jonno12345

Thanks, it's seems to sound different to what I remember now, like a creak at the bottom of the travel. I'm also wondering if I have the wrong spring rate, the supplied springs had 7.8 printed on them I believe and they seem quite soft (I'm around 78kg). I cant work out if I'm running them on max or minimum preload either, I'm guessing clockwise on the gold hex nuts it's to increase? If so, I think they are maxed..!

Finally got around to fitting my Andreani fork cartridges over the weekend. All went fine (except being unable to remove one retaining bolt from the bottom of the fork but a local garage with an air gun sorted that!). I have yet to ride it, but just tested them by sitting on the bike, full front brake on and pushing down on the front. I'm now getting a lot more swishing/wooshing than I ever did with the stock cartridges, but I don't mind that so much. What I'm a bit more concerned about is that, at the bottom of their travel, I seem to be getting a bit of a knock sound, almost like something hitting plastic? I'm fairly confident its within one of the forks, although I can't isolate which one. I'm using a 2.5w oil in the compression leg and 5w in the rebound, incase that could be related. I also made a 125mm airgap from the top, but I think I may have made a mistake and did it from the top of the silver 'inner' tube, instead of the top of the golden tube, which maybe added another 10+mm or so. Could it be a lack of (or too thin) oil? Or have I put something together wrong? Or is this normal, although I'm not sure it should be? Thanks!

Would suspect the switch before the ECU, a short whilst you're off the throttle could cause it to change mode. Have you had it remapped?

Had a FJR1300. Can't remember feeling it was that bad really. You're right, I need to try another to tell, but I haven't really seen many of these bikes around. If I try a later one it will have the assist and slipper clutch so probably not a great test either. I suspect it isn't really a major fault with mine, as said, it runs fine it's just not smooth. I'll double check the clutch cable that way, I'm using the latest revision but will have a go, thanks.

Just took a look, seems to be outside of the range of my VIN. Shame it's not that easy !

That's the fear..! I hoped a few people would come back and say 'they are all like that, don't worry' but that's not been quite so forthcoming. Maybe I'll take it to a shop where they have more experience in it and see what they think. It shifts successfully, it's just my concern that somethings damaged (or being damaged) and might shorten the life of something serious.

Annoyingly there was a deal on the oil when I bought it so I bought enough for the next service too... That said, I might just try a different one to see if it helps. It's 10w40.

Checked this one today, the dot is exactly on the arrow, so not that one I don't think. I'll double check the lever free play, but it feels like the clutch engages and disengages correctly.

I'll give it a go, but I'm confident I'm using the lever to max travel. I've tried doing shifts quicker, slower, completely removing my foot from the peg each time, pivoting my foot, pulling it up and stamping down... It's just like it catches something in between the gears.

Is that free play on the centre stand or whilst on the bike? I've definitely gone looser than the manual says, that sounds insanely tight at 0.2" to 0.6". I guess it's not a serious problem, if it's normal, I just want to be sure mine isn't a sign of an issue. Sometimes I get two clicks in a single gear change (especially between 2-3), almost like it clicks through a 'neutral' there. It always goes in, never jumps out, just doesn't feel very positive at times.

Unfortunately I don't know of anyone else with a mt-09 tracer to establish if this is just my bike, or something everyone has, but I am finding my gear changes a bit notchy at times. I can't quite work out whether it's much different when warmed up, but I'm veering towards slightly worse. Most notably between 2-3, 3-4 and 4-5, both up and down shifts can be an issue. It's almost like halfway between the gear shift, it catches on something. It doesn't grind or anything, but it doesn't smoothly engage, and so many people talk about how smooth they find their shifts. 2015 Tracer 900 (UK, same as the FJ-09). I've tried tightening the chain as much as I'm comfortable with. Using Motul 5000 semi-synthetic oil, the revised clutch cable (fitted myself and I don't think there's much I could have got wrong with this..?). Doesn't seem to matter how quick or pronounced I make my shifts, how long I hold the clutch in, whether I try and give the engine some revs before shifting or not. And it's not every shift, but probably about 10-20% of them. Any ideas? Some adjustment I've missed? A dodgy box? Or just something they do that I can't find anybody talking about?

I get that feeling simply from going from B to A mode... When I first read about the differences I thought 'Meh, how different can it really be'... Yeah it's pretty rapid in A..! That said, I don't know if the fuel would make that notable a difference or not, in the UK we get a minimum 95 on our 'standard' petrol, and the 'premium' is 97/98. I've never tried premium in it though...

Do the pre-2017 bikes still have this port? I know you have a diag menu on the dash, but is it OBD2 compatible too?

If you have a bike before 2017 it might be worth checking this if you haven't already, if nothing else just to see the outputs on the diag screen: https://fj-09.org/thread/5045/accelerator-position-sensor-aps-adjustment

The FJ/FZ/XSR/MT/Tracer etc. do indeed have throttle cables, they attach to a sensor which opens the throttle bodies. If if you are sure there are no air leaks, I would look for something sticking or binding, turn the bars side to side, check that the throttle tube opens and closes fully without sticking. Make sure isn’t dragging on the bar end. My throttle wasnt sticking but felt sluggish, I removed the throttle tube off the bar and found grey gunk all over the bar. I cleaned the bar and throttle tube and the throttle twists much easier now. Why does it do that anyway..? I was expecting to find all the electronics in the grip, but no, cables practically down to the engine... Just so they don't have to make new parts or something?