clint

I just replaced my shock and it was fairly straight forward. Start with it on the center stand then remove the front bolt using a ratchet and extension. It fits just fine through the wiring. Just nudge it aside. Next, remove the middle dog-bone bolt through the hole in the swing-arm. Now, you can raise the swingarm up by placing a 2x4 under the rear wheel. Raise it up until you can get a ratchet and wrench on the lower shock bolt. Install the new shock attaching the front bolt first, then rear shock bolt, then dog bone.

Here is a side-by-side of the two plugs.

Very nice work @fanowater ! Looks OEM!

That's the one I have. It's very nice! High quality, and it too is cat approved. Ah, winter sucks. I'm bored...can you tell? :-/

I've got a set of NGK CR9EIA-9 sitting in the garage, ready to be installed sometime this winter. That being said I'll keep an eye on the header temperature using this infrared thermometer. It's cat approved!

Wow, glad I bought and installed mine a few months ago! Awesome product! I even purchased a spare Trail Tech switch.

Thank you for pointing that out. Did you order your Ohlins yet?Ended up going a different direction all together. http://fj-09.org/thread/4637/christmas-cogent-dynamics

OMG...seriously? Someone changed the "Subject" of this thread I started from "Do Not Buy" to "Issues with"? Did someone get their feelings hurt? Did I give an unfair assessment? No message to me with a "heads up, but we try be PC around here." WTF?

It is unfortunate that the thread got started with such a strong negative connotation.That's because: "Unless I hear from K-tech explaining everything that is wrong with their shock - Do Not Buy - K-Tech Razor-R Rear Shock" Was simply too long of a subject. (rofl) Seriously though. As received, I just don't think this is a useable shock. Too many design flaws with the lack of preload provided, and silly tommy bars to make the adjustments. The absence of a torrington bearing is just cutting corners given the resistance that the spring offers. The tommy bars bend excessively from the torque. People, take a look at a "normal" Razor-R shock. The adjustment rings have a HUGE number of threads for adjustment. Now look at what I received. They flipped the position of the base plate and adjustment rings, leaving VERY little thread to adjust for preload because the base plate is at the END of the threads. I stand by my original assessment.

What shock you going with Clint? I'll start a new thread when it comes in and let you know.

I just received a very cordial personal message from Oxracing regarding the issues I had with my purchase. Great guys who seem to be willing to make things right with their recent modifications to the shock preload adjusters. Unfortunately, I'd already chosen to go with a different product. Hopefully someone else will buy and confirm that K-tech's new setup on this shock remediates the issues.

You don't need to do that in order to extract the amount Bruce was specifying. And you can see from the drawing that locktite (LT) is used on that bolt, so it doesn't break free without offering blood and skin to the motorcycle gods. Simply unscrew the cap and pour out somewhere between 220-250 cc's of the 5 wt fork oil .

It's a bit of a long story, but yes, they were given that opportunity. The choices they made in several areas in the build of this shock were just wrong (lack of torrington bearing, etc). Even if the spring were longer, pretty much all of the adjustment would have to be made on the TOP base ring which is inaccessible when mounted. I believe they took an existing shock from their catalog and turned it upside down for use on the FJ-09 which provided for only 3mm of adjustment.

Absolutely! I've been working with @pattonme throughout this whole process and he's been my liaison to the K-tech representative. BTW - working with @pattonme has been amazing! I've seen the emails he's exchanged with the Rep, and he's extremely knowledgable with all things "suspension". If I choose to purchase ANY of the shocks that he is a vendor for, I wouldn't hesitate to use him again. Exceptional knowledge, service and price. BTW - there are even more issues with this shock than just the lack of preload that I just won't go into. But rest assured, pattonme has called them out on all of them.

I hate to write a review like this, but it truly is deserved. After reviewing the merits of rear shocks, I chose to buy the K-Tech Razr-R and it has promptly been returned without even mounting it! Here's a picture of what I was expecting. This is what I got! That's right, due to the length of the shock body and their decision to use a 6" spring, preload adjustment is maxed out AS-IS! +- 3mm is what you get according to them....REALLY!?!?! Pretty much NO WAY to set a proper sag. Seriously gentlemen, throw this one back to the engineers and tell them to pull their heads out of their arses!!

Nice work brick! Let me know what Rick comes up with. No doubt it will be exceptional!

Ah yes, I remember my first ride on the FJ. A bit more "raw and visceral" than I expected. A bit "unrefined". Notable was a "roughness" in the 3500-3800 RPM range. However, everything on this bike smooths out after 2K miles. The transformation is subtle, yet absolute. The shifting, suspension, engine all smooths out considerably. To that end, I backed off the preload and rebound considerably (I'm only 168 lbs). I also had the ECU reflashed by Two Wheel Dyno Works, created my own vibration mounts for the handlebars using neoprene washers and filled the handlebars with butyl rubber caulk. Now, I appreciate what visceralness remains. I can feel this bike talking to me. It's all in your right hand. She can be compliant and smooth, touring for thousands of miles, or slide you to the back of the saddle as you turn off the TCS, grab a handful of throtttle and raise her nose to the sky! In comparison, I took a local Versys 1000 for a 20 mile test ride and thought afterwards....WOW! SMOOTH!.....BORING! So, in summary, it's a slow transformation for the bike....and YOU.

Needs to wait!?!? You're pretty much done! Seriously, you're only about 1 hour of work before it's done. Super simple mod. Where do you live? I'M COMIN' OVER!

Those are my exact feelings on the matter. APE it, and forget it.

I didn't. I have separate keys for the ignition and the FJR cases. It's not really a bad thing since I can leave the engine running to power the headlight and hazard lights while I open the case to retrieve my rain gear. I'd have to go to a locksmith if I wanted to use one key. I tried reconfiguring the lock tumblers but couldn't get the "blades" out of their "slots". It's very easy with a pair of needle nose pliers. Just be careful as there are small springs underneath the blades. I worked on a table with a couple of paper towels spread out so the parts can be seen easily and the springs don't roll away.

This kit I got from Woolich Racing is very close in price for just buying a QS, so it's worth the tiny extra cost to have auto-blipper and launch control ?( which I may use a few times) I mainly use the QS since I spoiled myself using one on my FZ-07... I'm not trying to derail the thread or anything or start a debate... Auto-blipper? Launch control? I'm a curmudgeon luddite...please. Ride the bike. Use the clutch. Or buy a scooter.

Yeah, honestly my FJ-09 shifts so smoothly OOTB, I can't imagine gaining $300 - $400 worth of value from this swap. But then again, I'm not on the front straight of VIR banging down through the gears going into turn one. Then....I might want it.

Thank you... how lazy of me...did not read that through. Taking things apart sounds more fun anyway. Just have to see how to get, and keep the front end in the air. I wasted more time trying to fit some small hose down the tube with the cap removed than I should have. Remove the right fork, period. It's a 2 hr process, if you go slowly and consume beer. Do NOT be intimidated by this job. It's truly easy. Bruce detailed the process nicely in his first post. Follow that, and you're gold. I bought some Rox Shox 2.5 wt fork oil from Amazon along with a Ratio Rite Cup and had a small syringe capable of measuring 15cc. Let me know if you have any questions.

I got around to making this change yesterday and went riding today. MUCH BETTER! The compression is much more compliant now! No more harshness! There is still significant dive on braking, so I don't see much change there, but for the 2 hrs of work and $10, this is a significant improvment. Thanks Bruce!

Thanks for taking the time to respond and write this up Bruce!