trokarr

The Niken GT is already advertised on the Yamaha Canada website for $20,999 (Cdn$) plus freight and PDI: https://www.yamaha-motor.ca/products/details-build-price.php?model=5220&group=MC&catId=133 No thanks.

In Canada, we don't get the red color for the Tracer GT, but they decided to spring a red regular Tracer on us, complete with red front fender.

I'm looking for the part number for the male connector that inserts into the white connector labeled #101 in 3way's post on page 1. It is not a FRS connector. The FRS appear to be for the connectors labeled #99 and #100. https://i.postimg.cc/ZRTrqLpm/IMG_3774.png

K&L supply is the US distributor for OE Yamaha connectors and pins. They’re in CA. Don’t know what shipping to Canada would be sorry. -Skip Would you happen to have a part number for the connector? I can just call K&L then and get a price. I looked through their various catalogs but could not find this specific connector. Thanks.

Where did you get this connector? The only place that I found that sells them is in the UK and they do not ship to Canada. Do you have a US source?

Thanks @trokarr , I will have a look at Regina. I've read reviews of the MP tool and it was a mixed bag of success and failure. MP cut a corner to many on this one. I looked at the MP tool when I was going to install my new chain but went with the Regina at the last minute because it looked more solid; so glad I did now. If you do decide on the Regina tool, the instructions supplied with the tool suck. I used these instead as the staking procedure for solid rivets was much clearer: https://www.getgeared.co.uk/core/media/media.nl?id=5219&c=731612&h=5aa87151f151425438d5

I used the Regina riveting tool shown here: https://fortnine.ca/en/regina-chain-assembly-and-rivet-tool-805199 You use the bar above the tool (it fits into the threaded hole of the U-shaped top piece) with a hammer to stake the rivets. I used it with solid pin rivets (which are much harder to stake than the hollow tip one that you used) and the tool worked fine. Very solid tool. Here is a picture of my finished chain (the link with the black mark is the master link):

I just replaced the front sprocket, chain and rear sprocket on mine after 12,450 miles. I also heard that the three should be replaced as a set. My front sprocket and chain were toast but my rear sprocket showed no wear even when put up against a new JT sprocket. I did change all three but I kept the OEM rear sprocket and will reuse it when (if) my JT sprocket wears out. I would recommend just getting the front and chain if the rear looks good. I used a staked rivet master link because that is what the chain manufacturer recommended and supplied with the chain. I'm sure there will be a lot debate about which type of master link to use, but the clip style can come off and you don't want the chance of your chain bunching up at the front sprocket and damaging the engine case ($$$). Breaking the chain is easy even without a chain tool; grind the rivet heads flat and punch the pins out with a center punch or pry the link off with a screw driver (less than 5 min job).

20k km on OEM Dunlop tyres.... must be a record. Would love to know how/what kind of riads and riding. I got 13k on original Dunlops and was probably 1500km overdue. Next set was Metzeler Roadtec 01...outstanding tyre while it lasted as the rear is down to legal limit now at 10k km...disappointed given the price tag and longevity claims...front still ok... so have just ordered a new Pirelli Angel GT. I do 2/3rds commute 1/3rd tour... 20k km/yr in all... I don't know if it is a record for an OEM rear tire, but I got 19,929 km on it. I am retired so I spend my summers touring Canada and the USA. I ride 95% highway/5% city and use my bike mainly for touring. I don't ride the interstates but stick to secondary roads. I ride only 1-up and with a tail bag and Shad 23 side cases packed full. I will say I probably should have changed the rear 1000-1500 km before I did, but I was on a trip and the tire looked fine. When I got home I noticed that I had actually worn through the cords and was riding on probably only 2 mm of rubber at the end. Really dumb on my part and I plan to change out the next tire well before this happens again; I learned my lesson. Realistically, I would say the OEM rear was good for 17.5-18K km based on my riding style.

I put on a RoadSmart III rear on my bike just before a 1800 km trip and it performed great. I got 19,900 km (~12,400 miles) on the stock Dunlop without a puncture. About 1500 km into my trip, I picked up a finishing nail in one of the groves on the RS III that went all the way into the tire. I used a Stop-and-Go mushroom plug on it and it seems to be fine. My local motorcycle shop says they won't patch tires anymore (only plugs) because the inside of the tire is too oily to hold a patch. I don't know how accurate that is but time will tell with the plug. I'm not inclined to spend another $250 to buy and mount another tire so I hope this one holds for at least 20K km like the OEM tire.

I hit 20K km on my bike on a trip through SD and started hearing a clunking noise when I started moving in 1st gear. When I got home, I took off the front sprocket cover and found that the front sprocket was toast (the rear sprocket was still like new). The back OEM tire was also gone so I ordered a Dunlop RoadSmart III rear tire, a new front sprocket (Yamaha), a new rear sprocket (JT), and a Z-ring chain. Got it all put back together but staking the solid pins on the Regina master link was a total pain. Some pics: I'm going to take it for ride shortly to scrub the new rear tire.

My parts are still in transit. I was planning on buying a breaker/riveter kit most likely the Motion Pro kit. I didnt know Regina chains were hard to rivet. I could have sworn it said it needed the heavy duty rivet tool, but now that I look at it again, it does not mention it. It must have been for another chain I was looking at and I got confused (getting old). My bad. I was also looking at the Motion Pro chain tool. Let me know if yours works; I am waiting on a back tire and an OEM front sprocket so I have some time. Also, if you don't already have one get one of these (well worth the money): https://fortnine.ca/en/motion-pro-chain-alignment-tool

What are you using to break your chain and rivet the new Regina chain? I understand that the solid pins on link supplied with the Regina chain are pretty hard to rivet so you need a heavy duty riveter. Did you do the job yourself? I plan to replace the chain, sprockets and rear tire at the same time on my 2016 and I am looking at similar hardware but need to buy a chain tool that will work with this setup. Thanks in advance.

I live in Manitoba, Canada. My insurance is ~$1200 per year and I have a good record. Insurance is provincial government no-fault insurance only, no private companies, no shopping around; one set rate. Only upside is that I can cancel my insurance at the end of the riding season and get a good chunk back and the rate for insuring my bike over the winter is only $40.

I don't want to hijack the thread, but it seems Yamaha is reasonably certain that there is going to be a market for the Niken (and three-wheelers in general) and has filed patents for a three-wheeled version of the Vmax: http://www.visordown.com/motorcycle-news-general-news/yamaha-files-patent-mad-three-wheel-v-max If it is ever made, a three-wheeled Vmax would be a monster.