Lone Wolf

Only the GT has cruise control. Not talking about modify factory cruise control on a GT. the OP just bought a tracer with no factory cruise control.

Yeah but the factory cruise control only starts to work at 4th gear. Do a search for McCruise on this forum. Their add-on cruise control works in lower gears which is helpful. https://www.mccruise.com/en-us/products/yamaha-mt-09-tracer-fj-09-new-throttle-by-wire-mccruise

The following thread has info on Tutoro and Scottoiler

Better than a barn door.

Just put a lip on the stock wind screen and see if that is enough. It will pull the air "up and over" more than it's height would indicate. You can get a good quality one from MRA, Givi, Puig, or a cheap $30 knock-off like I did and be prepared to alter the brackets etc. to make it work In addition to pulling the air higher, a lip will greatly reduce turbulent air. I am only 5' 8" and look over this. Not through it. Clean air to top of helmet.

It's not a common issue with the Tracer. There is a thread with more info, there have been occasions where it helped but honestly you have no real symptoms.

Do you notice a pulse? Do you believe the mechanic? Pulsing is not always caused by warped rotor. if someone does hard braking and comes to a complete stop - it can deposit some pad material on the disc that feels like a pulsing (especially if that was done on new brakes that were not bed in properly). Possible floating rotor bobbin issue? EDIT - I missed where you said this: "I personally do not feel any pulsating in the brakes and it slows down evenly to me while feathering the brake." You know your bike better than a stranger. I am calling BS on the need for repair.

Are you ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN you are not bottoming out your suspension - when you experience "too harsh and hard"? Put a zip-tie on the front fork, see if it is pushed to max travel when you have experienced "too harsh and hard" Sometimes the rear shock bottoms and you sense it in the front due to jarring and pogo. Look for dust on the shaft of your shock, it likely is cleaned all the way through the stroke. You can dust something like confection sugar or talcum powder on that rear shock shaft and go for a ride on a bumpy road. See if it is bottoming out. Of course we want our suspension to enjoy all of it's travel, but by the time it hits the end the hydraulics should have softened the movement so it isn't jarring. If you aren't hitting the end of stroke on suspension then the suspension guy set it up for very high speed track valving and the hydraulics are making it ride like a brick on the street. Do a search on this forum for "sag". That is the purpose of correct springs and the preload adjustment. As others have said, correct springs (sag) is number one. From there you can make adjustments. I put a very affordable YSS shock on one of my vintage bikes and it totally transformed it. You don't have to throw money at it - and a great musician can make a cheapo guitar sound amazing.

Not trying to start a pissing contest - but with all due respect why are the oil drain plug torque specs on my Chevy truck and Chrysler vans 18 - 20 ft lbs? I use that range for all drain plugs, all my vehicles. A bolt is a bolt, and after the first oil change they are no longer a dry torque setting. Yeah that is half the battle, trusting the reading. If you spend a fortune on Snap On you get that "trust" feeling you don't get from Harbor Freight or similar cheap torque wrench. I have owned the cheap ones, and didn't trust them. For larger fasteners such as axle bolts and lug nuts, I got a TEKTON 1/2 Inch Drive (10-150 ft.-lb.) | model 24335. At first I just had one large torque wrench. Then I started to feel like i was using a sledge hammer to drive in nails. A torque wrench works best in the middle of it's range for accuracy. For the torque range of an oil drain plug, I got a CDI 7502MRMH Torque 3/8-Inch Drive (100-750 inch lb). Snap On owns CDI, so I get the warm fuzzy feeling there is some quality control. It didn't cost a fortune yet exudes quality. For smaller fasteners I use GEARWRENCH 3/8" Drive Micrometer Torque Wrench 30-250 in/lbs. model 85061 because it was $60 less than the CDI in that range and I rarely use it. I got a smaller range torque wrench because I have "gone too far" many times when just torqueing an important fastener by feel. For the cost of those 3 well reviewed torque wrenches I could have purchased one "premium" wrench, but after using these for the last several years I think I made the right choice.

These Daytona are the ultimate solution. https://www.daytona.de/en/Quality/Worth-every-cent/Higher-Stand A cost effective "test" would be cowboy boots or logger boots. Daytona offers up to 6 cm height increase, which I achieved with logger boots and 1" insert (height increasing insert).

When I am on a tall motorcycle I wear Chippewa Logger boots with about 2" heel. Got a mint pair on Ebay in my size, they were a bit loose, put in some height increasing insoles from Amazon. Gives you a lot more confidence. I got the Chippewa Logger Style 73015 (they are all pretty similar). They have tall heels and a tall front sole with a lot of deep texture. They are recessed where the footpeg sits in front of the heel. the "Lace up" logger boots are a bit of hassle to lace up every time, another option is Milwaukee Mens Trooper Motorcycle Boots. They "Lace Up" but then have a Side Zipper for easy on-off once you get the laces set where you want them.

If they 100% believe that - it is hard to fathom that they warrantied the repair. If Yamaha had "0" fault, it wouldn't be a warranty claim. But, it may be one of those rare good faith decisions based on your long relationship with dealer.

