FrankQC

I am in Quebec city. I ordered a Bagster Ready Luxe with Bultex from Silverstone (France) back in January 2020. At that time, the seat was 295€, there was a 10% new year discount (29€), then they added 53€ for oversea shipping, for a total of 320€. As wordsmith stated, no sales tax. If my memory serves me right, I think I had ~60 CAD « surprise » when the delivery guy knocked on my door. Still well worth it, really like the seat. As for the time frame, sorry I cannot help. I ordered it in January, all I remind is that I received it well in advance before the riding season, which began early April for me last year.

Same here. I also found out over the years that torque wrenches calibrations are often all over the place, especially on lower-end models found at big box stores. That *may* explain why some users might have issues with torques. To verify that, I once purchased 3x of the exact same 199$ model at a local Canadian store (that also sells tires...), just to find out none of them were in spec, with over 30% discrepancy between the best and the worst. All 3 went back to the store same day as this was just an exercise. As for me, I am lucky enough to have a couple high-end Cementex torque wrenches provided by my employer for electrical work. These wrenches gets calibrated yearly, so I know they're spot on. I use them on my bike for all critical torques and I never had any issue following the mfg specs (besides chain slack LOL). Also, unless specified otherwise, I believe all torques in the manuel are « dry ». Any form of residue (oil, anti-seize, dry loctite powder) on the the threads will act as a lubricant and can greatly reduce threading friction, ending up in applying way too much torque than specified if the threads were dry. Unless there is a « LT » (loctite) sybol besides the fastener in the manual (which acts as lube during threading), I presume the torque spec is dry, so I clean the threads and inspect the bolt for galling first before installation. As usual, YMMV..

Same here, but way sooner. My 2016 FJ began shedding O-rings at about 8000 miles on the OEM chain. I replaced it a while ago with a DID 525 VX3 along with new JT sprockets, never looked back.

+1 for the Givi. Problem is the three black allen bolts you see there have spacers underneath to accomodate the black ring. If you remove everything and expect it to look OEM, you’ll have to get 3 OMG chromed bolts to replace these.

(Y/B) wire from the ECU to the headlight LED's DC-DC converter. That (Y/B) wire goes to ground as soon as the engine is running, turning ON the headlight and allowing Hi-Beam through the handlebar switch. On the LED controller connector (below the cluster), (Y/B) is the negative (-) trigger for the LOW-Beam, (Y) is the negative (-) trigger for the High-Beam from the handlebar switch. (I would personally NOT do that for the same reasons as Romanion)

Same for me, my speedometer registers a steady 8-9% higher than my GPS, all the time, whatever the speed.

Hey Maxime, welcome to the club ! I'm also from Québec (City that is) and have a '16 as well. I did lots of tweaks on my FJ to make it mine so feel free to PM me if you ever have questions or if you feel the need to have a french chat about that bike 😉

Thanks kimmie. Unfortunately it is the exact same way I wired mine up so all my previous posts in this thread are still relevant. It worked fine a while then my ECU failed (yellow output wire). That yellow wire connected to pin 86 of your relay is coming straight from the ECU and as stated before, it is only a logic meant to control the headlight module, not strong enough and/or protected to drive a relay coil (from my sad experience...) Anyway to each his own and I'm glad to see yours works fine for now. I only wanted to chime in to share what happened to me when I did the same. Cheers !

Hi kimmie, Can you share with us how Karl did the electrical connection ? As I stated before, the High/Low beam switch signal on the handlebar is coming straight from an unprotected output on the ECU. If anything happens to that line (relay failure, short circuit, ...) the ECU will take the hit and fail (fact). I'd be very interested in knowing how yours is wired up and for how long it has been holding on. Maybe he did find a better and safer way then I did

I've been in electronics all my life and managed to do a stupid mistake on the FJ so that why felt the need to chime in To answer your questions: 1- Yes... I ALWAYS use relays to feed additional loads on cars and bikes to prevent damaging OEM stuff (switches, wiring, ....) In that case, I wired up a traditional 30A relay for this purpose. The positive (+) side of the coil to a switched 12V output (through a handlebar switch) and the negative (-) side of the coil to the headlight (-) trigger (Y/B) wire. 12V constant feed directly from the battery. That way, my added lights would follow the OEM headlights and not power up until the bike is started. It worked for about 5-6 cycles until the relay coil extra current blew the ECU output. When that happened, the ECU Y/B wire wasn't giving its (-) logic anymore once the bike was running, so no more headlights. I had to disconnect the Y/B wire from the ECU and short it to ground to get everything back. No big deal but now, the headlights turns on as soon as I turn the key instead of waiting for the motor to run. 2- If you are into electronics, you probably already know that high power LEDs are very sensitive devices in regards to voltage and current. LEDs chips MUST be limited to a very precise current value to be effective and prevent early failures. Since E=RI and voltage fluctuations would also affect current, the DC-DC converter is there to analyze current and dynamically adjust its output voltage to match the exact current the LEDs needs. When LEDS heats up, their internal resistance changes, current draw is different, DC-DC converter adjust accordingly, so voltage is irrelevant in the LED world.

Hey guys, electronics engineer here.. Trust me, this is a VERY BAD idea to tap into the OEM headlight electrical circuit on the FJ09, especially for a novice... The LED headlights (both High and Low) are driven by a DC-DC converter below the headlight assembly. The positive (+) power for that converter is connected to a switched 12V and the negative (-) is tied to the ground. Where it gets complicated is how it is controlled... you probably realized that the headlights won't turn on unless you start the motor. That happens because it't the ECU that sends this signal to the LED controller. Once the motor starts, the ECU output a tiny negative (-) control signal to one of its output. (That is not a strong relay output, it's a sensitive "open collector" transistor output). That signal is split between the Low beam input of the DC-DC converter and the High beam handlebar switch. The output of that switch then goes to the High beam input of the DC-DC converter. There is no easy way to just "tap" into that system and control something else. Also, it is not safe for the ECU to install a relay on the negative (-) control High and Low signal. 1- We don't know how strong is the open collector ECU output for that (even for a relay coil) and 2- When power is removed from a relay coil, there's a phenomena called "extra current" that back-feeds a very large amount of voltage (for a very short duration) back to its source, in this case the ECU. What happens when a tiny output collector sees a high voltage glitch like this ? That transistor inside the ECU blows off and that output dies (Don't ask me how I know...). I already did that on many many other bikes and it always worked, but the FJ ECU just didn't liked it that time.. The only way to protect against this would be to put a reverse diode (freewheeling / flyback) on the relay coil to "eat" that extra current before it reaches the ECU, which I wasn't smart enough to do in the first place.. But again, even with that protection, the ECU output may not be strong enough to drive a 30A inductive relay coil, so I would discard that option and leave the OEM wiring alone. Long story short, if you want to add accessories to your bike, install separate wires / fuses / relays / switches directly to the battery.... If you want switched power, then add a relay on a switched AUX connector to switch your accessories. These AUX switched outputs are safe because they are fed directly by the key.