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knyte

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knyte last won the day on September 8 2020

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About knyte

  • Birthday 08/06/1969

Personal Information

  • Location
    Edmonton, AB, Canada
  • Bike
    2015 candy red FJ-09

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  • website_url
    knyte.org

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  1. Interesting thread; I found the rears to be a bit 'soft' for lack of a better word, too, not quite squishy - just kind of lackluster. Certainly not unsafe or anything; I can brake plenty short with fronts & rears together. I just attributed this as coming from a completely different bike, a VStrom DL1000 - I could lock up the rear any time I wanted. Yet on the FJ, I don't think I've really braked into ABS except once on gravel, and very much on purpose just to see if worked at all. I just flushed all the lines on the weekend, but won't be able to see if that made any difference until spring. When the pads wear I plan on HH front and rear, mostly out of curiosity.
  2. Interesting observations. I've seen them, maybe not these brands, but they looked like they might be bulky or otherwise restrictive. Not so much?
  3. I did this, also. The shift lever was fine with the city boots, but the touring boots have a much fatter toe. One spline up and I'm good in either pair of boots now.
  4. Yep, increase the chain slack a bit. Lots of threads here about suspension (and tires). Since you're a sporty rider you will LOVE that inline triple in no time Windscreen - you will likely want something taller. Then again, maybe you're short enough that it won't bother you, but it's personal preference. Most want to replace it. EDIT: Panniers - wide variety of options. I found touring bags intended for an FJR, but FJ-09's / Tracers use the same mount and bracket. The city bags are too small for what I wish to do with the bike (touring...lots and lots of touring).
  5. The only 'issue', and it was minor, is that one of the front bleed valves was sucking a lot of air past the threads, resulting in a sort of 'straw slurping the last of the milkshake' for lack of a better description. The other front valve and rear valve sucked out the fluid no problem at all, steady and solid stream.
  6. Flushed the brake lines with one of these - pricey, but worth every penny when considering how clean and fast the job becomes. The old fluid was not quite brown, but very close. Likely factory fluid. Also sucked excess coolant from the reservoir.
  7. If anything, it's a bit TOO dark!! ...but barely noticeable, the shade is very close. Not sure if these pics really illustrate it well enough (I'm certainly not concerned): The only exterior difference is the "Made in Japan" area is blank (some markings on the inside are also missing, when compared to the original):
  8. Totally agree. I've seen a few Mazdas with a similar red, and Ford used to have a nice deep, red too. Enjoy the ride!!
  9. Yep, black. Really good match. I have 2" sliders now, mostly for footrests, but should protect the new case too. Yes someday ultimately a cover would be nice.
  10. 100% vanity & pride bone-fixing project. Nothing more. Bonus: coolant change
  11. Yep, WD-40 is the best I've found for removing decal glue residue.
  12. Last fall I had an 'oops' - I was walking the bike backwards, and, as the approach to my garage is neither level nor consistent (mixture of gravel and concrete), I lost balance and it landed on the left side. Because the angle at rest was lower than the where the tires would line up with a ridge of concrete, I ended up kind of grinding the engine cover a bit into some gravel before finding my g/f to help me get it uprighted. Result - scuffed up the engine case. Friends, this is UNACCEPTABLE. I demand perfection! ...and the opportunity to fix my own stupid mistake... Seemed like a good time for an oil and coolant change. The coolant was blue, so probably still the factory fluid. There was a slight metallic 'sheen' to the coolant when I drained it. Not sure if that's normal wear? I plan to drain again in the fall and inspect - it's easy enough and it seems the risk of a vapor lock is low - I just followed the procedure and all went well. New cover and gasket ready to bolt on: Water pump seal replacement (For this entire assembly - stator cover & water pump - there are two crush washers and 5 O-rings that are one-time use and must be replaced if disassembled): All pretty again: Easy enough process, just time consuming. The worst part was lining up the dowel for the gear between the starter motor and the stator. Again, not difficult, just rotated the engine a bit with a breaker bar and it lined right up. There are some short bolts, and some long ones...but it's obvious where they go, you can't get it wrong. Warmed it up to temperature (until the fan cycled on/off) twice. No leaks, although I may have overfilled the coolant reservoir because it vented some out the drain tube. Resources used: Stator cover (ebay) - FAR cheaper than from Yamaha, and clearly aftermarket construction - but all components fit perfectly. Better yet, LOOKS perfect Mission accomplished - 'oops' erased. FZ-09 forum post FZ-09 forum post #2 Imgur photos It took 6 weeks for the associated Yamaha o-rings and crush washers to arrive. Next: Brake fluid flush. Probably still factory fluid.
  13. Books / paper don't care if you accidently fat finger an image, click the wrong thing or obscure your view with an advert, and if your hands are a bit greasy you won't care either because it didn't cost a grand.
  14. I just got the PDF version too, and yeah, it's lacking in similar ways, even though we have different versions.
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