but the last person who worked on it. Skip, my sentiments as well. This is 2015, so I should be able to check Spark in Diagnostic mode. I like your idea to swap coils and see if the error follows the offending coil. I receive the yamaha adapter for my obd2 code reader on Monday so I should be able to see this then. Is there any way to view the P035x code in Diagnostics Mode without a reader? Thanks and Cheers, Doug
  10. I have this recurrent (as in on all the time, even after clearing) fault code, and the engine is running poorly. My dealer indicated that Cylinder #3 was misfiring and that this was the left most cylinder. As I just finished installing a McCruise cruise control, which takes its tach info from the coil lead on the left most cylinder, I thought I might have gotten something wrong during the install. However, I subsequently discovered the FJ-09 Service Manual states the left most Cylinder is actually #1, so not the fault here. As well, returning the bike to stock wiring for this cylinder makes no difference in how it runs. I'm guessing there might be a an open or short circuit in the Cylinder #3 coil wire somewhere along its run, or perhaps I have a bad bad coil (at 800 miles on the odometer). I will remove the tupperware tomorrow and visually inspect the coil wiring to/from Cyinder #3 for any inconsistencies. Can anyone tell me how I might test the coil leads for proper voltage? If that is in spec, how might the coil itself be tested? How easy is it to drop a new coil? Thanks and Cheers, Doug
  11. Well... I removed the stack, measured it, carefully replaced the bits. The stack measures 43mm, which is within spec. The second metal part faces 'out' as mentioned above. Apart from one of the new friction plates possibly in the wrong location, (now corrected), all looks OK. Spline is connected, actuator arm lined up with the dot. After reassembly, I have the same issue I had before - the clutch does not completely disengage. Any other ideas before I take it in to my local shop? Cheers, Doug
  12. Thanks for your feedback. I will take the clutch apart and see if there is anything obvious. If nothing jumps out out at me, I will remove the current (slipper) stack and measure the thickness. I will reassemble the original (stock FJ-09) stack, measure it, and compare thicknesses. I'll let you know what I find and, hopefully, what steps I take to make it work. Cheers, Doug
  13. Well, the install seemed to go well. All back together, clutch actuator lever in the right spot (it seems). However, I now have a situation where there is insufficient cable travel to completely disengage the clutch. I can move the lever on the spindle to different positions, adjust the clutch cable accordingly but, no matter which combination of lever locations (even 90 degrees to the cable at first engagement) and cable adjustments I come up with, I cannot get the clutch to completely disengage. Any ideas on what to check next? Cheers, Doug
  14. I’m about to install the Partshark kit in my 2015 FJ-09. Comparing the 2017 FJ-09 parts fiche with the 2015, and recognizing the additional parts to be installed from the Partshark kit, I have compiled a stack order as below.Could someone who has plied these waters before confirm my stack order assessment and, if it looks OK, answer my remaining question? In order, from the inside out, (using 2017 parts fiche reference numbers), I get: 13 4B1-16324-00-00 from PartShark kit 12 1TD-16383-00-00 from PartShark kit 5 B90-16331-00-00 from PartShark kit 6 5VY-16325-00-00 re-use from 2015 clutch (2015 #5) 4 STA-16321-00-00 re-use from 2015 clutch (2015 #4) 6 5VY-16325-00-00 re-use from 2015 clutch (2015 #5) 4 STA-16321-00-00 re-use from 2015 clutch (2015 #4) 6 5VY-16325-00-00 re-use from 2015 clutch (2015 #5) 4 STA-16321-00-00 re-use from 2015 clutch (2015 #4) 6 5VY-16325-00-00 re-use from 2015 clutch (2015 #5) 4 STA-16321-00-00 re-use from 2015 clutch (2015 #4) 6 5VY-16325-00-00 re-use from 2015 clutch (2015 #5) 4 STA-16321-00-00 re-use from 2015 clutch (2015 #4) 14 5VY-16325-00-00 re-use from 2015 clutch (2015 #5) 4 STA-16321-00-00 re-use from 2015 clutch (2015 #4) 15[span] [/span]4B1-16324-00-00 (T1.6) [span] [/span][span] [/span]5VY-16325-00-00 (T2.0) [span] [/span][span] [/span]4B1-16325-00-00 (T2.3) 5 B90-16331-00-00 from PartShark kit 7 1TD-16324-00-00 from PartShark kit 5 B90-16331-00-00 from PartShark kit (installed offset) My question is: The parts fiche for #15 shows 3 possible part numbers, listed above. Of these part numbers, the only part I have available to re-use is a (2015 #4 or 2017 #6) 5VY-16325-00-00, at thickness 2.0. Can I assume that this is the correct part to re-install in the stack at this location? Thanks and Cheers, Doug
  15. I noticed that same thing when I first rode my bike home from the dealer. Once I cranked in the proper preload for my weight, front and rear, this issue went away completely. Hope this helps.