jetpilot5

SOLD! Alpinestars T-Stunt Air Vented Textile Jacket, size XL. Worn very little, no damage, in excellent condition. Cleaned after the last wearing. Includes wind proof breathable liner. Foam back pad replaced with Vanson back pad but stock back pad and chest pads included. Shoulder and elbow armor in place. Located in Normal, IL if you'd like to check it out in person or pick it up. $100 shipped in the lower 48. PayPal OK. Please post or message me with questions or if you would like to buy. Here is the description from Motorcyclegear.com. 600 D polyester fabric with PU coating Polyester mesh inserts Embroidered logos on chest and back Removable CE certified Bio Armor protectors Ergonomically placed stretch panels for optimal flexibility Connection zipper allows attachment to selected Alpinestars leather and textile pants Adaptable fit via adjustable Velcro® panels and accordion stretch zones YKK zippers Chest pad compartment with PE padding (Alpinestars Bionic Chest Guards available as accessory upgrade) Back protector compartment with PE padding (CE certified RC Back Protector available as accessory) Removable windproof and breathable liner jacket https://www.motorcyclegear.com/stre...lpinestars/t_stunt_air_motorcycle_jacket.html

SOLD Only worn a few times, like new condition. Size 3X but they run small, more like a 2X glove which is why they are for sale. Just too tight on me. If you fit an Alpinestars 2X these should fit you. Very nicely made and solid. No venting at all so a good choice for spring and fall. Located in Normal, IL if you'd like to check them out in person. $60 $50 shipped in the lower 48. PayPal OK. Post or message me with questions or if you would like to purchase. https://www.pilotmotosport.com/evo-gloves/ Constructed of calfskin leather for superior strength and feel Carbon fiber knuckle molds on top of hand, fingers and palm Leather stretch panels on top of hand, fingers and thumb Digital Touch conductive material on forefinger and thumb for touchscreen use Padded leather overlay in palm with carbon fiber inserts wraps to last finger for added strength Cuff padding used on palm side of gloves Glove lined with Aramid protective material on top of hand and thumb Secures to hand with Velcro wrist strap and wrist flap Leather overlay on thumb and forefinger Memory foam padding on top of thumb

I ran Pazzo Racing levers. Very nice.

Don't know where the seat in the video came from but the seats from the GT and the standard Niken are interchangeable. When I had my Niken I went the other direction and added a GT seat to the standard bike as I was wanting more legroom. I also got the GT passenger seat and discovered any combination of Yamaha Niken seats will work between the standard and GT. An OEM front seat from the standard bike is lower and only $150, possibly cheaper than having your GT seat modified.

Pazzo levers. Work great, last a long time.

I’ll throw up some pictures when I get my tools back from the dealer.

Thanks! I'll do some reading there too. BTW my has 4,500 miles on it and has never been down in any way shape or form including a stationary drop.

If someone wants to throw that picture up on the Facebook group you’ve got my blessing. I’m not on Facebook so can’t post but I know it’s a larger group than we have here.

Thank you for checking.

Located directly behind the plastic trim piece at the top of the forks. If you put your finger in above the plastic part it’ll land right on the outside of part getting hit.

Cleaning the bike the other day and discovered that what appears to be the steering stop is making contact with another part of the suspension structure. Easy to see in this picture. Bike is at the dealer. They called me today after contacting Yamaha and sending them pictures. Yamaha told them this is common and that the Nikens they had also showed this contact. I have my doubts. It's not just the paint worn off. There's literally a gouge in the top bracket and you can feel a burr on the top of the pin from the force of the contact. The left side also shows contact but not as bad. The dealer can duplicate the contact by turning to full lock and tilting the bike. They said Yamaha was going to do a little more research and get back to them. Dealer agrees that something isn't right. They haven't disassembled the bike yet. If you have a minute could you take a look at your bike and let me know if it looks like this? Thanks!

Well, now I'll have to take another run at this. Next time I'll hold off on the shift into 6th until closer to redline in 5th. If it helps anyone changing tires I did snap a picture of the rear with the mudguard removed. The trickiest part is the ABS sensor can't be accessed until the guard is loose from the four bolts that hold it on. Then the entire assembly can be rotated around the rear wheel and set aside.

Nicely done!

120 mph indicated wide open in 6th is all mine will do. Wouldn’t pull redline in top gear. I might be able to do a little better staying in 5th. That front end is pushing a lot of air at high speed. Fastest I’ve ever done was 160 indicated on my K1300s. It was still accelerating hard at that speed in top gear with about 2,000rpm to go to redline. That thing was amazing.

