Jump to content

manimal

New Member
  • Posts

    4
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by manimal

  1. I recently did the a chain/sprocket change (@ about 20K miles) and thought I would append dazzler24's posting. Purchased: 1)Complete kit from SprocketCenter.com; D.I.D. 525 VO, 47/16 (damper). The nice part about purchasing the kit is the chain come is the correct length for your bike and sprocket combo (no cutting required). 2) D.I.D. KM500R chain cutter/link swage and front sprocket nut from Chaparral Motorsports. 3) 30mm socket from local Auto Zone. Watched these 2 instructional vids: https://youtu.be/wuE3qoFpWWQ, https://youtu.be/6Yj4sKsguvU. The first is instruction on using the DID cutter, the other is more general, but very detailed. Both are worth while. The instructor in the DID vid states 'you do not need to put a lot of force' into it. I found the force required to be fairly substantial (but I am a 60ish skinny pencil-neck). I think the advantage of this tool is you cannot 'overswage' because you 'bottom out' on tool/link hardpoints. Lessons: 1) The spline interface for the front sprocket is very tight. I kept rotating the sprocket until the spline engaged, then it goes on fairly easy. 2) I was unable to tighten the rear sprocket nuts to OEM torque spec. At one point, it felt like one of the studs was rotating. I pulled the drive hub, looked at the backside of the studs and all looked OK. Replaced the drive hub, 'gingerly' loosened the nuts and retightened, creeping up to 50Nm (not the OEM 80Nm). I'll be monitoring for awhile (checking torque). 3)I checked the swaged rivet head diameters against the OEM requirement of 5.5 - 5.8mm and master link width against that of other links in the chain (don't recall the numbers, but they were pretty close +/- 1mm or less). 4) Set chain slack to about 25mm. I previously followed the OEM spec of 5 - 15mm, but I believe this may have accelerated wear of the original chain. Epilog: Haven't ridden at the time of publication. I don't know what a shop would charge for this work, but I spent about $320 for parts and tools.
  2. There's a variable I didn't see mentioned in this conversation; the chain slack varies as you rotate the wheel. The best theory I've heard regarding this phenomenon is that the rear sprocket is off-center, creating a high spot, and a low spot 180deg opposite (with some variation due to tolerances in the chain bushings/pins). If you rotate the rear wheel so the high spot points aft, the chain will exhibit the least slack/greatest tension. When I adjust the chain slack to 5mm with the high spot pointed aft (least slack/greatest tension}, and then rotate until I get the greatest slack and measure I get 30mm+ of slack. It's always seemed logical to measure your slack at the point of highest tension, to ensure you don't over-tension the chain. But, I've always wondered, how much variation between minimum and maximum slack is acceptable?
  3. These instructions were very helpful when I did my 1st tire replacement. I used the bike centerstand and a yoke (type) front stand to support the bike. It was very stable and required minimal space. Attached is an image of my front stand.
  4. I thought I read in the Owners, or Service, manual that this is an 'oiled' air filter. Wouldn't some of the filter oil end up inside the air box?
×