happyrider

In answer to a number of posts as to where my mechanic got the replacement rubber from, sorry but I don’t know. He ordered them through a suppler and I believe they came from Germany, we are in U.K. Cost approx £48 (65$) the set. If you need more info you can Google my mechanic at Mels Motors Bracknell. Sorry I can’t be more helpful. Keith

Following Skip’s helpful post that we had the last clutch plate in the wrong slot, we have removed cover and shifted it on one slot this morning. Must say that I can’t feel any difference whichever slot it was in but it’s good to have it the way the manufacture recommends. Thanks for info Skip. Keith

I agree with Buggy Nate ref angle of the drill bit but I’m guessing that Mel being an engineer and having lots of tools he would have grind the angle onto the bit before use. Plus it’s not necessary to countersink it in totally as the rivet head was raised.

Screws were torqued in and had thread lock applied. Mel is a true hands on mechanic and a very capable engineer so I feel comfortable with his fixing. Time will tell.

Hi, I own one of the first Tracer 900gt’s to come into the U.K. and have done 24k miles. At 15k I started to get the dreaded clutch rattling noise which got worse until recently it is causing vibrations through the pegs and handle bars. So last month I decided to do something about it and Mel at Mels Motors in Bracknell, Berkshire, U.K. agreed to have a look. His fix has been 100% successful and clutch is as quiet as when new. You can view Mels procedure at:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NGUQtvwQUYI&t=3s Two main points is; one he never had to remove any metal by boring rivet holes larger. Secondly it will in future be easy and cheap to replace rubber bushes if need be. Probably a diy job at home. The cost was less than half if I had a new basket fitted. Happy rider (in many ways)

I had one of the first Tracer 900gt in UK which has now done 17,000 miles. The clutch had become very noisy lately, especially when cold. Plus you could feel it vibrating through the handle bars. Yamaha diagnosed clutch chatter and replaced the pressure plate and bearings under warranty. It is now as quiet as when new. Just in case anybody asks I have been biking for 55+ years and no I don’t ride my clutch.

Nope. Wouldn’t know how to do it!

Hi Piotrek, yes I have informed Givi who are urgently looking into it. Being an engineer I decided to get on with it and fix the problem myself. It’s not a package fault but a design error as the drawings show an M19x80mm bolt, the thread depth will only take 70mm. Bugie, ref your request for photos, I can post but the bars look exactly the same as on all the dealer photos.

Received Givi’s new TN2139 bars yesterday and they were just a little bit awkward to fit. Fitting the right bar - the bolt at the top front was 10mm too long, if I had forced it in it would have damaged the alloy engine block. Had to cut 10mm off bolt (have informed Givi). The rear top bolt needs an extra 3 washers to make bars align comfortably. Washers disappear into bar tubing so can’t be seen. Fitting the left bar - the rear lower bolt which goes through the rear engine mount has to be withdrawn, it can be gently tapped out using a long cross head screwdriver. The engine did not move. I replaced the bolt the other way round with the nut on the left. This makes it very much easier to remove the crash bar in the future. To me they look good, but more importantly they will give lots of protection should I ever have to lay the bike down.

Definitely not stupid. I had I similiar problem on a Fazer 1000 , above 70 mph I had a gentle swagger to front wheel. Spotted new front tyre had been put on wrong way round. Went back, got it changed and problem gone.

Yes I agree with your summoning up Budgie. I will wait for Givi bars. Givi never give dates of launching a new product, they just say in the near future and we will contact you. They never have contacted me in the past so I just watch their website. I have just put fender extender and rad guard on, a friend has just had a stone hole his new KTM rad, it was very expensive.

Fehling have said if I buy and they won’t fit then I can return and get a full refund. That seems very fair. However I have been in touch with Givi and they say they have completed a design for engine bars which are in the process of being manufactured. They cannot send me a picture or price at the moment. I guess I should hang in to see what this one looks like.

Yes they do make crash bars which look very nice but appear to me to offer no protection to the lower side of engine. On the rare occasion when I have had to drop a bike to ground this is the part which gets damaged. The Fehling bars seem to wrap around this lower part of engine giving some protection.

Hi Bugie, I saw that post but for some reason Fenling do not recommend fitting to the gt. I am confused?