nhchris

Clutch noise had finally gotten to me on my 2016 FJ with 22k miles on the clock. Gonna have dealer replace the orig basket with a new one. QUESTION: is there a replacement basket that fits that is better than the orig equipment FJ part? For example, is an MT09 basket a better option? I do not want/need a slipper or anything fancy. I just want a QUIET things down. Thanks!!

You need at $200 error code reader to shut off the service reminder prompt that appears every time you start the bike if the odo rolls past a maintenance point. BMW owners who change their own oil usually chip in and share the cost just to kill that message! Crazy no?

On this topic: 1. Do not over torque rear axel nut. 80-90 Ft Lbs is more than adequate. 2. I run about 1.5 inches (38 mm) of slack. 3. Use an alignment tool to ensure correct wheel alignment.

No. I use these to lengthen the mirror stalks. https://www.adventuretech.biz/yamaha-mirror-extenders.html

Just looked it up and its 550 lbs wet. Not as heavy as I would have guessed but 25% more than my lil FJ.

I did not see mirror extensions on your list. I find mine very useful on long rides, especially on multi lane roads. I also find a mechanical throttle lock really helps with right hand fatigue and cramping when blasting highways.

It’s fun to change up your ride every few years. And you can’t go wrong with a Bmr! Just remember it’s HEAVY!

Yup. I rode the FJ yesterday and love the smoothness I feel after the TB sync and plug replacement. It starts instantly, purrs like a kitten and pulls like a race horse. Big difference in feel and rideability post service.

Gold good!

Does that stuff really work? How? would dropping a lead fishing weight in the tank have the same effect?

A new front is cheap money. Replace it! And enjoy that nice fresh damping rubber.

Interesting you say that. I test rode several used XRs and found them underwhelming. They cost a fortune even used and performed no better than my FJ. I was actually quite surprised at their mediocre nature. And then there’s the dealer thing. I guess it’s a designer label appeal?

And don’t even think about running a car tire on the rear!! ;)

Got bike back from Moms and to my surprise they said no valves were out of spec. I was really shocked. But the dealer passed up $400 in service revenue by not reshimming. His claim was if they don’t need it we don’t do it. The tech gave me a write up of each valve and its clearance. They also gave me the old plugs and air filter which were pretty beat. The bike is running noticeably smoother after plug change and TB sync. So I am prettier happy with Moms service and will use them again when the time comes.

And your choice of oil brand and weight might cause subtle changes to the racket down below.

Strangest bag mount setup I’ve seen is on Triumphs. There the bags are allowed to swing left and right across the bike to facilitate cornering. I don’t think I’d like a mobile center of gravity when pushing hard in the twistiest however.

Interesting. I looked at the bag mounts on a Tracer 9 GT last week and the lower mount points seemed pretty loose and fragile, especially compared to the monster lower mounts on my FJ.

Ear plugs are the first Tracer farkle you need to install (in your ears).

From the power grid!

I run a 17 on my FJ 09 and like the difference, especially at highway speeds. Mileage is about the same (50) but I can cruise at about 500 rpm less in 6th gear. I think I run about 4500 rpm at 70mph Only issue is no supplier makes a damped (rubber isolated) 17. So there is a bit more noise when the engine is freewheeling (not accelerating or decelerating). It is a very easy swap and on the FJ can be done with a stock length chain. A 17 at Sprocket Center is about $20.

I asked about that. The dealer I used sells lots of MT 09s, Tracers 900s, and has three 9 GTs on the floor now. So they service the CP3 motor frequently. He said it is not all that unusual for the CP3 to be in spec at first adjustment. News to me!! I do think this forum, like most, is a bit of an echo chamber where individual experiences, pet theories and occasional outright horse hockey gets amplified in dogma. Don't get me wrong, I love this site. I just don't believe everything I read here is fact!

Yep, completely stock. I will also add that I do not abuse the motor. While I ride fast I never get into the rev limiter and I have a 17 tooth sprocket to drop the highway revs at touring speeds. I also believe in systems engineering and think the factory-designed engine is really an ecosystem of intake, combustion and exhaust. Make changes to one and it will affect the other two, and not always predictable ways, especially over the long term. Removing the CAT, cutting up intake parts, blocking off stuff and even ECU reprogramming falls into that category for me. (No flames please:!) here’s my latest question: does extending the TB sync points with capped off hoses disrupt the fluid flow dynamics of the intake system? You create a plenum in each capped hose, right? Plenums are used car air intake system to shape air flow dynamics. As a previous poster said, many of us love to wrench and tinker. More power to you folks who pull the cams so you can shim an in spec valve to the widest end of its range. As Bob Dillon sang so long ago: “It ain’t me babe.”

Now here's something you don't often hear on this site.... At my first valve inspection at 21k miles ALL my valves were within spec on my 2016 FJ09. The inspection was done by a Yami dealer. I stressed to him I was happy to pay for the re-shiming and wanted it done if needed. I picked up the bike today and was told no valves were out of spec and no adjustment was required. Here are the numbers the tech noted: RANGE .260mm - .300mm 110mm - .200mm CYL 1. EX - .279mm .270mm INT -- .152mm. .178mm CYL 2 EX - .279mm. .279mm INT -- .152mm .127mm CYL 3 EX - .30mm .279mm. INT -- .152mm. .152mm Needless to say, I was shocked. 99% of what is reported here about valves indicates exhaust valves will be really tight at the first inspection. I don't doubt your findings, but I guess I'm a one per-center! For those that think the dealer might have been lazy and just made up the numbers, I wondered about that also. Then I realized he lost $400 in pure labor by not re-shimming. (Estimate was $850 and bill ended up being $450. ) The old air filter was filthy and should have been changed 10k mikes ago. The old plugs were well worn and probably the originals. Should have been replaced at 15k. On one hour ride home the bike ran very strong thanks to new plugs and TB sync. Life is strange!

Chain Wax works for me with very little fling. And it cleans up easily with a WD 40 scrub. Only thing on the rim is brake dust.

Interesting. The stock black spring looks heavier duty than the Ohlins spring,