Right, it should look just like it did before attempt install. The rear plate and it's pins remains unchanged - everything happens on the "rivet" side. The pins on the rear plate should be held in place by the back side of the tool, this is the MotionPro Jumbo tool as an example. You have to put the right "plate" in, otherwise the pins get pushed out. This is an older video, but it helped me when I was learning.

Master links are cheap, gaining the experience is priceless. Good on you for noticing the issue - some professional shops may have just called it good. Personally I think that given the forces involved, the side plates will eventually loosen up. Then you will have a very sloppy fitting link. It may be OK until a new link arrives in your mailbox. Also see my post above. "there are a lot of different chain tools and they all work, but they can be very different from each other. You need to be absolutely certain that the tool's back plate is positioned so that it "captures" the back side of the pin you are flaring. Those tools are also used to "break" a chain by pushing out the pin, and if you aren't watching you could push the pin out of place that you are trying to flare."

Was your Tracer suspension completely stock?

Search "Oiler"

It is not realistic to expect thousands of consumers of a modern vehicle to have to use additives. I suspect something else going on - don't pretend to know what that may be. But an efficient engine with proper spark and fueling should not break itself. Some triple owners have gone 200,000, and 300,000 miles (@olddawg still on the original clutch per pg 6 of high mile thread - so he isn't wringing it's neck constantly).

May want to send a sample to Blackstone along with the oil filter. That's the only way to know for sure what it is. If you don't want to bother with it, could at least open up the filter and see what was in there. Interesting article to suggest that https://www.blackstone-labs.com/oil-filter-testing/ Filter analysis is something you can (and should!) do yourself, to get a baseline idea of what’s normal. All engines produce metal; the trick is to know what’s normal and what’s not. The debris we find in filters tends to fall into three categories: metallic, carbon pieces, and unknown. Some metal and carbon is okay.

Sometimes a burnt valve will lose a "chunk" resulting in sudden loss of compression. But it is odd that it ran OK when parked, then later it wouldn't start.

The first thing a failing water pump will manifest on any vehicle is slight leaking or bearing noise. And that is usually at high mileage. Neither of those manifestations affect temperature.

That is true - and at first it bothered me. Then I witnessed in real life what the literature says, the intent is to fling off grit and road grime. I agree it is sort of a trade off - compromise, but the auto oilers are adjustable. You are taking care of your chain - the auto oilers really shine compared to neglect.

From the Scottoiler site: The problem with traditional chain spray is that it’s sticky and tacky. It has to be – so that it stays on your chain for as long as possible. However, due to its tackiness, your chain will pick up dirt and grit from the road. Over time this then turns into the black grinding paste that every motorcyclist hates. This grinding paste is what wears away your O-Rings and ultimately makes your chain fail prematurely – costing you hundreds in chain replacements and repairs. With a Scottoiler chain oiler system, you are always feeding just enough oil to your chain – in very small doses. This allows us to use a lubricant that has almost no tack additives and dirt and grit will not stick to your chain. A cleaner chain means your chain does not develop the black grinding paste. Your chain will last up to 7 times longer, plus you don’t need to manually clean and lubricate it every 300 miles. -------------------------- I have a Scottoiler on one of my bikes (other systems are similar). Adjust the "drip" to about one drop every 2 minutes. Chain rarely needs cleaning because the oil flings off, taking grit with it. I have to clean the rim now and then but no oil gets on the tread region of tire. O-rings remain moist with light film of oil, rather than getting dry and cracking due to neglect.

Just to be clear, I was commenting on the video Heli ATP linked to on the previous page that was not this same "broken tooth" transmission - but was an excellent example. That video is by Motorcycle MD, who has a day job working as a professional Honda mechanic in the north east, does side repairs and has a good YouTube channel. In that example video he explains how that shift drum broke out a chunk of metal. We don't "know" if that happened on the Yamaha transmission mentioned by the OP. But it certainly has the appearance of a stray chunk of metal landing between the teeth. Ouch. I will paste that video here:

This particular damage appears like a chunk of metal landed between gears, then grenaded the tooth. The video posted earlier on this thread shows a chunk of metal broken out of a shift drum, and he shows a chunk of metal that was floating around in the transmission (that could land between gears). He also notes that the bearings were full of metal fragments. He comments that the shift drum failed due to improper shifting, which the customer (for that video) openly admitted that he was jamming gears and abusing it.

That is a very common misconception. There is some truth that lined cables may not NEED to be lubed, but over the years that has evolved to the idea that lube will HARM the liner - and that just isn't true. Teflon (PTFE) is very resistant to oils, solvents, and acid. This site has a huge list of compatibility, this is just the start of alphabet Honda has used Teflon lined cables for decades. They say to LUBE THEM if they NEED IT. In other words if there is a symptom you can apply a remedy. You are not going to hurt the Teflon. This is from the factory manual for Honda 750, years 1991-2003 I have seen this discussed on Gold Wing forums, and vintage motorcycle forums. The consensus is to lube a lined cable if it is sticking. I lube mine when I have stuff apart just as preventive maintenance but again it is not "needed" if there is not a problem. Good cables are lined with PTFE, but what about a cheap cable lined with some other plastic? I would still say it is resistant to common oils used for lubrication. Cheap plastic won't withstand high temperatures of cooking - but should function for even a cheap aftermarket throttle cable that gets oiled.