bugie

Was hoping to do this but was hoping to tap into the +ve wire of the headlight switch on the handlebars (as opposed to the main wiring harness going into the light control unit). would anyone happen to know what colour wire would be the right one

Looks like it's a rubber stop for the seat. Take the seat off and take a look as there is more than one

You can't really compare the GS to the Tracer GT as it isn't a sport tourer by a long shot. You need to be looking at the S1000XR which is also cheaper than a GS

@betoney - Generally fairly agressive street riding. I do touring but on a daily basis it's more about sporty riding. My current plan is to sort out the front and leave the rear to another day (just because my understanding (potentially mistaken) is that it isn't so problematic rather than due to finances)

3 hours ago, fr8dog said:

I did number 2. Night and day difference. I'm 225#, so it helped out a lot.

Yeah i'm at a similar weight to you too. Did you go for a 9.0 or 9.5nm spring? And did you just do the front, or, did you also do the back too? If so, what did you do to the back?

2 hours ago, betoney said:

Does option #2 have a custom (specific to YOU) shim stack or is it an 'off the shelf' generic configuration?  The reason I ask is, everyone uses their bike for different conditions, touring, commuting, sport, track etc. and the valving (and sometimes the spring stiffness) will be very different for each.  Usually with option #3, when buying direct from the company, they build them specifically and exactly for your riding conditions.

Option 2 would involve removing the stock fork internals and replacing the piston. I'll be pairing this with stiffer springs. The stock adjuster and cartridge can be used. Will need to check if the valving and shim stack can be altered so thanks for that.

So i'm planning on getting my front suspension upgraded with K-Tech components and am in a toss up between:

1. Springs only
2. Springs and piston kit whereby they just use the OEM fork cartridges and replace the OEM pistons
3. getting new fork cartridges and a spring

Would be keen on hearing people's first hand opinions based on their experiences with the above

If you switch to b mode at those speeds you'll find it a lot less lurchy. A mode really doesn't like cruising at that speed

2 hours ago, HGP61 said:

Love Malta by the way but have driven a few roads over there where I would be cornering at 1/4 trottle, keep your traction control on.

On some roads TC just lights up the dash like  a Christmas tree so you have no choice but to turn it off.

I don't think the quickshifter makes any difference during overtaking (other than letting you be a little lazy, however, you quickly start to love it when you are banked over coming onto full throttle as you exit a turn and are able to tap the gear lever and almost instantly change the gear.

19 hours ago, johnmark101 said:

I noticed this as well.  I can understand why first to second is not as smooth as it has to pass through neutral.  Maybe it has to do with the difference in the spread of the gear ratios.  I am guessing that the closer the ratios the smoother the shift as there is less of a change in rpm.   

Yeah i have the same opinion. To be honest even when shifting manually under hard acceleration the gears feel smoother the higher up you go 

also changing into 4th, 5th and 6th is noticably smoother than 2nd and 3rd

Finding neutral when shifting from 1st to 2nd is something that can happen (on any bike), as can finding a false neutral between any gears so i wouldn't be too concerned at a once off. If the bike is under heavy acceleration between 1st and 2nd you need a sure foot when changing gear. 

Monitor the situation and check if it is happening only when high revs (if so try being more assertive with the gear change). If it is happening often then you should get it checked.

6 hours ago, coachluciano said:

All you guys spending money to make the sun go away. I’ve been begging for it to come out for the past 2.5 months. I’d actually pay for sun glare at this point.  Spring is close. 

4 hours ago, betoney said:

Yes, you are correct.  It came with 2 screens, I painstakingly followed the directions and neither of them worked, it was almost like smearing a light coating of grease on the screen, out of focus.  🤬

6 hours ago, bugie said:

I've been running their anti-glare screen. I live in the Mediterranean and this screen has been awesome. Completely removes the suns glare and still keeps the dash completely readable.

 

 

The anti-glare should have still been crystal clear to read, That pic is with the screen protector covered in dust and dried rain particles

I've been running their anti-glare screen. I live in the Mediterranean and this screen has been awesome. Completely removes the suns glare and still keeps the dash completely readable.

Sorry I just realised i was mistaken @SortedGT

11 hours ago, SortedGT said:

Right. Seems that V-TUV203 is the Euro4 compliant, welded in baffle/damper as supplied by Yamaha and fitted to my bike.

V-TUV142 is the one as supplied direct from Akrapovic in the aftermarket system which doesn't need to be Euro4 compliant so it can be removed/refitted and bolted back in at will. See schematic below. 

https://www.carpimoto.it/Images/Products/Pdf/S-Y9R3-HAFT_Schematic.pdf

The question is. Will it sound any different/better(er)? 🤓

That exhaust was for the pre-GT models.

you could just put some carbon vinyl wrap over it and call it a modification 

The easiest place to start before dismantling the switch is by spraying a good amount of contact cleaner in there

I think we need to separate the forum from FB. As already said there is a wealth of information, and, in general most people on this forum help each other and know each other digitally.

The Tracer FB groups are just a wealth of useless pics and posts which contain no content or useful info. In between boasting there is the occasional joke. On the flipside, at least instagram has nice pics without the bullshit.

My point being we don't need to make this a "more fun" place. The latest trend is that people are actually moving away for the reasons above 

I think adjusting the front suspension is more critical than the back to be honest. At 95kg I currently have the front at full preload and rear around midway. Am not at the correct sag but it's as close as I can get (iirc around 50cm)

2 hours ago, norcal616 said:

Also I kinda suspect some ppl are unknowingly pushing the center stand down with the heel of foot... 

I think you'd know that is happening because it would push your foot up, and, you'll feel vibration through the boot much like you do with the foot peg.

Also, the pic posted by @ChukMcChuk is on the opposite side of the centrestand lever 😜 

I have the same bike and the peg hits a lot earlier than the centrestand. I also weigh 95kg. As said earlier check your compression and preload. The bike might be sitting lower and bottoming up causing the centrestand to hit before the pegs

51 minutes ago, Manivel43 said:

Hi All, 

I am not sure if i can post this particular post in here.

Trying my luck to find out an answer for my problem. My radiator fan turns on only at 105* C (221F) which is supposed to kick in at 100* C (212 F). Sorry, i am from singapore, pardon measurement of Temperature, we measure temperature here in degree Celsius. I find the bike to be very hot before the radiator fan turns on. Is there any solution for me to settle my issue?

 

Thanks in advance

I live in the Mediterranean (Malta). My bike is constantly at 89-95 degrees when moving fasst in summer, and the second you stop moving or hit traffic it hits 100 +. My fan also kicks in at 105 degrees so i think it is normal. The bike radiates a lot of heat meaning it isn't the most comfortable bike for hot climates 

@chesterburnet - I think that video is very flawed in what they consider. If you are talking about head on crashes than yes loud pipes won't save lives but if you consider scenarios where cars are about to pull out of stop signs or change lanes suddenly then loud pipes definitely do save lives. 

After installing my akra (and removing my baffle) i now see people actively looking for me in their mirrors when riding around town or filtering (same for motorways). Since installing it the number of near misses i have has decreased.  This has been true for pretty much any bike i ride.

And let's put it simply, if a driver hasn't seen you in his mirror (with your headlight on), then he probably doesn't know you're there unless he can hear you.