That's what I've been using for the last few thousand miles. Seems OK to me. Not sticky once dry so it doesn't attract dirt and doesn't fling too bad if you wipe off excess when you're done. I plan to keep using it.

I pulled my own wheels and took them and the tires to a local guy that mounts and balances for $25 a wheel if you bring them in off the bike. If you have a way to lift the front end it's no problem at all removing the front wheels. In my case I put it up on the center stand then put on the Yamaha front stand and raised the front till the tires just cleared the floor. Loosen all five front wheel nuts and the wheel axle nuts before lifting. Once raised, completely remove the five wheel nuts, tip the wheel slightly and it will come off the hub and out from under the fender without having to remove anything else. After removing both wheels put an old piece of carpet or rug on the floor under the brake discs. Remove the axle nut and push the axle out backwards. The front hub and brake disc will then pull straight down out of the caliper. When you do this the front will be unbalanced and the heavier side with the hub still attached will fall to the floor landing gently on the carpet that you put there just for that purpose. Do the same to the other side and the front will be balance again. I always put a shim in between the front brake pads to keep me from accidentally squeezing the front brake lever and pushing the pistons out of the calipers while the wheels are off. If you have some way to balance the wheels without the hubs being attached you don't need to remove them. The shop manual calls for the hubs to be attached to the wheel for balancing though and that also allows a normal wheel balancer to work on these front wheels. With the hubs removed I just bolted them back onto the wheels with the five wheel nuts snugged down and had the tires changed in that configuration. My tire guy had no problem with the wheels. As they say, assembly is the reverse of removal. Use care when you put the hubs back on the axle that you don't damage the ABS sensor. It doesn't need to be removed but's it's close. The rear wheel was actually a little bigger challenge. Four bolts gets the mudguard off but the ABS sensor has to go with it and access to the bolt holding it isn't great until you get the mudguard loose. Then I just rotated the entire assembly to the right and set it on a milk crate with a towel over it. Then it's just like any other chain drive bike you've ever worked on.

I'm getting low 40s just riding around. Usually go on reserve around 160 miles and gas up at about 180 miles give or take a few. The farthest I've ever gotten on one tank was 198.8 miles and then filled it with 4.758 gallons. Considering it only holds 4.8 gallons that's pretty close to totally empty.

Ran the A41s a little too long. Noticed a little cord when I was 120 miles from home. Nursed it back to the house no problem and have now changed to the Pilot Road 4s I had waiting. This is the stock rear at 3,913 miles, traction control on level 1 the whole time, no burnouts but what I would consider mildly aggressive riding. The fronts were better, probably 70% gone. My tire guy told me that Bridgestone Tires sold aftermarket are generally higher quality than the OEM tire but I can't see me spending money on another set of A41s after being totally gone at this low mileage. Long weekend coming up with forecast good weather so looking forward to giving the Michelins a good ride.

Just remember if you want to switch over to any screens that fit the standard Niken you'll need to change out the windshield stay. Not difficult or expensive but required for the non-GT screens to fit. I'm happy with the way the Givi screen works for me. Ermax makes a nice looking low screen too.

I'll be interested to hear how you like them. My Pilot Road 4s still haven't been mounted. Between work and garbage weather I haven't been riding much lately.

I used these guys on a BMW front wheel that looked exactly like yours. Perfect job, you couldn't tell it had ever had any damage. I' don't know how they straighten wheels without damaging the paint but it must be possible. Their website sucks and it was over a decade ago but might be worth a call. Motorcycle Wheel Repair, Before and After Pictures + Video

I’m solidly into the wear bars on the stock A41s at 3,100 miles but haven’t mounted the Pilot Road 4s I have sitting here yet. Sometime in the next few weeks. I’ll report impressions after I get some miles on them. I also ordered a set of 90 degree valve stems. Planning on just changing the rear as the fronts are pretty easy to get to from the inside. I went with Moto D brand. They should be here in a day or two.

Sorry, I never answered your question. Here's what I got with the bike as spelled out in an email from a dealer I was working with at the time of purchase. I have only used the jack stand so far. Yamaha sent us 3 tools on the essential tool program. This is what they send out to dealers when new models come out and special tools are needed to service them. Here is what we received, Jack Stand #90890-01596 $233.99 Wheel alignment toe gauge #90890-01595 $540.99 Steering nut wrench # 90890-01598 $106.99

Don't have a real good reason for posting, just rarely get a good picture of me on the bike. Rolled over 3,000 miles this past weekend and still love it.

How can this be? I’ve purchased three full sets of levers, two for different BMWs and the set I’m running on my Niken and have never gotten so much as an extra sticker, not to mention anything else. Apparently I don’t have your celebrity status. 😎😉😄 They are very nice levers.