Lone Wolf

Only the GT has cruise control. Not talking about modify factory cruise control on a GT. the OP just bought a tracer with no factory cruise control.

Yeah but the factory cruise control only starts to work at 4th gear. Do a search for McCruise on this forum. Their add-on cruise control works in lower gears which is helpful. https://www.mccruise.com/en-us/products/yamaha-mt-09-tracer-fj-09-new-throttle-by-wire-mccruise

The following thread has info on Tutoro and Scottoiler

Better than a barn door.

Just put a lip on the stock wind screen and see if that is enough. It will pull the air "up and over" more than it's height would indicate. You can get a good quality one from MRA, Givi, Puig, or a cheap $30 knock-off like I did and be prepared to alter the brackets etc. to make it work In addition to pulling the air higher, a lip will greatly reduce turbulent air. I am only 5' 8" and look over this. Not through it. Clean air to top of helmet.

It's not a common issue with the Tracer. There is a thread with more info, there have been occasions where it helped but honestly you have no real symptoms.

Do you notice a pulse? Do you believe the mechanic? Pulsing is not always caused by warped rotor. if someone does hard braking and comes to a complete stop - it can deposit some pad material on the disc that feels like a pulsing (especially if that was done on new brakes that were not bed in properly). Possible floating rotor bobbin issue? EDIT - I missed where you said this: "I personally do not feel any pulsating in the brakes and it slows down evenly to me while feathering the brake." You know your bike better than a stranger. I am calling BS on the need for repair.

Are you ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN you are not bottoming out your suspension - when you experience "too harsh and hard"? Put a zip-tie on the front fork, see if it is pushed to max travel when you have experienced "too harsh and hard" Sometimes the rear shock bottoms and you sense it in the front due to jarring and pogo. Look for dust on the shaft of your shock, it likely is cleaned all the way through the stroke. You can dust something like confection sugar or talcum powder on that rear shock shaft and go for a ride on a bumpy road. See if it is bottoming out. Of course we want our suspension to enjoy all of it's travel, but by the time it hits the end the hydraulics should have softened the movement so it isn't jarring. If you aren't hitting the end of stroke on suspension then the suspension guy set it up for very high speed track valving and the hydraulics are making it ride like a brick on the street. Do a search on this forum for "sag". That is the purpose of correct springs and the preload adjustment. As others have said, correct springs (sag) is number one. From there you can make adjustments. I put a very affordable YSS shock on one of my vintage bikes and it totally transformed it. You don't have to throw money at it - and a great musician can make a cheapo guitar sound amazing.

Not trying to start a pissing contest - but with all due respect why are the oil drain plug torque specs on my Chevy truck and Chrysler vans 18 - 20 ft lbs? I use that range for all drain plugs, all my vehicles. A bolt is a bolt, and after the first oil change they are no longer a dry torque setting. Yeah that is half the battle, trusting the reading. If you spend a fortune on Snap On you get that "trust" feeling you don't get from Harbor Freight or similar cheap torque wrench. I have owned the cheap ones, and didn't trust them. For larger fasteners such as axle bolts and lug nuts, I got a TEKTON 1/2 Inch Drive (10-150 ft.-lb.) | model 24335. At first I just had one large torque wrench. Then I started to feel like i was using a sledge hammer to drive in nails. A torque wrench works best in the middle of it's range for accuracy. For the torque range of an oil drain plug, I got a CDI 7502MRMH Torque 3/8-Inch Drive (100-750 inch lb). Snap On owns CDI, so I get the warm fuzzy feeling there is some quality control. It didn't cost a fortune yet exudes quality. For smaller fasteners I use GEARWRENCH 3/8" Drive Micrometer Torque Wrench 30-250 in/lbs. model 85061 because it was $60 less than the CDI in that range and I rarely use it. I got a smaller range torque wrench because I have "gone too far" many times when just torqueing an important fastener by feel. For the cost of those 3 well reviewed torque wrenches I could have purchased one "premium" wrench, but after using these for the last several years I think I made the right choice.

These Daytona are the ultimate solution. https://www.daytona.de/en/Quality/Worth-every-cent/Higher-Stand A cost effective "test" would be cowboy boots or logger boots. Daytona offers up to 6 cm height increase, which I achieved with logger boots and 1" insert (height increasing insert).

When I am on a tall motorcycle I wear Chippewa Logger boots with about 2" heel. Got a mint pair on Ebay in my size, they were a bit loose, put in some height increasing insoles from Amazon. Gives you a lot more confidence. I got the Chippewa Logger Style 73015 (they are all pretty similar). They have tall heels and a tall front sole with a lot of deep texture. They are recessed where the footpeg sits in front of the heel. the "Lace up" logger boots are a bit of hassle to lace up every time, another option is Milwaukee Mens Trooper Motorcycle Boots. They "Lace Up" but then have a Side Zipper for easy on-off once you get the laces set where you want them.

If they 100% believe that - it is hard to fathom that they warrantied the repair. If Yamaha had "0" fault, it wouldn't be a warranty claim. But, it may be one of those rare good faith decisions based on your long relationship with dealer.

Right, it should look just like it did before attempt install. The rear plate and it's pins remains unchanged - everything happens on the "rivet" side. The pins on the rear plate should be held in place by the back side of the tool, this is the MotionPro Jumbo tool as an example. You have to put the right "plate" in, otherwise the pins get pushed out. This is an older video, but it helped me when I was learning.

Master links are cheap, gaining the experience is priceless. Good on you for noticing the issue - some professional shops may have just called it good. Personally I think that given the forces involved, the side plates will eventually loosen up. Then you will have a very sloppy fitting link. It may be OK until a new link arrives in your mailbox. Also see my post above. "there are a lot of different chain tools and they all work, but they can be very different from each other. You need to be absolutely certain that the tool's back plate is positioned so that it "captures" the back side of the pin you are flaring. Those tools are also used to "break" a chain by pushing out the pin, and if you aren't watching you could push the pin out of place that you are trying to flare."

Was your Tracer suspension completely stock?