raggededge

So if you actually reach your finger under the bracket, you can easily push the plug up and loosen it in no time.

I just finished now myself - kinda chili her in NY. Install went really smooth. Test run around the neighborhood was so nice, i initially thought I maybe did something wrong. Clutch pull is butter as well as the shifting, like to this point you can't really notice you hit the next gear - in either direction. I was strangely amazed at what $230 and an hour of your time could do to your FJ. I have the Andreanis as well and have already dropped the congressperson side to 2.5. I'll probably get the upgrade from Matt over the winter as he seems to make the Andreani's sing. Do you have a parts list or the like to do this?

Hey thanks much. That helps. I might just add that to the Farkle list.

Mind getting a profile shot further away?

Has anyone priced a new ECU to have one without the flash?

Did the APS adjustment last week and have a little time riding it. I’d say it’s better in most situations. Still a little herky jerky in 1rst at low speeds. Put on new shoes and angled metal valvestems over the weekend. Metzeler Roadtec 01’s. Wow the bike actually turns so easily now. I had no idea that the flat spots would affect it so much. And today I just got the handlebar recall and state inspection done.

I’ve hit 114 indicates several times with cases on and stock windscreen in low. Haven’t experienced any trouble but I have a feeling it’s because I’m 230 without gear lol. I keep the sucker planted!

Just did this. Haven’t gotten a chance to ride it yet. Values went from #14 -17 closed, 101 open, #15 -18 closed and 101 open. New values #14 -13, 97 & #15 -14, 97 The bolts required a little more loosening than I thought they would before it would move. Also my small gear wrench bit set was the perfect size for the job. Finally, I used a bar clamp in spread to hold the tank up. Worked great. I’ll include some picture. https://imgur.com/a/ouXkHhW

I just wanted to update this. I cut out the resistors because I too figured they were for load balancing. After some time the blinkers have turned very orange and close to red. I expect at some point they will burn out and I’ll have to do this over again. Oh well lesson learned.

I like those lights. I also now know I don’t like a beak. Thanks for the video.

About a week and a half ago I had words with this dumb buck. Thankfully I had slowed way down since I know this is a big crossing point. What made me mad is when it decided to double back! ? https://imgur.com/a/UoQl2MS

If you don’t want to replace it right away, drill a small hole where the crack ends to keep it from splitting further.

[quite] I think its an eBay lever thing. I had ASV's on my SV650 and they were butter smooth both sides. I'm pretty sure the clutch was a shorty anyway haha. At the end of the day, $25 for a set of levers, ya get what ya pay for. Enjoying my $20 amazon levers just fine. https://smile.amazon.com/Clutch-Levers-Yamaha-2015-2017-2016-2017/dp/B019IK6Z7O/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=yo_pop_d_pd_title

https://imgur.com/a/KSaUgNR Added an auxiliary fuse block from https://www.fuzeblocks.com. My added lights got bumped on a month ago and drained the battery dead. Then I added an additional 12v outlet with blue LED’s. I wanted the full 10 amps but also switched so I wouldn’t have to worry about parasitic drain. Everything is crimped, soldered, and heat shrunk where appropriate and also in a loom where it passes under the seat bracket. I also wired direct a bit of 8 gauge wire to a winch style quick connect plug. This is for the jump pack I bought. I wanted something more compact than the alligator clamps which would also have a hard time reaching the positive post. Pretty pleased with it all and now it will be easy to tie in another set of driving lights and some accent lights possibly.

Much better but I would still check your compression clearance.