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About justintime

  • Birthday 01/12/1950
  1. Well, I got tired of digging around looking for funky connections. Took the bike to the local dealer and they found the offending shorted connection. Also, they cleaned up some of the other wiring associated with the accessories which were added by the PO. Been riding for a couple of weeks and everything seems fine. I gave it a good try. I can at least feel good about finding and correcting the previous electrical problem where the replacement Yamaha LED turn signals wouldn't work. That was a short between the hot lead and ground lead for one of the rear signals. The short was not only blowing the fuse, it also fried the signal lamp and flasher. I discoverd that short after unwrapping a ton of electrical tape and examining connections carefully. Had to source the replacement LED signal from Canada, as they are not avalable in the US. Guess I'm batting .500 on electrical troubleshooting.
  2. I reached the same obvious conclusion and did as you mentioned - removed each of the components on the 7.5A circuit and the fuse still blows. So, there must be something else on that circuit that I'm not seeing. Will continue to search this out.
  3. Skip: The previous owner replaced the turn signals with OEM Yamaha LED turn signals, added LED driving lights mounted to the lower fork legs, ECU re-flash by VcycleNUT, replaced OEM horn with louder FIAMM horn, and added OEM Yamaha heated grips. Given the low miles on the bike (approx. 4,000), I have to beleive the electrical problem is most likely associated with the add-ons and not the original electrical system. As mentioned in my original post, power to the turn signals, horn, rear light assembly, and driving lights was disconnected. Fuse still blows when the ignition is switched on. The heated grips are not on the circuit controlled by the 7.5A signalling system fuse. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  4. On my '15 FJ-09 all components powered through the 7.5A signalling system fuse stopped working. This includes headlight eyebrow running light (main headlight is ok), horn, front running lights, rear running light, brake light, and license plate light. The fuse blows instanty when the ignition is switched on. I've disconnected each of the above items and the fuse still blows, so neither of these would seem to be the culprit. I've looked at the wiring diagram and done what I could to follow the circuitry. Not being a pro, I'm sure I missed something. The turn signals work as they are supplied voltage via the 10A running light fuse. Just wondering if anyone else has a thought on this problem.
  5. A couple of weeks ago I bought a pristine ’15 FJ-09 from the original owner. The bike had 3,200 miles on the clock. By all visible clues the owner was a fastidious sort who was very careful in the way that he added the many accessories on the bike, including OEM Yamaha LED turn signals all around. The transaction went smoothly and I headed home on my “new” bike. Somewhere along the New Jersey Turnpike on my 200+ mile ride home I noticed that the turn signals were no longer flashing. Once home, I put my meager skills to work to identify the cause of the problem. I had plenty of time to do this as all the shops in my area had a two to three week wait before they could look at the bike. As mentioned, these turn signals are factory Yamaha LED units. They are, however, not available in the US. Their part no., YME-W0789-00-00, is not even in the Yamaha USA parts fiche. The original owner sourced them from Yamabits.com in the UK. Here’s what I discovered and what I did about it: Switch on the ignition and the front running lights would light up as they should. Activate the right turn switch and the front running lights would go out, the right rear turn signal would light but not flash. Activate the left turn switch, the 10A parking light fuse would blow (it’s the only 10A fuse on the bike). I then focused my attention on the left rear turn signal and the turn signal flasher relay. The circuit into the two wire flasher relay tested ok for incoming voltage. The wire from the bike’s harness that supplies power to the left side rear turn signal tested ok for +12V. The left rear harness ground wire also tested ok. Obviously, +12V and ground to the right side was ok as that light was shining bright. I disconnected the left rear signal from the bike harness. I grounded the ground wire and applied +12V from a spare battery to the power input lead on the signal. Instantly, the attachment wires got VERY hot. Looks (and feels) like a dead short within the indicator. I sourced a new Yamaha LED turn signal from Kelly’s Cycle in Hamilton, Ontario. The part number is active in the Canadian Yamaha parts system. After replacing the turn signal, the fuse no longer blew when activating the left turn switch and the left rear turns signal would light steady – no flash. In fact, all the turn signals would light steady when appropriately switched. After a brief discussion with the folks at CutomLED.com who manufacture the special flasher relay needed to make the LED turn signals flash at the correct rate, I decided to replace their flasher with a new one. After replacing the flasher, all turn signals, running lights and four-way flashers operated as they should. Final conclusion: Either the left rear turn signal was defective or a short occurred in the hook-up which smoked the turn signal. The turn signal short caused the flasher to fry, as well. The fuse did blow, but probably not soon enough to protect the diodes in the turn signal.
  6. Thanks for the comment. This is one project I can do without!
  7. New to FJ-09 and this board. I'm chasing an electrical problem in my '15 FJ - Yamaha LED trun signals not working. If I'm unable to get this fixed myself, I'll need to get to an "expert". Have called two dealers so far and still need to find a resource that I feel I can trust. No need for a rant here, but the responses from the dealers I've spoken with leaves a lot to be desired. I've spent a substantial number of years working in large m/c dealerships and understand the challenges that dealers face just to stay in business and make a living. That being said, good customer service is the foundation on which the business needs to be built if the owners expect long term success. So, if anyone has a recommendation for a professional repair source in NYC or Nassau County I'd really appreciate it.
  8. Just brought home my pre-owned '15 FJ-09 (with 3,200 miles on it). I'm right on the Queens/Nassau County line, so both New York Ciy and Long Island are in my immediate riding zone. Haven't been able to put any new miles on the bike as the Yamaha LED turn signals that were installed by the previous owner stopped working about half way on my 220 mile ride home from the seller's house. Electrical troubleshooting is not an area of high competence for me, but I have been doing my best to find the problem. A new set of rear signals is on its way to me from a dealer in Hamilton, Ontario. Will report on my progress when things are squared away.
  9. Thanks for the comments. Actually, the word "flimsy" mentioned above seemed to light a bulb in my foggy brain. Once I wrapped my head around the idea of a "flimsy" seat, I simply went to work flexing the seat base until the seat tang and latch lined up. Bingo! Everything fit together. It took a fair amount of force to make that happen, but I think we're good to go. Hope the tolerances/dimensional accuracy on the rest of the bike are substantially better!
  10. Just acquired a pre-owned 2015 FJ-09. One issue that has me puzzled is trying to move the rider's seat to the high position. After moving the under-seat plastic piece (the h-shaped one with four projections) into the proper position, I fnd that the seat-mounted tongue will not line up with the movable latch. It appears that all other aspects of the seat are in proper alignment - the front bumpers sit directly on their landing points and the small plastic tab/projection on the right rear underside of the seat lines up perfectly with the "H" hole in the seat support casting. It looks like either the under seat mounted tongue needs to move forward or the entire latching mechanism needs to move rearward. Neither have an adjutment feature. Mis-alignment is 1/4" - 3/8". I've searched the forum and have not found any reference to this problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.